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dennhop

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dennhop last won the day on October 20 2014

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About dennhop

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    Indiana

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  1. dennhop

    dennhop

  2. Took the words out of my mouth! "Hey ya'll, I'm Batman!"
  3. Lol, nope...more of a albino, haha! Got rid of my 96 a few years back...with all the mods, it was getting harder and harder to keep running correctly. Sold it and ended up buying the white 03. It was a well done auto to manual conversion, completely stock except a South Bend dual disc clutch. I've since added a harbor freight 12k winch, which I needed originally for pulling for cutting trees down on a property, an Unagoose goodeneck hitch and most recently an Airdog 100. Not planning on going overboard anymore, just keep it in good running order.
  4. I did try the contact info...figured I'd do it through the site, really felt bad calling you direct...some sort of bug wouldn't let the contact form work for me...but that was a few iterations ago now. Really like what you did with the place!
  5. Hey all, been a while! Got shut out for a few years, lol, couldn't seem to figure out how to get back in- finally did, and I figured I'd drop in and see how things were going! Hmmmm...looks like I need to edit my sig again...
  6. The problem with most of your filters is the difference between filters designed to be oiled, and filters designed to be dry. IIRC, most, if not all of K&N's filters are designed to be oiled. It boils down to physics. N a naturally aspirated engine, air flow is pulled past the air filter at low pressure, so oiling the element will trap the dirt particles within the filter, and they will stay there until then filter finally plugs up, because there's not enough suction to pull them through the filter element. When you add a turbo to the intake, the higher pressure suction is now taking those same oily dirt particles and because its a much higher suction pressure, it wil quickly (in comparison to the naturally aspirated engine) pull those dirt particles through the filter element. Because its oiled, then dirt particles don't have the opportunity to fall out of the filter, and are trapped against the filter element, meaning as soon as the element starts to wear out and spread, more particles are now bing pulled through the filter.
  7. Entertaining, didn't watch the whole thing all the way through, but one part disturbed me,first winch in the video, whoever was filming it was standing next to the winch line and at one point stepped over it...I sent see any weights or blanket on the line, and you never get that close o a line under tension unless you absolutely have to...and the person filming didn't have to, it was a bad decision on their part, and no one else caught it and told hem to back away before it happened...
  8. The Scanguage II can read rail pressure. I've got an 06 Megacab also I just bought, and with the xguage function, you can read rail pressure with it. I know this is an old thread, but figured I'd post in cases anyone was still wondering.
  9. Does anyone have an electronic copy or know where to find one? Need one tonight or tomorrow if possible
  10. This is the style camshaft locking tool I used, worked fine for me. I may hang onto this one, in case I need it for my Jetta, but I found it for about $80, vs the miller tool which from what I gather is around $900 right now....
  11. BTW, I used a Standt 190 tstat, in the upper hose coming off the factory tstat housing. Put a clamp on both sides of it, and never had an issue with it. Worked great, and I left the old one alone, as its a fail open design.
  12. Couldn't send a pm... I've attached a few pages to show the cost of the tools I do have, and then listed what I would like to get...asking about 50% of what I paid new. Unfortunately, I don't have the actual cam locking tool, but the one I did buy was a generic one, that worked...I'll dig it out of the toolbox and take a picture of it for you. Let me know if what you think of the pricing, and I'll hit you up later... www.toolsource.com VM1053 for $30 VM1052 for $22 www.handsontools.com VM9660 for $30 The flash programmer, if Keith will unlock it, for $100,
  13. Let me figure out total cost of the stuff, and I'll throw a price out to you.
  14. I have a generic cam locking tool, not specific to the Jeep, as I couldn't find the jeep one anywhere when I needed it. Let me know what Keith says, im pretty sure I could wipe it and you could use it...had to leave the tune on the Jeep, to keep the CEL off, as I'd deleted my Egr tubes and fcv valve, lol. Didn't want the dealer figuring that out.
  15. If you're interested, I have the GDE tuner box, I'd let go fairly cheap, as well as the cam locking pins and timing belt tensioner tool.
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