Rogan

Anyone have any pointers or tool suggestions for splitting the NVG 271D/F tcase housing? I am about to tackle one this weekend. I've done about 4 or 5, but I always struggle with getting the halves to split. Is there a tool or something I can make that will go between the lugs on the halves, to spread the pieces apart? I've always used a hammer, punch, wood, whatever I can get my hands on to beat them apart.. I'd like maybe a simpler solution. Thanks.

Trying to rebuild a 6.7L in an 08. Been trying to get rod and main bearings, head gasket set, lower gasket set, and rings.. Been trying since June. Everyone lists parts as "available", but when you order, suddenly, there's no inventory... Apparently, Clevite 77, Mahle, etc, are hoarding their Cummins stock for some reason.. It's aggravating as hell..

I'm sure there has to be quite a bit of temp difference from stock airbox vs bhaf, just given the design.

thanks, Michael. I guess I'll order a Donadlson and give it a go. Prolly easier than finding/buying/shipping a used airbox.

Meh, I fixed it. the harness wasn't really seated well.. LOL

7200k, isn’t that on the blue side of spectrum?

We've got a 2008 MCSB 6.7L G56 with electric tcase. We had tons of issues with the 4WD over the past couple years with the transfer case shifting. After a few replaced decoder motor replacements, I said 'eff it' and swapped the 273 for a 271 from an 07 model. I put the floor shifter in, linkage, etc. 4WD works flawless now, and have had zero issues, since.. With the exception of the SERV 4WD light on (for obvious reasons). This has been the case since day 1 of the swap. So I thought "what if I just stick the motor from the original 273 under there, tie it up, and plug it in?" Nope. Still on. No Codes on my scanner to clear, so IDK what's happening. Anyone done this swap/heard of this issue, or a fix? I can't seem to find anything on the interwebz about it.

I agree 100%. But the other oddity was that both trucks I worked on were 2001s, both 04/2001..

In my two scenarios, all cables were replaced, FL, Alternator, etc., and testing proved to be the ECM internal circuits.

I'm just trying to determine what 3gen guys have experienced with light output and beam cleanliness. I've read a lot of reviews that the JDM A-Stars seem to be really good for a dual-beam LED. I know clocking the bulb is very important, as well. I just bought new headlight housings for the truck as well (OEM style, nothing fancy or weird).

Any of you 3G truck owners run LED headlight bulbs? If so, what's your recommendation, as to brands,, etc? I put new headlight housings in my 07, but the new halogen 55/60s just seem dull, still. I put Win Power H7s in my wife's GLK350 and they are insanely good in those housings.. Perfect OEM beam, and bright enough to make flowers bloom at midnight But hers are single beams, whereas the 9008/H13 are dual beam. Interwebs says Morimotos, but I'm not dropping $140 on a pair of bulbs, no way - no how.

this would be nice.. I know, old thread..

I've fixed a couple Voltage issues on some 2gen trucks when the ECM section was dead. I've used IVRs inside the alternator ro rectify the problem. I can get part number I used, if anyone's interested.

Where, in Virginia, are you? I'm also in VA.

Hey, guys. I picked up an 07.5 dually. I'm in need of a few items, so thought I'd pop it up here, too. I need 2 17" dually wheels (steel), and an air filter assembly (they were missing when I got the truck).. IIRC, @MnTom ran a BHAF on 3gen truck.. Can this also be an option for the 6.7L? Anyone got info or pics on this? THanks.. Also, if you know of some dually wheels laying around, LMK. Like I said, I need 2. I can't seem to find any on CL or forums (chevy or dodge.. i find a ton of ford crap.)

"backfeed" as in after pcm repair? or tag 12V fused at 5A to the blue wire?

so are they 12V triggered, or ground-triggered regulation? I mean, which toggles for voltage regulation during operation?

So it is not 'externally' regulated (like an old dodge or ford regulator). It is internally regulated, just like 99% of the GM alternators.. I know what you're getting at, Mike, but it's still not worth the additional expense to replace or repair the PCM in this particular vehicle, unless it's a repair that I could do, myself.. If this were a $8000 road-use truck, then yeah, I'd definitely look at repairing/replacing the PCM. But it's not, by any stretch of the imagination.

Because it's a farm truck that never leaves the farm, it's my old totaled truck (nv4500 24V). It's not worth a 6-900$ PCM. BTW, the mod to one-wire sits voltage at 14.5V, rock-solid. Regardless if I turn everything on, stick jumpers to a dead tractor, etc.. So it definitely works as I intended.

Let me see if I can find the pic when I bought my 01 QCSB 6 speed and towed it home.. You thing THAT's bad?

Here's it installed to what I THINK is gonna be proper. Orange is going to F+, Green to F-, White to 12V, Black is Ground.

Hey, guys. I've already converted my 12V truck to the 1-wire setup (technically, it's 2 wires, but w/e..) Started on the '01 today and realized quickly that the alternators are not the same LOL The internal regulator mod is pretty straight-forward, at least, on the dual-tab style alternators. But the plug-in connectors, the internals look way different. I've searched and searched to try and figure out where the field wire connectors inside the later style are, but to no avail. I only seem to find early 2G style, or or really old Mopar v-belt styles; neither do me any good.. Thoughts? I can grab a couple pics shortly.

FYI, upon clicking the link::

Yep, leave it out.

Just remove the spacer altogether. It's about 1/16" thick spacer between the flywheel and crank-end, with a lip around the edge. It'll often stick to the end of the crank and appear as part of it. It is not needed in the Valair/SB clutch set. Manual case swap is fairly straight-forward. I haven't gotten the truck back from him to complete the electronics portion (right now, truck dash lights up 4WD Service light, because nothing's plugged in to the OE electrionic control harness for the tcase. But everything is functional from a 4wd/2wd perspective. You'll need to cut a hole for the 4wd shifter. and the pocket in the floor console gets popped out and the 4wd boot plops right into place (at least, on the 08-09 truck, it does.)