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    PCM Ground Splice Repair

     

     

    It's not hard and took very little time to do. 

    NOTE: Do this after the other modifications have been done or you will lose the ECM, VP and grid heater grounds. 

     

    You need:

    2 10-12 gauge butt connectors 

    2 1/4 heat shrink tube 2" long

    Rosin core solder 

    140 watt solder gun (Weller) or small butane torch

    1 roll of electrical tape

    Razer knife

    Wire cutters

    Wire striper

     

    Remove the air cleaner housing this will open up the whole area to work in.

    No need to disconnect the batteries, just unplug the gray connector at the ground wires of the right (AUX) battery. The other gray connector may have already been disconnected when the ground wires were relocated to the back of the timing cover if a W-T .

    Disconnect the 3 plugs at the PCM

     

    IMG_3650.JPG.9b058a1be2fe29e6c694f6b51f085941.JPG

    Cut and strip the 8 gauge wire then cut the connector off the 10 gauge wire and strip it back to fit the butt connector.

     

    IMG_3651.JPG.be520e0ef602c8ff2eb7c5abdf693c17.JPG

      This is the connection with the cove off.  This is splice #S109 that the grounds for the ECM, PCM, VP44, grid heater relay and data link connector.

     

     

    IMG_3652.JPG.601c14654dfddd62d4beb9e85995e8bc.JPG

    Slide the heat shrink on to the wire were it won't be affected by the heat of soldering. Remove any plastic covering on the butt connector; insert the wires into the connector and solder.  Let cool then cove with the heat shrink.

     

    IMG_3643.JPG.6688f72626e3fc9056e2a30e49bfc81a.JPG

    At the PCM find the two 14 gauge black with tan stripe wires.  They go up into the split wire cover about 10" that's                                                                               where you'll find splice #S126

     

     

    IMG_3647.JPG.d0fddb55677129530bbcf6bb77d2c81c.JPG

    There are two 14 gauge black with tan strip wires coming down to the connector. One is the ground for the data link connector and the other is not used.

     

     

    IMG_3648.JPG.64be1a7d58d66f7dd52a1d56e75bf47c.JPG

    Repeat the cut, strip and solder process as above.

     

     

    IMG_3653.JPG.f9fcdaa8f6d8c3a75b1de0ab012783d7.JPG

    When done it should look like this.

     

     

     

    There are no warranties implied or expressed.

     

    Written by:

    J. Daniel Martin

    AKA IBMobile

    2/29/2020

    • Like 3
    • Thanks 3

    User Feedback

    Recommended Comments

    whitzach

    Posted

    I'm not sure what you mean by,

    Do this after the other modifications have been done or you will lose the ECM, VP and grid heater grounds. what modifications are you referring too ? I have done the the modifications behind the timing cover if that's what you are referring too ?

     

     Thanks,Whitzach

     

     

    • Staff
    IBMobile

    Posted (edited)

    This is repairing the ground splices, not the ones at the back of the timing cover, that go to the right side battery.  This was missed in the W-T modification.  It is an extra repair step in improving the deficient Dodge wire harness. 

    You may also look into adding an inline fuse to the blue wire that goes from the alternator to the PCM for PCM protection.

    https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/alternator-and-pcm-protection-r617/

    Edited by IBMobile
    • Thanks 2
    whitzach

    Posted (edited)

    Thanks much for the quik reply !!

     

    Whitzach

    Edited by JAG1

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