Jump to content
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are a privately owned support forum for the Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels. All information is free to read for everyone. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. Please go over to the Subscription Page and pick out a plan that fits you best. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped. All subscriptions are auto-renewing. 

47 series to 48 series?


retirednak

Recommended Posts

My truck is an early '03 with the 250 hp engine and 47 series transmission. Unfortunately with over 100K miles and turning my Smarty up too high,I have to rebuild my tranny. Does anybody have any idea what it takes to upgrade the internals to the 48 series trans? Someone told me the only difference is the 48 series is fully electronic with the same clutch packs as the 47 series. The stealership told me the 47 series is basically a 727 with an overdrive and is as strong as the 48. Then I was told the 48 series is tougher trans then the 47 by someone else. Not sure what to believe. :banghead: With the later '03 Rams getting the higher output engine and a 48 series leads me to believe the 48 is a better tranny. I see many of the big name rebuilders sell kits to do the trans yourself,which I'm going to try and do. But I'm not sure who to go with. Some places offer more to their kits,plus they all say their kits are the best on the market. Its debatable who has the best trans. So I'm not sure who's kit to go with,or what I really need for the trans to live with me towing and running with my Smarty turned up. I decided to rebuild it myself rather then giving the local shops $5000 +. I also will need a new TC and want to stay with a single,but the same question applies. Whom do I give my money to? Can anybody steer me straight?Thanks-Casey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

I found a guy locally who will rebuild my trans for $22-2400 including the TC. If I want an upgraded valve body it will be on my dime.(I do want) If I member right,he said he uses BD TC and builds the trans to stock specs,but did say he has some tricks,like increasing the pressure,not sure of the other things he does when building the trans. He claims I'll still be able to run my Smarty on any level and pull trailers all day long. He gives a 1 yr warranty,plus I know where he lives.:evilgrin: I'm a little worried about rebuilding without upgraded clutches. The heaviest I will pull will be my full size car on a trailer to the lower 48 and back.This fella works at one of the local Mopar stealerships as the trans builder. I've talked to one guy who just had his trans built by the same fella and is happy so far,but hasn't had a chance to pull his 5th wheel equipment trailer yet.What do you guys think about going back to stock with the upgraded TC and VB? Should I insist on upgrading extra clutches?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found a guy locally who will rebuild my trans for $22-2400 including the TC. If I want an upgraded valve body it will be on my dime.(I do want) If I member right,he said he uses BD TC and builds the trans to stock specs,but did say he has some tricks,like increasing the pressure,not sure of the other things he does when building the trans. He claims I'll still be able to run my Smarty on any level and pull trailers all day long. He gives a 1 yr warranty,plus I know where he lives.:evilgrin: I'm a little worried about rebuilding without upgraded clutches. The heaviest I will pull will be my full size car on a trailer to the lower 48 and back. This fella works at one of the local Mopar stealerships as the trans builder. I've talked to one guy who just had his trans built by the same fella and is happy so far,but hasn't had a chance to pull his 5th wheel equipment trailer yet. What do you guys think about going back to stock with the upgraded TC and VB? Should I insist on upgrading extra clutches?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply. For sure on the VB/TC,since I don't race or pull heavy any longer,I don't think a billet shaft is needed. I'll never see 500 hp out of my truck,I may be lucky to see 400 hp. Only other upgrades I plan on doing are LP and injectors when it needs it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply. For sure on the VB/TC,since I don't race or pull heavy any longer,I don't think a billet shaft is needed. I'll never see 500 hp out of my truck,I may be lucky to see 400 hp. Only other upgrades I plan on doing are LP and injectors when it needs it.

Hp doesn't have anything to do with them breaking as I said they have been known to break on 100% stock rigs. Any towing is enough to break them its just the unkown that it helps prevent. 600-700 extra now could save you another 2500 down the road.:2cents: Why is there such a misconception that billet shafts are only needed when towing heavy or for high HP performance?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hp doesn't have anything to do with them breaking as I said they have been known to break on 100% stock rigs. Any towing is enough to break them its just the unkown that it helps prevent. 600-700 extra now could save you another 2500 down the road.:2cents: Why is there such a misconception that billet shafts are only needed when towing heavy or for high HP performance?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Intermediate shafts usually only break with high hp and drag racers. Tail or output shafts can break also but usually due to high hp or some sort of abuse but OP shaft can be easily replaced without removing the tranny. just a bout a 3 hour job if its 4wd even less if 2wd. Input shafts are the most common failure and when they break it requires most times a torque converter rebuild or replacement as the shafts can splinter and cause all sorts of debris inside the converter and tranny some are clean breaks too, one never knows either way its a total teardown of the tranny to fix and replace. My opinion is its cheap insurance to do it right the first time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I just finished building my 48re with everything upgradedi had the 47re. just wanted the bigger planets, bigger drum, etc..If i didn't put a billet input in i would be worried about it all the time. plus risk of wrecking the billet TCThe billet input i used BDs

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...