Rogan

This truck is in need of a lot of catch-up care.. LOL It leaks oil out of orifices I didn't even know it had. So far, the running diags are as follows: ECM repair/replace AC noise check Rear main seal Front main seal Oil pan gasket Tappet cover reseal Full Exhaust replacement Clutch assembly (original has 382K miles) rocker adjustment Valve cover gasket Gonna be a fun one...

I thought the HYs were only on the autos.. I had 2 01s, one auto , one 6 speed. Auto had HY35, the 6 speed had the HX..

On 2G trucks, I tend to mount them behind the front bumper on the left side, tucked up by the outer bracket; tends to work well there. Very nice job on the 3G, @Dynamic

Yeah, I'm sure you know, but the 2002 1/2 tons were new body style (3G). It always confused me, for the longest time. I've got a 2001 at the house that needs a resistor and blower right now.

Yeah, I can buy a lot of additional lights for 1000$. lol $1000 my be like: or

Wow, you couldn't find a black zip tie? haha!! what gauge pod is that, on the dash? I like it.

This 08 3500 6.7 I've been working on, got a new set of injectors last spring at 108k mile mark. I will warn those that have CRs and are looking to buy injectors.. STICK WITH BOSCH OEM/REMAN buy REPUTABLE builders (I solely use Antrim Diesel in PA for all injector and pump repairs/replacements.) $25-2800 for a set of injectors is outrageous, even from my perspective. Built a 5.9 CR for a guy's 05 2500, $6000 build and installation. He bought Advance Auto replacement injectors after being suggested not to.. 685 miles on the engine, and BOOF... Injector failure wiped #2 piston and cylinder and valves.. AAP warrantied the faulty injector only. $3500 more to the shop so we could fix his engine.. So in 3 weeks, a poor decision cost him a little better than $12K.

So, I finished the transfer case swap in my friend's 08 3500 MC this past weekend. Basically, the reason for it was I replaced the chain, gears, seals and bearings in it a year or so ago, due to what we thought was slippage of the chain. Problem disappeared for about 3 months, then returned. Only this time, it came back with a vengeance. What was actually occurring was the electronic shift motor was attempting to engage 4WD at whenever it felt like it. Last time, it was at about 70mph when it tried to switch to 4WD, all but grenading the tcase into dust. So I Got my hands on a really good priced NV271F (Yes, Ford). Ripped it apart, freshened the bearings, seals and chains, etc, then started determining what I needed to change for it to work in the Dodge G56/5600. Dodge mainshaft is longer in the nose than the Ford. Input stub shaft (that sits in the planetary gearset) needs swapped (dodge one has a longer nose and a deeper bearing race.). Rear output shaft housing needs swapped; Dodge uses slip-yoke, Ford uses flanged rear output. Front shaft output flange needs swapped to the Dodge one; the Ford one bolts to the front driveshaft the opposite direction, so it won't work. Aside from that, you could swap the shift fork carrier, but I didn't as the Dodge one was destroyed, so I went with the Ford selector shaft. The Swap works great, But there's a couple of oversights.. I used a Dodge 2004 1500 tcase shifter (it's same as all 3G trucks) and 2004 shifter boot; the boot fits perfect and is same as 2007; just pop the pocket out of the console and the boot snaps right into place. HOWEVER, the Ford's shift (top to bottom) is 2H-4H-N-4L. Dodge is 4H-2H-N-4L. So the pattern on the knob is wrong, and I can't find anything else to show the proper pattern. If I owned a 3D printer, I'd make one, but I dont. The Ford knob is a slip-on splined knob, where Dodge is a thread-on. I also need to figure out the shifter motor wiring for the 2008. It's an 8-pin plug, but uses 5 pins. The Ford uses a standard 2-pin 4WD switch. Current issue is that "SERV 4WD" is illuminated on the dash, and the 4WD light does 'not' work (for obvious reasons). I think they are controlled by the PCM/ECM, so with the motor no longer present, I have to see if I can find out/figure out how to 'fool' it. Thanks! Rogan

Good lookin truck. You’re askin a lot out of those skinny tailgate cables 😛

Understood. The pcm (from a regulation standpoint) is completely out of the circuit. The evr is located by the airbox on the firewall, next to the hood hinge. I’ll get him to drop the truck off maybe next week so i can get a closer look at what’s really going on. This megacab im swapping to a manual tcase is also his, so when it’s done I'll get his other truck. I’ll test the AC noise too, but it may just be the evr took a dump. I’d love to go back to the pcm regulation but that may require a new pcm; not 100% sure yet.

Mornin' fellas. Out of curiosity, how would AC voltage cause an overcharge issue? I totally get how it can affect signal issues for things such as TCC, and all, but to cause overcharging? Not disputing it, just curious of the thought process as to 'why' it would..

Truck belongs to a good friend of mine. A couple years ago, he had an overcharging problem. Since the PCM (I think) controls the charging, he wanted me to throw an external voltage regulator (EVR) on it to 'get by for awhile'.. Well, it worked fine for a year or so, and now he told me yesterday that it'll peg the voltage gauge and ding the check engine chime. the fuel gauge, he said, will often drop to empty for a few seconds, then return to normal, but doesn't seem consistent with anything else.. Are we at a point where he should look for another PCM? Or has anyone seen this type of issue before? Thanks, all.. Rogan

that welder must be heavy AF. truck looks like it's bowed in the middle. Possibly just camera angle. Nice looking non-dually, though. I'm here for the dually.

Exactly my point on you gaining any benefits from a larger diameter exhaust. 65K mi a year? and that truck only has 350k on it?