2nd Generation Dodge 12 Valve Powertrain

Hello again all mopar1973man members and friends. I've been away from the forum for a good little while as I was traveling for work and had.....a few accidents with ok cummins:duh:first one was in November, during hurricane sandy I had been staying at a friends house all day because I lost power around 2pm. I was driving home around 10 at the peak of the storm and encounter many re routes due to trees down. It's only about a 10 minute ride home. Long story short I was about 2 minutes from home, going around a blind curve at 30mph.....needless to say I couldn't stop before the tree Laing across the entire road. My truck suffered severe damage that would have totaled it. Bu…

I have been digging and digging and everything I read contradicts itself so I want to get a discussion going on this. There is a formula for efficiency that states that a higher compression ratio equates to a higher efficiency percentage. However, we all know the truck pull guys are running no compression and enough boost to top your air compressor at home. Then we have nascar guys running 14:1 gassers. Now the main point of discussion is 4 core things. Effective pressure and density/temperature/pressure at TDC compression. Effective pressure is the theoretical compression ratio you would have when running a turbo. Meaning an engine with 18:1---0psi boost has the s…

So I put a manual boost controller (basically, an adjustable boost elbow, only located in a different spot) on my '97.My 97's HX35 WGA gets its boost signal from the AFC "T" port, rather than the compressor housing's elbow.Without it, I see about 20-22psi under load, max. With it, in full boost adjustment, I get MAYBE 25psi..I also tried pinching off the WGA's signal hose, and it made no difference.With a #100 plate, full-forward, shouldn't it:A: smoke hard under off-boost conditions when the pedal is mashedB: make 30+psi boost under full load, like say, a 30mph roll, flatten the pedalI get neither of these conditions.. It'll mildly smoke under full-throttle stomps, a…

Seems to be some confusion around other parts of the interweb so I will go into full blown detail and end it all. Diesels technically need an air to fuel ratio (A/F) of only 14.5:1 to have enough to burn all the diesel, however, in practice this ratio needs to be around 18-24:1. Even higher ratios are sometimes needed to stomp the EGT back down where it belongs. But the misconception is that boost is everything and nothing else matters. Although I said 18-24:1, I will use 18 for this entire article to keep from writing the entire 18-24 bit. Just remember that this is only for an example as ratios over 18 are needed quite often. Using 18 parts air, we are left wit…

Ok, so for the past couple of months now, I've been driving intermittently, with a howling sound, accompanied by an occasional clunking, driving at speeds over 40, 45 mph. Straight line driving, turning didn't seem to make a difference. I've got the EMS offroad kit on the front of my 96 3500, with Warn manual lockouts, and I suspected the bearings. here is the sequence of events of what I replaced.1. Inner and outer wheel bearings and races. Stubshaft Ujoint (no difference)2. Spindle bearing and seals. (no difference)3. Inner and outer wheel bearings and races (again) (no difference)4. Spindle bearing and seals. (no difference)Now, after all of this, and playin…

[ATTACH]5061[/ATTACH]Probably fine, right? :spend:I think I put 4 gallons in (in 100-150 miles) before a friend gave me the good idea to clamp the breather hose shut and vent through the filler cap. That bought me 100 miles using only a quart or so. 50 miles after that it started running on 5 with 100 miles left to go and took 2 gallons again. I got home with the light coming on again, and I guess enough to blow it through the filler neck. When it dropped to running on 5, it was acting like an exhaust valve wasn't opening. HARD, slow crank. Barely got it restarted. I stalled it parking and didn't try hard but once it's cold I doubt I'll get it to run again in its current …

While replacing the tranny lines took a closer look @ front rotors! Sever heat stressed & cracked. Q?s I believe the original rotors & Hubs non ABS. So Take hub & rotor off @ same time by the socket on back of hub bolts & use power sterring to press off? Seperate both once off truck & press out wheel studs? On the new hub & rotor, can the rotor be mounted on hub for easy removal of ROTOR only for future replacement i.e. anti sieze all hub & rotor mating surface & hub to axel surface? What are the best hub & rotors for Tow/Hall aplication, tempkin & drilled/slotted zink coated rotors... NAPA premium H&R ....or? Has anyone swaped …

i just picked up my first Cummins. 1996 Cummins 12 Valve with 233k Miles. Mechanically sound Body is hell. But i bought a southern 96 1500 for the body im about 7grand into this project, Well i was driving the cummins home from work today, Stopped at a light took off fine got to about 45-50Mph It didnt feel like the trans slipped, Felt more like it just changed gears my rpms went a high, More so it felt like i hit the OD button the dash then it went back to normal and my rpms went back down, It did this twice in a row then was fine for the rest of the 25min drive home. I even messed with it driving, Shifting it in and out slow speed high speed, I got on it hard. I know th…

I found this pdf by garrett and although our turbos aren't water cooled, it does teach you a lot. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/sites/default/files/Garrett_White_Paper_01_Water_Cooling.pdf On the 5th to last page they show an oil slinger groove, one that was fine and one that was overheated. Mine looked just like the overheated one yet this was before I had ever ran over 35psi. Before I had it, it was a completely stock hotshotter truck. I always let it idle a long time if I had ran it hard and turned it off at 300F. Soo...what gives! What do you guys think caused it? Is 35psi actually too much for an HX35? We know they are all wastegated …

Have a 47re (truck in sig) need to replace All tranny lines. Would like to go all screw in fitting, no OEM plastic coupeling ?$@%. Anybody know a one stop shop for fittings &lines. Thanks Dave i.e. tranny to torque tube cooler to air cooler & return to tranny. Tube & air both have the plastic TAB coupeling.

