To start with make sure you have the supplies to complete the install:
1. Wire crimpers and strippers
2. Wire connectors
3. Gauge pod for the steering wheel
4. electrical tape
5. Add-a-circuit fusible tap
6. Tons of zip ties
7. Wire connectors with a round end for a screw or bolt
8. Two sided tape (Usually comes with gauge mount)
10. Sockets, screwdrivers, dikes, razor blade
Next the install!
1. Take the front knee board off and set it to the side without losing the screws
2. Run the wires for the fooler through the gauge pod
3. At this step you can either use the supplied glue to hold the fooler tight against the mount, or you can do as I did and add a bit of tape around the edge so that it fits tight and stays in place well.
4. Attach some two sided tape to the sides or the top of the mount. I recommend the sides because the top will lift the mount and make it look goofy.
5. Tilt the steering wheel all the way down and carefully slip the mount over the top of the adjuster. As you pull it down make sure you pull the edges out so the two sided tape doesn't get caught and ripped off.
6. Pull the wires around the back side so that they fit comfortably.
7. At this point route the wires that go to the air intake temp sensor and engine temperature sensor out through rubber with the wiring harness. Zip tie the wires to the steering column wires.
8. Cut away some of the white sheath to the hot and ground wires. Run the hot wire around the back and up to the fuse panel on the side of the dash. Attach this wire to the add-a-circuit fusible tap.
I inserted the fusible tap into the #14 slot which is the 10Amp Cluster B. This has power full time. Really any of the links can be used, but I wanted my light to be on full time so that I wouldn't forget to shut it off.
9. Now attach the Wire connectors with a round end to the ground. I bolted this to the metal frame under the dash. It can be screwed anywhere it will ground effectively.
10. Now to the outside. Run the wires across the top with the existing wiring loom and zip tie them into place
11. Run the wire that goes to the engine temperature sensor (The longer wire) down to the grid heater wire, to the injection pump wires, around the front of the engine and plug it into the sensor.
12. Now run the wires back to the intake air temperature sensor. This is near the back of the intake plenum AFTER the MAP sensor. I zip tied the original connector to the existing loom to keep it from moving.
13. Cut all of the zip ties and inspect to make sure there won't be any rub spots.
14. Put the knee board back on and test it out.
** Let me know if I left anything out so I can edit it in!