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Everything posted by Rogan

  1. SOMEHOW, fuse 20/21 in the TIPM were pulled (they are joined in a fuse carrier) and were somehow disconnected from the circuit. The U0151 code isn't appearing now. But I still get a long crank, and (most times) need to remote lock/unlock to get the truck to start; otherwise, it just cranks/no start.. Man, the bugs/gremlins you get when a truck sits for extended periods of time.. LOL Thanks, Michael! Rick
  2. So I got my truck back together after 1/2 a yr.. But I get this U0151 (Lost Communication with Restraints Control (RCM) Module) I tried MODIS, and AlfaOBD and cannot connect to it. Tried following some troubleshooting tips on obd-codes.com, to no avail.. I am mechanically and 12V electrically inclined, but the troubleshooting tips made not much sense.. Anyone here seen this issue/fixed this issue, or have any guidance? The Airbag light is on, and I cannot get the truck state-safety inspected until it's fixed.. Thank you. U0151 Lost Communica
  3. Correct, and I'm aware it was a 5.9 pic. But I was unsure if the bays are really any different. I know the 6.7 turbo is alot lower and further back, too. But wasn't sure if the bottles would interchange, that's all. I appreciate your input, as always.
  4. I've seen a few 3G trucks with coolant bottle in the RR of the bay (pass side firewall) and washer fluid in the LF. My 07.5 has the combo bottle in the LF. What denotes the other (separated design) layout vs the combination tank? I ask, because I'd like to separate mine, due to some PTO pump clearances I'm looking to add. If one of you know what particular denotation the separated tanks are (or hell, even PNs), I'd greatly appreciate it. I'm looking to go this separated tank layout. Regards,
  5. Anyone have or have used AlfaOBD? I've seen it work (YT) with 4G trucks, but only heard about it works with 3G trucks. Any substantial knowledge with it for the pre-4G models?
  6. Happy belated, Michael. Welcome to the 50s.. Enjoy the new aches and pains!
  7. So for shitsngigglez, I threw an old block pump inline, tandem the pumps, for a test.. 24psi KOEO 20 psi KOER @ idle 15-16psi @ 1500-2000 Truck still hazing/smoking, though, so I'm guessing a VP is in order, AS WELL AS and AD/FASS pump, and trash the in'tank + block pumps. Thanks for all your input, guys! As always, it's greatly appreciated. edit: he really needs a new tank, too. this one is so distorted; I am guessing due to the vacuum the tank has lived in, over the last 8+ yrs... lol
  8. So what lift pump is your recommendation for an OE truck? As for VPs, I see Scheid has the VP stock for $1200.. From a lift pump perspective, everything I see is 3-600$, then a big line kit, I've not found yet.. I'd assume a 95gph pump like Raptor or FASS would be plenty?
  9. wasn't doubting, just trying to understand the why's and hows.
  10. So here's my question, concerning you saying the demand vs supplied.. If it's a new OE pump, OE lines, truck is 100% stock, how/why would the demand be higher than the supplied, even at idle? I could see it with a hotrod VP pump, etc, but not 100% stock. The tank vent? You mean the rollover valve? That's the only "vent to atmosphere" fitting on the tank assembly, and it's clear and unobstructed. The entire sender/pump assembly is new, so that shouldn't be an issue. The one I replaced had a capped nipple on the RO valve, the new one is opened. My old 01 had a 0216, and i
  11. I'm confused as can be, and this'll be long-winded.. Subject: 1998.5 2500 Cummins 24V 5 speed RCLB 4WD. 115K miles Complaint: He (good friend of mine, and neighbor) stopped by the other day with it poppin', stumbling, hazing, and no power. Also, fuel gauge is not correct, and reads very inaccurately. I checked the FP at the injector pump.. KOEO, 12psi. KOER, idle 10, At 1500rpm, 5-6psi. Fuel filter was changed a few months back, truck's been about 1500 miles since. I could barely hear the in-tank pump (it's had the dodge conversion from block-mounted
  12. I'm going to use the OEM J-hangers from the freightliner, but I have to make new saddle supports. I guess I'll invert them, and where the brackets would normally be vertical on the FL, I'll make that the bottom, against the bed-floor.
  13. I ended up finding a used B&W in great shape, for $150, and ordered a new hardware kit and frame u-bolts from B&W for $40. Thanks for your input, guys!
  14. So I picked up a 70 gallon Freightliner tank for good deal, to use as an aux tank in the truck. I'm now looking into the mounting of said tank. I got the truck's tank straps and mounts, but I don't see a viable option to use these just yet, as far as mounting goes.. The tank is 23D x 41L. Anyone here done this before with a similar tank? If so, pics? Thank ya, Rogan
  15. I'm kinda diggin that... like alot. John, how'd you like that windshield shade? worthwhile? I'm 5'9, so my short *** can see that location really easy..
  16. I bought one, so I'll do a write-up/review, once I get my engine back together. ;) HAH!!! I love how it says "wear safety glasses"...
  17. (for info purposes) BHAF Donaldson Air Filter Primary Duralite- B085011 BHAF = Big Honking Air Filter Brand - DuraLite Efficiency - 99.9% Efficiency Test Std - ISO 5011 Family ECB Rated Flow HR - 469.69 CFM Rated Flow LR - 278.99 CFM Rated Flow MR - 399.06 CFM Restriction HR - 7.99 MM H2O Restriction LR - 4.02 MM H2O Restriction MR - 5.98 MM H2O Style - Round Type - Primary Filter Cross Reference: AC DELCO-A1
  18. I've been looking for pics/videos of people that use/install them to see how it looks, fits, etc, but it's not an easy thing to find (especially in video form)..
  19. UPDATES: Front diff assembly looked fine, no play. fluid was super clean, no metal anything came out. Does not 'pop' when no front driveshaft is in (duh...) Front driveshaft is timed, u joints and cardan joint is fine.. *one* u-joint cap is spinnable by hand, which is odd, but not issue-causing Rear driveshaft is fine, true, not bent, no bad joints (it's one-piece DS) Rear output shaft seal leaks a tad; it's just over a year old, since t-case rebuild. Removed both shafts, removed tailshaft housing and snapring Can't get the case to separate; Permat
  20. 3.55s was a guess.. I found out after the fact that it's 3.73/4.10.. It is a 6MT so it's listed as 3.73. I'll drain the t-case soon, but wanted to test everything else I could before doing that, It's really weird that this same 'symptom' keeps coming back, even with a replacement t-case. I'll drop the front diff cover, maybe today, to see what that looks like.. I don't think it will be a diff, but you never know. It did this same noise before I did the t-case conversion, and didn't do it after I swapped them.. Until now. I also found out that the MCSB SRW is 160.3" wb, and the
  21. So, working on my problem child again.. 2008 MC 3500 SRW 6.7L 6MT 4WD.. Original tcase took a dump, due to a randomly-engaging 4wd motor. Truck has 150k / 6400hrs on it currently. Rebuilt the 273D tcase, replaced all gears, seals, bearings, chain, bushings, etc. shafts were fine. 7 moths later, it **** the bed, with the motor trying to engage 4WD randomly, regardless of speed; switch in 2WD position. Tried sourcing a local 271D and convert to manual shift. Couldn't find a 271D but found a 271F. VERY minimal differences in the two, with one being shift pattern and the other bei
  22. I'm not "brand-religious" (except for Dodge), so I don't care what name is on it, just wanna make sure whatever I get is dependable; be it Draw-Tite, B&W, Curt, Capt. Crunch, idc.
  23. From pictures, the Curt does look to be more 'stamped steel' ish..
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