I'm getting bad chatter in full lock after I moved the fuel plate, adjusted the starwheel and turned in the smoke screw. I was hoping that if I drove easy I could avoid this. It's hard to feather the skinny pedal to avoid it. I backed off the starwheel and think it may be a little better with the slower transition of fast power. I was looking at a Banks billet torque converter and a B-D flexplate. Can someone tell me if I'm on the right track, if there are better brands/compatability/options. Thanks.

Rancherman hit me up asking about how injectors of varying sizes could make any difference when the plunger lift is always the same. Therefore, the same amount of fuel is delivered no matter the injector size, albeit higher pressure for smaller injectors. Which brought up the question as to how they can give higher HP ratings? I seem to be drawing a blank on this today. Anyone got any words of wisdom?

I put new batteries in (Exide 27) a few months ago. The truck has started fine.We've recently been in a cold snap (highs in the upper teens) and the truck often will not start. It is very slow cranking. Very slow, to almost dead. If I put the charger on and set it to 10A, I can wait about 15min and can get it to start. However, it will NOT start and run unless I hold the accelerator pedal down. Once it fires, I have to continue to hold the idle high for about 30-45 seconds before it'll keep itself running.This is more so an issue if I don't plug it in during the night.I have to go out (at work) and start it every couple of hours, otherwise it will not start when I l…

Just did this for the inline 6 http://www.mopar1973man.com/isx97/Charts/Inline6.JPG Going to do it for the V8 now. The top is TDC power/compression the bottom is TDC intake/exhaust and middle is BDC. The same color lines are running mates. So starting at the very top left that green line is #1 and you follow it all the way diagonally down to the bottom of the page then back up to the top right. I know pistons don't move this way but it's neat enough

Unfortunately, it's gallons of oil not of diesel.Started yesterday on a 600 mile round trip. Oil light was coming on as I got to my destination in Newburgh NY and I added 5qt. It had last been topped off ~1100 miles ago. I added a gallon when I got back to Rochester 300 miles later. I saw the oil light flash at me one more time after a bunch of idling and ~30mi of around town running after that, I'm REALLY hoping that was a fluke. It usually it has relatively high consumption, adding up to 1-3qt/1000 miles, but this is pretty unheard of.It's an external leak. The bottom of truck and trailer are well rustproofed again. Very very little on the bottom of the hood so it's not…

Across the internet, the common myth is that the retarding notch is never used on a stock truck unless you do the rack plug mod (you'll see what I mean by this if you don't already know) which lets the rack go further and into the retarding notch. Because of this, people say never to do the rack plug mod on 215 pumps. The problem with the notch is that it retards timing at high RPM for emissions reasons. Retarding timing at high RPM has its own drawbacks though, including high EGT and less efficient burn and stuff. With that said, the 215 pump not only gets to the retarding notch, but is ALWAYS in it. In fact, the few people who did the 215 rack plug mod …

I'll cover your room & board, and lotsa good grilling/smoking cow and pig... :)Just bring your specialty tools for timing and such.. I need your 12V expertise..

Ok, I need help. I can't get a hold of EMS to ask them, so I'm coming here, to see if any of you have experience with manual locking hubs on a D60. Ever since I had to pull my hub apart to replace the bearings, I've had a howling sound at 40mph and faster, with an occasional knocking sound. I've pulled the hub off, replaced both the inner and outer bearings and races, replaced the spindle bearing and seals tonight, and yet it's still howling. The only two things I can think of right now is that either my stubshaft is bad, which I have a hard time believing right now, or my bearing preload is all jacked up. Problem is, I've seen so many different opinions on how to se…

Bust a pressure line on the trans while backing out of the driveway. That's how I did it.. LOLSaturday afternoon was spent spreading and cleaning up about 120lb of dry-sweep. :banghead:

I am a newb to diesels. Truck runs great and has a new 12V motor in it. I have searched many forums looking for similar issues. It doe not act fuel related...Here is my issue....Drove it to the store and when I came out to start it, the engine would only run with the starter cranking and would die when the key went back to the run position. However, when I gave it some pedal, then the truck stayed running when the key was returned to the run position. Truck seems to start normally a day later. The issue I have is when I let off the throttle, the idle will stay high for a moment (1100-1200 rpm) before it drops to normal. It does not matter if the truck is in drive, park or…