Rogan

"backfeed" as in after pcm repair? or tag 12V fused at 5A to the blue wire?

so are they 12V triggered, or ground-triggered regulation? I mean, which toggles for voltage regulation during operation?

So it is not 'externally' regulated (like an old dodge or ford regulator). It is internally regulated, just like 99% of the GM alternators.. I know what you're getting at, Mike, but it's still not worth the additional expense to replace or repair the PCM in this particular vehicle, unless it's a repair that I could do, myself.. If this were a $8000 road-use truck, then yeah, I'd definitely look at repairing/replacing the PCM. But it's not, by any stretch of the imagination.

Because it's a farm truck that never leaves the farm, it's my old totaled truck (nv4500 24V). It's not worth a 6-900$ PCM. BTW, the mod to one-wire sits voltage at 14.5V, rock-solid. Regardless if I turn everything on, stick jumpers to a dead tractor, etc.. So it definitely works as I intended.

Let me see if I can find the pic when I bought my 01 QCSB 6 speed and towed it home.. You thing THAT's bad?

Here's it installed to what I THINK is gonna be proper. Orange is going to F+, Green to F-, White to 12V, Black is Ground.

Hey, guys. I've already converted my 12V truck to the 1-wire setup (technically, it's 2 wires, but w/e..) Started on the '01 today and realized quickly that the alternators are not the same LOL The internal regulator mod is pretty straight-forward, at least, on the dual-tab style alternators. But the plug-in connectors, the internals look way different. I've searched and searched to try and figure out where the field wire connectors inside the later style are, but to no avail. I only seem to find early 2G style, or or really old Mopar v-belt styles; neither do me any good.. Thoughts? I can grab a couple pics shortly.

FYI, upon clicking the link::

Yep, leave it out.

Just remove the spacer altogether. It's about 1/16" thick spacer between the flywheel and crank-end, with a lip around the edge. It'll often stick to the end of the crank and appear as part of it. It is not needed in the Valair/SB clutch set. Manual case swap is fairly straight-forward. I haven't gotten the truck back from him to complete the electronics portion (right now, truck dash lights up 4WD Service light, because nothing's plugged in to the OE electrionic control harness for the tcase. But everything is functional from a 4wd/2wd perspective. You'll need to cut a hole for the 4wd shifter. and the pocket in the floor console gets popped out and the 4wd boot plops right into place (at least, on the 08-09 truck, it does.)

This truck is in need of a lot of catch-up care.. LOL It leaks oil out of orifices I didn't even know it had. So far, the running diags are as follows: ECM repair/replace AC noise check Rear main seal Front main seal Oil pan gasket Tappet cover reseal Full Exhaust replacement Clutch assembly (original has 382K miles) rocker adjustment Valve cover gasket Gonna be a fun one...

I thought the HYs were only on the autos.. I had 2 01s, one auto , one 6 speed. Auto had HY35, the 6 speed had the HX..

On 2G trucks, I tend to mount them behind the front bumper on the left side, tucked up by the outer bracket; tends to work well there. Very nice job on the 3G, @Dynamic

Yeah, I'm sure you know, but the 2002 1/2 tons were new body style (3G). It always confused me, for the longest time. I've got a 2001 at the house that needs a resistor and blower right now.