Rogan

Never go full-stupid.

I just picked up a pair of Recon LED driving lights ( http://www.gorecon.com/product.php?pk=432&pname=Part-264502CL-LED-Square-Driving-Light-Kit-w-Chrome-Internal-Housing&p_cat=105 ) for $150, NIB.

My buddy gets about 48mpg in his Passat TDI (mid-90s model).I had an old '83 Rabbit LS 4 door with 1.5L diesel 5 speed. I could make (3.5) 140mi round trips on 9 gallons. It was a turd and took about 5 minutes to get up to 55mph, but once there, would cruise until it dried out the tank..

I'm hoping 40-60hp and possibly better economy. on the move... now Free

Stock GPS top left, Borg Warner Hybrid top right. (from when I replaced mine.)

Not yet. I will once I swap these out. The new ones are set for 300 bar.

So my buddy Jeremy @ Disturbed Diesel Performance built me some injectors this past weekend. Bosch bodies with some 5x.012 SAC nozzles. We're thinking that I may have a bad injector or two, which is contributing to my 9-11mpg issues...

He said he replaced it.. ? on the move... now Free

will it manually upshift fine?Possibly the OSS as mike suggested. It's a cheap replacement part, as well..

I hate you right about now... j/k

Basically, yes, to keep the truck from wandering as much. It doesn't wander around a lot, as it is, but when I tow (heavy) it tends to wander around more (obviously). With more caster in it, it'll want to track straight, due to the geometry. Yeah, I'm debating on whether I want to just replace the entire arm, or mess with pressing out 16 yr old bushings.

Those look like the items in need.. on the move...

on the move... now Free

I got the truck inspected last week. On Sunday, I replaced the track bar, due to a completely worn out TRE.This morning, I had it aligned. I requested that they max out the caster (4.0+). The tech said he would, and he tried. But, there's an issue with worn out bushings and eccentric bolts in the LCAs. The max he could get was ~ +3.0. I'll attach a pic of the print-out, shortly, as I forgot it in the truck.So I see where various places offer bushings, but I cannot find where to get replacement eccentric bolts, other than the dealer. Anyone have any suggestions as to how best to go about this, and options on the bolts? Should I press out/replace the bushings, or replace the LCA assemblies, all-together? Cost is a factor, obviously, but at the same time, "time is money"..Thanks.

I have 4.10s and hate 'em...even with the automatic..

it's either the FSS, relay, or lack of power to either.

It's a decent little read... http://napc.ca/media/resource/pdf/Chrysler-RE-Diagnostics-By-Mike-Van-Dyke.pdf

If camber is truly "out", then it's either ball joints, wheel hub bearing assembly, or bent axle tubes. There's no camber adjustment w/o adjustable ball joints.

Given that 1st is a "granny gear", if you will, it is not generally needed to start off when no load on the truck.I generally started off in 2nd with both my previous MT trucks, unless loaded/towing/on an incline.burning the clutch up is more of a user-error issue (dragging it out, riding around with your foot resting on the clutch pedal, holding the truck still on an incline, rather than the brakes, etc.)

If you can roll the truck in park, then it can only really point (at least for this particular issue) to 3 things: [*]Transfer Case either not in gear, or has broken [*]Transmission PARK stop or PARK rod has become disconnected [*]Transmission Input and/or Output shaft has failed/broken - - - Updated - - - yeah, sorry... I apparently missed your resolution post...

I've never had an issue with porcelain grates. Evar.

they're really good about warranty stuff..

sounds like either the Solenoid trigger wire is having issues, or a possible voltage drop on the battery cable to starter. Could also be a grounding issue. A quick test I've done in the past is by using a set of jumper cables. Connect one end of it to ground and positive of the battery. On the other end, leave the ground side disconnected, and connect the positive end to the terminal on the starter where the positive battery cable connects (the big lug). Try to start it. If no change, disconnect the cable from the lug, and connect the ground end to the starter housing or block. Try to start it again. If no change, connect both to the starter (positive to battery cable lug on starter, ground to starter chassis or block) and try to start again. If no change, leave them connected, and use a jumper wire from the positive terminal lug (where the jumper cable is connected) to the small post for the starter solenoid. Touching this connection should result in either the truck turning over. If it does, then start backtracking the starter solenoid trigger circuit. DANGER! **WARNING** EXERCISE CAUTION: YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN HEALTH AND SAFETY! ENSURE TRUCK IS IN PARK (auto) OR NEUTRAL (manual), PARKING BRAKE IS SET, AND WHEELS ARE CHOCKED PRIOR TO TESTING. THIS TESTING CAN BE DANGEROUS SHOULD THE VEHICLE TRY TO MOVE DURING THE TESTS.

With the OD in the "OFF" position, it should shift 1, 2, 3, LU. If you then turn the OD "ON", it will unlock, then go into OD, then lockup again.2500 rpm is high for it to shift at, under normal to moderate pedal travel. Have you checked your TV cable adjustment? Basically, you want it (the TV arm on the trans) "closed" or at the furthest point forward at idle. as soon as you start to move the throttle, the TV cable should start to move the arm. At WOT on the pedal, the TV arm should be at it's farthest point toward the rear of the trans.If it is too tight, this will cause a later shift into gears, as well as a more abrupt gear change.Is this what you are experiencing?