Hawkez

I pulled it and looked at it last night. The rubber has not separate and I didn't notice any debris. I reseated it today and I'll take it for a spin around to see if the problem continues. If so, I replace this T-Stat. Replacing the heater core went really well. The new core didn't come with the weather stripping that the old one had, so I put some on it. Did you pull your HVAC box?

This week I installed a new heater core and with that I flushed the radiator, installed a new thermostat and radiator cap. I pulled the radiator while I had it empty to inspect it for blockages and it looks great. Before I took it apart it was starting to run a little warmer then usual especially when under a heavy load, but it never overheated.. I had suspected that the thermostat was going bad. I put 50 miles on it after flushing it and changing those parts and the temp held steady and nothing was out of the norm. Until I drove home last night. On the freeway the temp sat at around 160*. That is after it warmed up to just above 190*, then it dropped down and sat there steady. If I got on the accelerator it would rise to 190*. Maybe I got a bad thermostat? It is a 190* thermostat from Napa. I'm not sure what else would cause this, would air in the system be the cause? I've never had a car or truck run cool like this. The outside temp was 50*, so nothing strange. The thermostat that I put in had a rubber ring that sat around the thermostat, the old one didn't have anything like that...

Maybe pull the door panel off and take a look, if you can hear the motor running but nothing happens there may be something visual. The door panels are easy to remove. Why would anyone not like power locks?

I can't believe I waited this long until I pulled the HVAC box and cleaned it up. It is all back together and it is nighty & day difference. I was reluctant about pulling the dash back to access everything but it really was pretty straight forward. The only problem that I ran into was the new blower didn't come with the weather tape inside like the OE blower had. I didn't realize this until everything was installed and I turned it on. Without that weather tape, it didn't sit tight and vibrated which made an odd sound. I pulled it and put in foam striping and it sits great now, no vibration or annoying sounds.

Since I bought the truck 5 years ago or so I have been dealing with poor air flow from the heater and A/C. In fact, it struggles to keep the windshield defrosted, especially with several people in the truck. Once in a while, usually after start up, I get a faint smell of something burning and I have even had smoke come from the vents a couple of times. The problem has been getting worse so I finally decided to pull the HVAC box and found what I thought I would. The evaporator is caked in leaves and other debris. I looked all over for where the burning was coming from and the only thing that I can see is that the blower resistor was covered in the same debris. With the resistor broke the conductors on the inside are exposed and I assume that they have been the cause of burning. There is nothing burnt or charred inside the box. How do I keep this stuff from getting inside the box again? I ordered a new heather core, evaporator, resistor, and blower since it is getting tough to spin. It ought to be much better than it was once I get it back together.

@Cronus577 what did you use for the new foam/sealer when you put your HVAC box together? I am pulling mine this weekend.

I see the same thing as AH64ID , I have tried to refresh the setting and filters and nothing seems to change. It wasn't always like this.

Micron

When you remove the canister can you see if the seal is torn or dirty? Is it leaking from the nut that tightens the canister? Also, you said when your fuel pressure jumped to 5 psi? You should maintain at least 14 psi of fuel pressure. If your left pump is only getting you up to 5 psi you ought to look into that.

I have a '99 and my oil pressure readout never drops to 0.

Which check engine codes is he getting? Has he ever checked for AC voltage coming from the alternator?

Works just fine with one person. I did mine this way on my own and I had no trouble or need or any one else. No need to buy tools that I don't need.

Holy Crap, this has been a process and to have it come to this point. Your patience and loyalty ought to be rewarded by something. You have some leverage to get a nice key chain or at least a t shirt.

While you are considering a new LP, during the install you ought to consider replacing the restrictive banjo bolts at the filter canister and going to the IP. Many here have opted to use a larger diameter fuel supply line from the tank the LP and then to the IP. That will also help you have stable fuel pressure under WOT. Something to consider.

I would recommend ditching the amp. The sound in my truck sounds great for what I want out of it. Making the wiring work is very simple. I had two speakers that were blown so I had to upgrade the speakers, I have no regrets.