Jump to content
  • Welcome Guest To Mopar1973Man.Com

    We are a Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel forum. We are very friendly and helpful group of Dodge Ram Cummins owners. We will try to keep your truck running the best we can and provide information for diagnostics, repairs and even guide you on the best replacement parts to use. 


    Registration is free. Registering on the site will provide access to many more things like...

    • Contribute to the Forum being able to ask questions and get support for your Dodge Ram Cummins.
    • Contribute to Article Database adding your ideas and suggestions.
    • Classified Ads posted by the members. Post up your used parts and vehicles.
    • Member Garage where you can proudly display your vehicles and modifications that you have done to them.
    • Download files, documents, and Quadzilla Adrenaline tunes for your truck.
    • 911 Support Network. We've got a group of members will to aid you if your truck breaks down on the road.

Sign in to follow this  

Steering Box Replacement /w/ Pics

Recommended Posts

This was my leak found where the pitman arm attaches to the box. [ATTACH]22[/ATTACH]First strap your steering wheel to something like the seat so it can not move.[ATTACH]23[/ATTACH]Losen your hoses and make sure to put a pan under the truck. Make sure to replace the o-rings on any fitting that was opened. This pic shows both hoses gone due to a leak in my return hose that needed replacing.[ATTACH]24[/ATTACH]Loosen the pinch bolt on the steering column shaft coupling that attaches to the box. Getting this back on with a remanned box can be difficult if the teeth are buggered up...use some grease. I had to line the flat side up in the right spot and tap it on with a hammer. Once it got started I placed a long screwdriver or prybar on the back of the coupling and smacked it with a hammer or hand sledge.[ATTACH]26[/ATTACH]This part included cranking the 32mm nut and lock washer off of the bottom of the pitman arm and renting a pitman arm puller from the auto store. I had a 1.5" breaker bar inside a 3" cheater pipe for the 32mm nut. This works well if you don't have an impact wrench. I believe the nut should go back on with somewhere in the neighborhood of 200+ ft/lb of torque. Place the puller as shown. It took quite a bit of force to get the pitman arm off and some smacks with a big hammer. I thought I was actually going to break that puller. When you are installing the new box cut a 2x4 the height of the position where it is to be installed and place the box on top of the 2x4 to help hold the weight while you line up the bolts. I would not tighten hard any of the 3 bolts until all 3 are through the frame.Hope this helps someone. Doing this myself saved me somewhere near $780






Edited by wennis1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this