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smokeythedodge last won the day on December 28 2010

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  1. Alright, kinda wish I would have taken more pictures, but I was hot and ready to get it back on the road... So here is what I got, perhaps this will help someone looking to replace their own. First things first. Go out and take a look at your Dana 80. Now, I don't have a photo of the other type for comparison, but there are actually two different Dana 80's in the 2001 and 2002 model year. This is important to get the proper seal. For my axle, in a 2001.5 Ram 3500 quad cab 2wd diesel 6 speed, it has the non flanged yoke and the double stepped down pinion shaft seal. Part number is 5015618AB from Dodge... Now the other seal (for the flanged yoke) is 5073944AA... Here is a picture of what a NON FLANGED YOKE looks like. So.. If yours looks like this, you must go with the top seal ending in AB... Now for the required tools..... -Some kind of torque multiplier (Pinion nut is TIGHT) -Various hand tools (sockets and driver to remove the driveshaft) -Craftsman, 2 jaw puller, small one and the large one -24" Pipe wrench or miller tool 6719 yoke holder. I am poor, so I used a pipe wrench..... -1 7/8" craftsman 3/4" drive socket. Details later.... -torque wrench Now, about the 1 7/8" socket... You can go try and find a thin wall socket of that size, or you can spend $25 bucks at sears for this socket and take some meat off it (yoke is thick inside around the nut for strength) Now how to do this.... First, the service manual says you need to check pinion bearing preload with an in-lb dial type torque wrench with the wheels and brake completely removed. I did not do this. Why? Because I used to work at a Dodge dealer and we NEVER had any problems doing it the way I did mine and am about to explain to you. This axle does not use crush sleeves for bearing pre-load... It uses shims, like most H.D. rear ends. Now, the way I do this is the same way that the FORD service manual spells out the procedure for their trucks equipped with the dana 80. Ok, so here is the problem... 1. First thing you want to do is clean and dry up everything around the yoke as best you can. 2. Mark everything with a sharpie or paint pen to realign it later. 3. Block the front tires and support the rear of the truck with jack stands.- or do this on your lift. Also put tranny in neutral. 4. Remove the u-joint retaining hardware. The u-joint caps on mine were rusted into the yoke... Don't use a hammer to try and free it if yours is this way, you can damage the pinion bearings. Take a big pry bar and pry it apart. It will come. --Now you can see that beast of a nut. I sprayed some penetrating oil on the treads of the pinion shaft to make it easier to unscrew. 5. Take your pipe wrench or yoke holder and pin it against the frame or put a cheater pipe over the end and brace it against the ground. You are trying to secure the pinion and yoke from rotating as you try to remove the nut. 6. Hope you ate your wheaties, if you don't have a tq. multiplier you are going to have to get a 3/4 drive breakover bar and cheater to get this thing loose or a beast of an impact... I used a 1:6 torque multiplier that is 1/2" input and 3/4 out. It was tight. and once its loose, you can just start unscrewing it. 7. Get your 2 jaw puller and go to town on that yoke.... MARK IT FIRST!!! It needs to go back on in the same position it came off!!! It is tight all the way off!!!! Inspect it... Probably will have a nice little groove... Mine did... If the groove is bad enough, it WILL ruin your seal quickly. You can get a SKF Speedi Sleeve for the yoke or buy a new yoke from dodge ($140) 8. Now you can pull the seal out. Mine was a bit** and I ended up just destroying it to get it out... :banghead: Now you are almost to the finish line!!!! 9. Use a seal driver to install the seal. Make sure it is seated fully. 10. Put the yoke back on. It is tight!! You will have to use a rubber mallet probably to get it seated far enough to thread the nut and washer to get it cinched down the rest of the way.... 11. Tighten it up until the yoke is back in it's home completely. 12. Get your pipe wrench again and pin the yoke where it wont try and rotate. Torque the nut to around 450-500 lbs. Most will disagree on this step, there is some debate about on the correct torque for used bearings... I have seen them do it at most shops, they just impact it off and then back on... I don't trust that method... I set my torque wrench to 80lbs through a 1:6 multiplier and came out with something close to the factory tq. spec. NOTE: most say to use a new nut, but I did NOT. WE shall see if this bites me later on. I don't THINK it will loosen up from 500 ft lbs. That is pretty tight. But who knows....
