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Everything posted by Rogan

  1. I'll take a look, but I doubt there are any. On that note, I've only ever seen a max of about 21psi, but I'm not sure what the 6spd max boost is, anyway.
  2. 21SEP, as stated a few posts back, I replaced the air filter. Injectors are new Bosch with < 2000 mi on em. Matter of fact, the entire engine is < 2000 mi. I was surprised, too, with the fuel economy (or lack of) that low. I miss the days of my '96 12V 5spd getting 27mpg @ 68mph lol
  3. Week later, still good.. 70mph, 750-775F, 13ishK rail pressure, zero boost. 14.5mpg.. UGH.
  4. cool cool. thanks for checking! Question: with that high of rail pressure and EGTs, would that contribute to less MPG? I was getting 15-16 on a highway trip 200mi, at 70 on cruise.
  5. Hey, John.. So.. UPDATE.. My OEM intake tube was all cracked and full of holes in the rubber pieces, so I bought a "cold air intake w/filter" for an interim fix. I threw my GoPro under the hood for S&Gs and pointed it to the air filter.. Low and behold, the filter was sucking closed rapidly.. So I ran down and grabbed a 4" inlet K&N (again, this is a temp solution, as I'm trying to source an oem intake pipe so I can reinstall the stock airbox) and swapped the filter.. the truck seemed a tad more responsive, throttle-wise. Took it back out onto the same stretch of road I was on when I went to pick up the new filter... Mind you, on the way back from getting the new filter, with the old one still in place.. 60mph, 0psi boost, 1100F, 15k rail.. After the filter swap, same section, 60mph, 6th gear as before.. 0psi boost, 700F EGT, ~12k rail pressure.
  6. I just stuck gauges in my 07.5 DRW. I noticed on flattish ground at 70mph, 6th gear (G56) I'm at 2150-2200 (3.73) RPM, 900-1100*F, and about 16-18k RP. Boost is zero.. In my old '96, it'd carry about 6-8psi, and about 750-900F EGTs.. Is this normal for a 6.7? No boost, and EGTs that high? It's all stock. Thanks.
  7. Good luck finding a 'deletable tuner'.. I almost did mine, but waited too long. Now all the local/semi-local shops are being eat up with EPA fines and have stopped even selling them.. sucks.. I have 'fixed' my EGR, but I am on stock, OEM everything, including tune... it's still lethargic and I despise the G56. lol
  8. Time Left: 10 months and 30 days

    • WANTED
    • USED

    I need to get my hands on a 6.7L inlet pipe assembly, from turbo to airbox. I don't need the airbox, but I also need the filter reminder thingamabob. I'm in VA, so let me know if you have one in good shape, and how much, shipped.. Thanks, Rogan (Rick)


    Winchester, Virginia - US

  9. View Advert In Search of: 3rd Gen 6.7L turbo to airbox plumbing I need to get my hands on a 6.7L inlet pipe assembly, from turbo to airbox. I don't need the airbox, but I also need the filter reminder thingamabob. I'm in VA, so let me know if you have one in good shape, and how much, shipped.. Thanks, Rogan (Rick) Advertiser Rogan Date 09/20/2021 Price Category 3rd Generation Dodge Ram  
  10. I checked 'em out, but the smallest in the kit was 5mm, which is too big. Advance had 3 o-ring that were the right size, but that's it. I'll try Lowes tomorrow I suppose.
  11. thanks fellas. I believe I have some o-rings that small, somewhere..
  12. I noticed this morning (we had some pretty decent rain yesterday from Ida) that 3/5 of my cab lights are holding about 3/8" of water.. I ASSUME this is coming in through the screw holes, since there are no cracks/etc in the lenses. Is there an availability of small screw washers/seals out there somewhere that you may know of (short of some clear silicone or something)? I don't want this to create bigger problems in the near future. Thx
  13. I don't know if I've had this issue for awhile, or if I just noticed it.. I added a couple 12mm red LED clearance lights under the tailgate, wired them to the plug that's for the tailgate lamp (I dont have the tailgate lamp, just the plug tucked up under the bed). Opened the drivers door, dome lights cam on as usual (LEDs). Key off, Turned on the parking lights, and the dome lights blinked real fast about 5x, then went out. Checked for a bad fuse, and found 15A #16 blown. Replaced it, and did the same procedure with the same result. Disconnected the new LEDs, repeated process, same result.. NOW... Key in RUN position, door open, dome lights on, turn on parking lights, they dont blink or blow the fuse... Turn Key off, repeat process, blown fuse... WTAF?
  14. . I went to get in the truck a little bit ago. Opened the door, the dome lights came on for a sec, then blinked, then went off.. Then I noticed the cargo light wouldn't work, either. Push the button, the cargo indicator on the cluster illuminates, but no cargo light... FSM shows these are triggered by the cluster?? OMFG, I'm so blind. There's a fuse #35,. CCNI
  15. DrawTite Activator IV. I read this last night: If you detect constant 12V power on the blue output wire when the brake is not pressed, then the controller is damaged and must be replaced. If the controller passes these tests, then the problem could be in your connectors or trailer wiring. I ordered a Curt for a replacement.
  16. OK, I'll post pics later (they're on my phone).. But I found the trailer brake wire (it's the one I thought it was, at this plug)..Dk Green. it's sitting at 12VDC all the time. Cut the Lt Blue wire out of the brake controller, and it dropped to 0V at the green wire, but still 12V out on the controller.. Bad/failed controller, apparently. lol
  17. So yesterday, I finally started tackling installing the Mopar "add-on" trailer (7-pin) kit. The reasoning is the PO had some kinda hack-job of a setup.. A busted 7 pin connector, and a piece of 14/2 wire (only using one) ran from the 7 way at bumper, up the driver's side rail, to the plug behind the LF wheel-well. Tapped into a green wire. This is apparently a 12VConstant (green) fed to the brake terminal of the 7-way. WTAF?? So at any rate, the MOPAR replacement with harness is in, minus the blue brake wire.. The new harness has a blue pigtail that is apparently to go to the under-dash somewhere. There's already a trailer brake in the cab, plugged in to the junction block above the clutch pedal. Shouldn't I have access to this wire somewhere underneath the truck? The replacement plug in the bumper connects to the harness by 2 plugs: one plugs into the actual 7-way, and another plugs into the 4-pin OE connector above the class 3 hitch mounting (again, factory). But there's no trailer brake wiring/connector anywhere I can see, at the back. The plug under the LF wheel-well liner, I cannot figure out what connector it is, or its pin-out, by looking at the 08 FSM.. Any help is greatly appreciated. Rick
  18. About 5 yrs-ish. this issue has been about the last 5-6 months.
  19. @AH64ID you got any thoughts on this? Today, I was able to get it to do it climbing a 3%, 5th gear, 60mph, empty, no trailer.. "Ding! See Dealer now" 5 secs later rpms drop and drop.. downshift, try to keep pushing up the hills as there's nowhere to pull over.. this goes on for about 20 secs, then it picks up like nothing happened..
  20. LOL IDK what to tell you; I'm 2:2 on G56 GRO
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