Rogan

dobie, my RR brake would do this.. It was my cable dragging inside the sheath. I think it was like 20$ or so, IIRC, for that cable. About the same for the LR one, as well, but I only replaced the one.

For $35 a pop, I've always been happy with the Rough Country Nitro 9000 series.. I've ran then on everything from my Rock Crawlers to Mall Haulers. [B]Yr Make / Model Lift FRT RR[/B]03-07 Ram 2500 (Except 8800 GVW) 0 - 3" 9157 9158 4 - 5" 9159 9160 94-02 Ram 2500 (Except 8800 GVW) 0 - 1" 9155 9156 2 - 3" 9157 9158 4 - 5" 9159 9160 http://roughcountry.com/shocks_dodge.html

No idea. At any rate, I drove it into work today. It seemed to run fine. It is funny, however, that a 245/500 Cummins can seem so "weak feeling" after driving my P-pumped truck for so long The throttle response is going to take some getting used to, that's for sure, as it's nowhere near as responsive as the '96. But all in all, it seems pretty decent. Especially considering how 'cheap' I got the truck for, combined with how much I have in it. :tongue:Now, I need to work on the weird-feeling steering. Is seems tight, kinda, almost draggy. with a vague 'return-to-center' after cornering.. But I'll make another thread for that.thanks for all of you guys' help and advice with this issue! I greatly appreciate it!

THat's the wierd part. I examined the tank really well inside, and there was no trash in it.. It musta sucked it all up already LOL

http://www.tsmmfg.com/mico_hydraulic_brake_lock.htm this one isn't the one he's referring to, I imagine, but it's one I looked in to, a few weeks ago.

wouldn't the relay sit "energized" while the vehicle is parked? Just curious. Seems like over a day or so, the drain would be significant, on the battery.

I, too diagnosed last year. Stg 1 follicular thyroid carcinmoa T4a. the GTOs are great cars. My brother has a slightly tuned '05 6spd as well. It's that beautiful blue. That car is definitely a tail-wagger with the ATI ProCharger.

Thanks, Koyote. I'm kinda excited that I didn't (yet) have to buy an injector pump, as initially thought when I bought the truck a couple weeks ago. I don't want to turn the wick WAY up, but I'd definitely like some more 'GO' in it. My 5 y.o. daughter wants me to "put a smoke pipe on it like your blue one". IOW, she wants me to stack it. I might, but I'll definitely keep it a tad quieter than the blue one. It's 4" turbo-back, no cat, no muffler, to a 5" step, to 7" stack. It's friggin' loud. The power steering in the new one is really stiff, like it's low on fluid. I assume it's got a leak, as there's a PS fluid bottle in the cupholder. I'll be doing Mike's vent reroute this weekend, too, eliminating the bottle by the radiator. Then, will be a lift pump replacement of some sort. After that, I'll look into power adders. ---------- Post added 08-05-2010 at 09:02 AM ---------- Previous post was 08-04-2010 at 08:37 PM ---------- Pictures:

Amen to that! (btw, I'm prior service, 67Y, 19K) ---------- Post added at 07:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:51 AM ---------- Ok, so today, I decided to drop the tank, and check out the sock filter.. What a freakin clusterfudge! Apparently, someone with little clue, much imagination, and no money decided to fix something. I'll post pics once I host them (can't upload to the forum yet.) let's see if I can explain it.. They took the feed and return lines from the sender assembly, then siliconed those connections closed (on the assembly.) They then drilled and tapped two 3/8" barbed fittings through the tank's top. One was a 'new' return, and the other was a 'new' feed. Inside the tank, they installed a 'feed' hose from the one barb, down to the bottom of the tank, and installed a small filter. You know, the ones that are about 3/4" diameter, metal, a nipple on one end (inlet) and threaded fitting on the other. And yes, they put it in backwards. Not to mention, a total PITA for servicing. I took the filter off, as I saw some junk in it. I started taping it out onto a paper towel, and you would not believe the crap that came out of it. (picture coming) So, I went to Advance, and dug through the filters until I found one with 3/8" nipples on each end, as well as a couple feet of fuel line, and some fuel injection clamps. $36.87 total, including a Gatorade and some beef jerky LOL For the reinstall, I left the hose inside, lay on the bottom. Moved the pusher pump from inside the framerail (where it was buried behind the tank) to the outside of the framerail. I added the new inline filter to between the tank and pusher pump, then plumbed it all back together, and reinstalled the tank. Turned the pusher pump on, turned the key on, bumped the starter, and watched the pressure go to 27-28psi. Started the truck, and the pressure stayed around 24-28psi.. YAY! Drove it around the block and it stayed above 15, even with a few hard pulls through the gears. I got back home, and left it run for about 5-8 minutes, and the pressure stayed steady at 22-25psi. With it still running, I turned off the pusher pump, and the pressure slowly dropped to about 3psi. Turned it back on, and it came right back up. I think my 'new' Airtex is crap, and won't pull enough fuel, or the pusher pump is too much restriction when off. I can test that tomorrow, by removing it from the loop, since it's now outside the rail, and accessible. I can say, though, that this is a dog, compaired to my '96 p-pumped, #10 plated truck LOL Nowhere near as responsive, either. Afterward, my neighbor across the street (he's got a 98.5 24V 5speed) was talking to me about the truck, and I mentioned that my lift pump is possibly dead. So he says "I have a new in-tank assembly with pump and all the parts for the retrofit, including the manifold piece that goes in place of the lift pump. It's in the garage somewhere. If you want it, you can have it, as I've no need for it now." I'm like "Sure." So anyhoo, I'm gonna tag the truck tomorrow, and drive it to work on Friday (6 mi. round trip) and see how it acts. Only thing I have concern with now, is the lethargic acceleration. But again, that could be due to driving the p-pump truck with it's super-responsiveness and tons-o-power

Same with Royal Purple Synchromax.

Awesome, thank you. I'll definitely check this out tomorrow, weather permitting.

Thanks! I'll be dropping the tank tomorrow (provided it doesn't rain again, but is desperately needed), as he mounted the pusher pump on the inside rail, beside the tank. Don't think he thought that one through ;).. So I'll pop the tank open and check the sock filter while it's down.. Come to think of it, one of my past rock crawlers, a jeep cherokee 4.0L had a stumble/hesitation issue, and it came down to the sock filter in the tank had a single "clean" spot, about the size of a pencil eraser. The rest was completely clogged.. I replaced it, and the Jeep ran fine after that.. Here's what the Jeep's sock filter looked like LOL The only clean spot on it: The Jeep it was in:

I believe my '01 cruise light is green, but I'll verify this evening.. Mine does display the P-PCU and P-ECU codes. ---------- Post added at 07:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:48 PM ---------- I verified my CRUISE light color this evening. It's actually orange-ish, not green, like I first thought. So mine is orange and does display both pcu and ecu P-codes.

Good point on the heat. Not really sure, or even how much heat will be produced. I have the filter, just havent replaced it yet. Gonna try that as soon as it stops sprinkling... ---------- Post added at 06:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:53 PM ---------- Ok, so I ran a few tests. First, I tried the key-on, engine-off pressure test again, both with/without the little pusher pump.. ~20psi, then slowly drops to zero about 10 seconds after LP shuts off.. I replaced the FF and did it again.. This time, it went up to almost 30psi, then settled down to zero after about 20 seconds.. Even engine running, same result.. So I disconnected the LP from the harness and made a power/ground jumper from the battery, straight to the LP. Refired the engine, and had the LP running directly off of the battery. It went from 28psi, slowly down to ~8, paused for a second or two, then rapidly went on down to zero. This is with the pusher pump on, and the LP directly connected to the battery. It started to rain a little, so I had to end my troubleshooting. I want to 'test-fit' the Bosch inline pump in place of the LP with a direct connect to the battery (not using the ECM's LP circuitry) and see what that results in. If it works, yay! I'll monitor the heck out of the FP and 'beta test' that setup for a couple days. If not, then I'll look into dropping the coin on an Airdog or FASS, or the likes.. If the Bosch does sustain for a few days, with no issues, then I'll feel much better about spending the money on a better lift pump. I'm really leaning (at this point) of it being a LP issue, though. Thoughts?