  2. Compression Test As promised. I forgot to take pictures yesterday when I did this, plus I did it a slightly different way than the way I am going to explain. My gauge I have had for years, I drilled the check valve out WAY bigger than when it came from snap on. This way, I can do a check without the rockers on...... Anyway. You will need to get your hands on. 1. A compression test gauge suitable for a diesel engine's high compression. I have a snap-on MT 33 B, as well as a C model. Both are good for 800 PSI. And use standard 1/4" snap in quick connect air tool fitting. 2. A compression test adapter. Looks like an injector and fits where the injector goes. For the ISB (98-2007 in Dodge's) you can use either the Snap On Adapter: Stock#: EEPV313A or the Miller Tools # 9007. About 100 bucks for the snap on and 160 for the Miller. MT33B: Snap on adapter: Miller Tools adapter: Both are good quality and use the same 1/4" snap-in style fitting. However, with the 98-02 motors you are going to have to remove the exhaust rocker arm to facilitate removal of the injector hold down shoulder bolt, which I will detail later. If you get the snap on adapter, you do not have to do this step on the 98-02 Dodge motors. First thing you are going to want to do before you forget, like I do EVERYTIME!!! is to: 1. Disconnect power from the fuel lift pump. 2. Might as well remove the injector pump relay from the PDC box. Now you can get down to it... 1. Follow Mopar1973Man's directions for replacing the fuel injectors. [Remove the high pressure fuel lines, valve cover, intake, etc etc. You are wanting to get down to having no injectors in the motor at all] If you have a common rail motor or have a 98-02 and are using the Miller #9007 adapter, keep track of which cylinders your exhaust rockers go to, that way you don't have to worry too much about readjustment of rocker lash after you reinstall them for the compression test. -Start with cylinder number 1. -Stuff a rag down into the injector bores like I can never seem to remember to do!!!! 2. If you have a 98-02, remove the 10MM head flange bolt from the rocker pin of the exhaust rocker lever. Carefully lift the rocker lever off the pedestal, being careful not to let the pin slide out. If you have a common rail, your exhaust rocker lever is already off to have the injectors removed!! On the 98-02's you have to remove the exhaust rocker and are using the miller gauge because of this! Can't access the back bolt with that rocker on there. Why you gotta pull that rocker to pull the injectors on a common rail. 3. Remove the 8MM head injector hold down shoulder bolt from cylinder 1 if you are using the Miller Tools adapter #9007 and have a 98-02. If using snap on, please skip step 2 and step 3 on the 98-02 motors. On common rail, you will already have the exhaust rocker off, so just take your 2 8mm bolts and bolt the adapter down. 4. Inspect injector bore for debris, if any is present, clean it out! 5. Stick the compression test adapter down into the injector bore being mindful to the direction of the snap in style quick connect fitting is pointing. 6. FOR MILLER TOOLS 9007 ONLY: Take another regular 8MM head injector hold-down bolt from one of your other cylinders and use it in concert with the regular hold down bolt to bolt down your compression test adapter fitting into the injector bore. (these are just the full thread bolts that you remove when you pull your injectors, 6 of them on a 98-02 and 12 of them on a common rail. 7. Reinstall the exhaust rocker for number 1. Ensuring that you have not screwed around with the adjuster nut for the valve lash and that you used the proper rocker arm you removed from that cylinder, it should be ok as is. 8. Hook er up. 9. Ensure that everything has been removed from the high pressure fuel system-feed lines, fuel pump is not powered up!!!, relay is removed from PDC, and you are absolutely certain your valve lash is set properly and the 10MM head rocker lever hold down bolts are TIGHT (YOU DONT WANT TO SCREW THAT UP AND HAVE IT WHERE A PISTON CAN SLAP A VALVE, THAT WILL BEND PUSHRODS!) 10. Bump the motor over for about 10 seconds, and record that compression reading on a piece of paper. Do this for the rest of the cylinders. No published numbers for the compression specs. Lot of variables come into play... If you have altered the motor in some way, different pistons in race motors (decompressed) etc, your numbers will be lower. 16.3: 1 motors like the auto tranny motors that are SO, they will be slightly lower than the common rails and the HO 01 and 02 motors that have 17:1 compression ratios. All in all, you are really going to have to look at this on an individual basis.. In general, you are going to want to see at least 375 psi all across the board. In real life, 9/10 when you check a motor that runs good it will be above 400 , 450 500 psi depending on the motor. Shouldn't see too much of a variance between two adjacent cylinders, if you do it is often indicative of a head gasket combustion leak. Normal to do both a leak down and a compression test if you are trying to find a problem. ALSO. If you don't have the gauge and you have the adapter, you can do what is called a LEAK DOWN TEST. You would just hook up your air compressor to the compression adapter and set it for 100 PSI or so. NOTE: This will only work if you are on the compression stroke (BOTH VALVES CLOSED) and you have some way to hold the motor, like a barring tool for the flywheel!. If you don't, depending on what stroke the cylinder you are testing is at, it will try to spin over when you put the air to it. With this test, you can listen and see if you have a leak and can figure it out by listening. IF you do have a leak, take a oil can with a flexible dispenser straw, small enough to fit down into the injector bore hole, and oil around the edge of the cylinder wall to seal the top keystone ring. Put the air to it, if your leak sound stops, then its your rings. If it doesn't then you got something else wrong and probably need to pull the head. After you are done, hook everything back up and get er' done.
  3. I have since gotten rid of that truck.........I can't remember what it was but I do remember looking it up on here http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/departid.aspx
  4. I slid the fuel plate forward and turned the wheel right off the bat so I am not sure how the stock 215 hp compares to the 24 valve. I do know with the pump tweaked on this motor, it runs a lot better than the stock 24 valve it had. The gauges I never did screw with, I rigged up some mechanical gauges (water temperature, oil pressure) and put them in a dual gauge pod up on the top of the dash. I am still going to try and get the gauges to work, I hear you can use a 24 valve harness on the 12 valves sensors and stuff then mount the ecm on the 12 valve and plug it all in, it's supposed to work, but I dunno yet. Lets see... The throttle cable I ended up getting the whole shooting match off of a wrecked 12 valve truck. For the fuel solenoid and the starter, I just spliced into the ignition wiring in the column for all that, used a couple relays for solenoid to get it pull and hold. It's kinda southern engineered, but I am going to make it nice when I get some more time. Fuel pump I just used the stock 12 valve one on the block, figured it was fine. Yeah I hear that, i might do something like that. I can get the kit for a grand from this guy http://www.phdperformance.com/conversion.html sounds like you got to change a few things, I might just go that direction.
  5. Well I finally got my truck back together, an 02 model dually, i ended up just putting a 1997 12 valve motor in it and another used nv5600 tranny. i got really close to going with the c series 8.3 liter cummins, lifted the body up with spacers and mocked it in but decided it was just too big to be drivin around with. i recently bought an 05 model one ton 4x4 with a blown up motor, and I am going to put a 12 valve motor in it or figure out how to p-pump a common rail motor, that would be unique. anybody know or hear of anybody that has put a 12 valve in an 03+ truck? or if you have any knowledge of how the gauges work in an 03+ that would be helpful. I dont see a pcm anywhere, is the whole thing run by the ECM?
  6. yeah, i was just surprised i guess, had no idea they had interchangeable injectors. Said his motor developed a knock so he decided to put a newer model in for some reason. old gentleman, one of those that likes to drag his camper around the us and change his oil with amsoil every 3,000.