that's it. ---------- Post added at 05:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:12 PM ---------- since you have the carpet pulled back, I'd dry the floor, firewall, and adjacent panels off, then sprinkle talcum powder around the vertical walls, whip out the water hose, close the truck up, and soak the truck down.. You can then check the powdered areas for water trails where (if the leak was elsewhere) it's running in at.. (old VW trick from back in the day, since they tended to leak like a screen door.) OH, and make SURE there are no vertical rises in your newly added tubing, else the water will back up in the tube, and cause the issue all over again..

The Airtex uses the OE wiring. The green POS pump in the rear is wired relay-hot with a toggle switch.Yes, as for fuel pressure, I turn the key to RUN, bump the starter, and the Airtex engages, raising pressure to ~19psi. It runs for about 15 secs or so, then when it shuts off, (engine still off) the pressure immediately falls to ~3-5psi. Once I start the engine, it falls to zero.offroad, your thought process is the same as mine, right now. And I, too, am somewhat of a diesel newb.

Start with the AC drain tube on the firewall. It's most likely clogged up with leaves and debris. My '96 had this issue. I cleaned the pine needles and funk out of it, and was good to go from there.. As for the shifter seal, I got my nv4500 shifter seal from quad4x4.com.. they may have it for the 5600, as well.

Thanks. yeah, it's 100% stock truck. The Mr. gasket Green pump (what he added) is for diesel, and it's wired separately (not in conjunction with the Airtex.) sorry, I didn't point that out in the original post.I'll try to make some jumpers and such, an test the fuel pressure with the Airtex running straight from battery (and not from ECM) this afternoon. I'll report my findings.

This is a great thread. The thought processes that you guys are putting to text are awesome. I'm actually working on a fuel pressure (well, lack thereof) issue on my '01. This one should help me work through it, or at least, make me look at it from different perspectives.

I have a thread on another forum, and m1973m's posts there, led me 'here'.Basically, it boils down to this:On Key-on, I bump the starter. With a fuel pressure gauge on the system, the lift pump (prev. owner replaced the lift pump (with what appears to be an Airtex E7153 or replica), as well as added a [crap] Mr. Gasket #12D inline pump (rated at 5-7psi, 35gph) back by the tank. The LP kicks on, and the pressure slowly climbs from zero - ~19psi. Once the LP kicks off, the pressure immediately falls to ~5-6psi. If I sit anw watch it for a few seconds, it'll bleed off to zero PSI.If I repeat, and as soon as it hits 19psi on prime, if I start it, it will fall to zero in about 5-10 secs. I'm wondering if the LP isn't kicking back on after startup. The relay in the fusebox is tripping on, and I've swapped that relay for a known-good one, as well, with no change in results. Is there a way to 'hot-fire' or 'jumper' the LP for testing purposes, to ensure it's pumping when the truck is running? The 'aftermarket' #12D back in the rear of the truck is worthless, IMO. I have a big inline Bosch pump in the garage, but it flows 255LPH and capable of anywhere between 30-90PSI head pressure, depending on the regulator of the system (the pump itself isn't regulated) and I fear that it may be too much pressure for the VP44.I'm not opposed to buying a FASS or AD or whatever, but I'd rather try all other means to ensure that fuel pressure feeding the VP44 is the problem, prior to dropping 4-600$ on another unit.Also, why would some inline pumps state "not for diesel fuel".. Is it the gasket material or something in them that can't handle the fuel's chemical compound?At any rate, let me know your thoughts on the maximum fuel pressure allowed to the inlet of the vp44, as well as ideas to test functionality of the current (new) lift pump in question.Regards,Rick