  7. those bad boys aint cheap btw. i hear tale of 1200 apiece straight from dodge.... $30 apiece to test cr injectors around here, probably first thing this guy oughta do is if he still has warranty is to have the dealer check it out.
  8. thats about right probably. he got the dpf and external egr still?
  9. I seen it. Truck came into the shop yesterday evening for a rear end rebuild. It was an 03 04 05 model dodge dually, dont know for sure, but by god it had a 6.7 in it. Guy i work with asked the guy about it and he said it's true, if you put a 03 or 04 set of injectors in the 6.7 and use the ecm off an 03 or 04 it will work. Never had the opportunity to screw around with a 6.7- too new.... so I dont have a clue if that is correct. anybody know for sure? obviously he did something to get it to work haha.
  10. haha nah i honestly didn't, i couldn't afford to fix it if i tore it up haha. I have a 05 duramax that has already grenaded on me once so i run the piss out of it because i hate it.
  11. Good info. Didn't really consider the weight....good point! I would still have my 362 for de-limbing felled trees, but was looking for something that could handle a bigger guide bar and chain, so weight I don't really care too much about. Of course, I would probably end up using it as my primary saw haha so maybe I should. Any idea why there is such a big price jump from the 660 to the 880? I like to buy stuff that is heavy duty and that I can repair in the future, that's why I was wondering if maybe the 880 is designed more with serviceability in mind than the 660. EDIT: Hmmm.... 10 years and flawless, it does appear that it has been a good saw. Hi Chuck, Thanks for sharing your experiences. I have never handled one of these bigger saws yet, guess I should to get a better idea of the weight, I just figured with me being young and dumb I should automatically buy the biggest and the best haha maybe I should be a little more cognizant of weight and other factors. I will look into a 441, that might be better suited for my needs.
  12. Never bought into that 125 retorque rumor. i always just follow the book's instructions, give them that final 1/4 turn. No problems yet.
  13. Ready to upgrade chainsaws from my stihl 362. I've never ran an 880 before, but I have ran a 660 with a 16" baby bar, it was awesome. Anybody out there have experience with the 660 or 880 and could tell me which would be better to go with? I do know the 880 is mega expensive compared to the 660, big jump in price, and I dont know why. Anybody?
  14. I sent that stuff off today for you BTW. Don't know how long it will take to get to you with thanksgiving and all... Wait on the head gasket those aren't cheap.... No need for the copper coating, just snake oil. Nothing wrong this one, I am parting it out is all because i am going with the wet sleeve motor. I will put it back together if I have to. 180k miles, stock no power adders. Never been overheated, no cracks. Painted red just to make it look nice. Guess it looks like a racing motor if you paint them
  15. If you want pics ill get some but the motor is still at the machine shop i need to go pick it up, i had it tanked for paint and new core plugs installed. I did the test fit before i tore it down and built my own solid motor mounts for the dodge frame, had to put some longer bolts and spacers to lift the cab up 3 inches to have room for it even then i would need to modify a few little things of course. steering shaft i still would need to put in an extra u joint maybe or change that whole setup to hydraulic off the pto pump on the tranny (which the donor truck has, it was a dump) But i am reconsidering that now... I bought the whole donor peterbilt 330 truck for the p pump 8.3 for $6000 I was thinking about just putting the dodge cab, bed, front clip- all that directly on the peterbilt's frame- I have no problem fabbing up mounts, I have a miller tig welder that I LOVE to put to good use haha- It would be a lot stouter with that pete frame under I think . Got an RTO6610 tranny and a fs6406 that was in the peterbilt, haven't decided which to go with. I could go with the dodge parts on with the pete frame and all that it would be a totally different beast and i could still register, license and tag it as a pickup. I don't know, haven't decided yet. --- Update to the previous post... But anyway, I don't need to hijack this fella's thread here.
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