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WiscoRedkneck

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WiscoRedkneck last won the day on January 14

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  1. High amp alternator

    @Dieselfuture if l understand my old man correct ( the engineer) you would tend to be correct as the batteries act almost as filters as ac voltage gets shunted to ground through the battery, now even if that's correct it still means there's a strong chance of AC noise so no issue is resolved. Just hidden maybe as Mike would say, but then again I could just be totally wrong and misunderstanding the engineer
  2. High amp alternator

    The only ground that was technically added was the one from the battery to the alternator mount, that was added per Nations installation instructions. The charge line goes back into a harness so I added a charge line into a fusible link(after discussion in a different thread the fuse was added) directly to the positive of the passenger battery that was also a Nation's installation requirement. I went with the bigger alternator and all new parts thinking that all was going to be good now I just have to go measure the darn thing to make sure that I'm not causing more harm than good I will update shortly Ok so idle headlights radio HVAC off VAC measured from charging stud passenger negative bounced from .001-.002 VAC headlights on HVAC on high and radio on volume set around normal cruising level .005-.1 I'm not an electrical genius but that seems fairly good but based on what is said about increased ripple on high output alternators I was almost expecting to see higher numbers. BTW this is Nations 180 amp unit
  3. High amp alternator

    When I overhaul I changed my ground setups on everything I have a ground wire going from my alternator bracket to my passenger battery that cable is 1/0 the two engine grounds to battery are 2/0 as well as the chassis ground is also 2/0 the body to battery ground is 4 gauge both sides. The one thing you have to remember to is the main ground that connects your batteries to the chassis is behind the front bumper in front of the driver's tire on the outside of the frame rail, that connection must be clean and non corroded and always covered with some sort of Dielectric grease oil WD-40 something to prevent corrosion and to keep a good ground to the chassis when I found out on my truck during the overhaul I shook my head and said really Dodge you couldn't have come up with a better location......
  4. High amp alternator

    Sounds right to me, also doesn't sound good for your alternator. After an overhaul of my electrical system at 341,000 miles including larger wiring and bigger alternator(Nation's, still need to test now I'm curious) I noticed an improvement in headlight issues but not resolved I will say running at high idle it's almost unnoticeable. Now since I have done the repair I try to only let the truck sit on high idle if it's going to stay running. I can vary my high idle speed and it's set for 1100 RPM right now will that be sufficient spin speed to cool the alternator? The truck only idles in the morning for 10 minutes and/or if we're picking up materials or a trailer
  5. Making new battery cables

    @01cummins4ever I've recently started using a product called fluid film it's a lanolin based lubricant/ corrosion protection since it's good enough for the Navy and the first item on recommend uses is battery connections I figured it must be be perfect..
  6. Making new battery cables

    Yes it was expensive but considering the transmission hunting is fixed I'd say the alternator actually was bad even though it didn't show on meter, now I have an extra deep cycle battery going back into the camper since I stole it when one of two batteries went bad awhile back. Before this repair I new the remaining old battery was questionable and I was advised to match batteries so I did. The battery cables well there could have been a cheeper repair but I would have only considered that a band aid as I did have pretty bad voltage drop through the starter cable and terminal ends. So about 200 dollar upgrade the rest was needed unfortunately... But in the long run totally worth it no questions asked. That's almost exactly what I noticed the fine wire was absorbing the heat far better than the terminal end
  7. Making new battery cables

    New fusible link assembly will arrive tomorrow, ran the numbers looked everything over all total not including batteries and alternator I have $243 in wiring fusible link and terminal ends. After looking into it I could probably build a kit for under 300 that's including wiring and fusible link for a upgraded alternator. If I recall correctly it was just under $300 to the door for the alternator and $270 for batteries
  8. Making new battery cables

    That there is the fusible link that I plan to use to protect the charge line to the battery 200 amp any thoughts before I order it up
  9. Making new battery cables

    Good thought instructions didn't say anything about that but I like the idea
  10. Making new battery cables

    I agree with this one hundred percent the only exception to this is in my case the LarryB style tinned terminal ends did not accept solder very well, I believe I couldn't get it hot enough without causing damage to the insulation to get the terminal to accept solder it just kept wicking up the copper. so do to being short I purchased locally some copper ends that were crimped and soldered theese took solder very well so it truly depends on what you are working with The first picture here is of the upgraded chassis ground that goes directly from the frame to the battery then you have the upgraded charge line and ground wire off the alternator bracket to the negative on the passenger side battery and then off the power stud on the alternator to the positive the passenger side battery ran out of red cable so the passenger side charge line is black Last picture just gives you a little better shot of the alternator and the back of it
  11. Making new battery cables

    The drill press vise separated from the press deck when enlarging the lugs I got hit by the spinning vise I didn't break any bones just cut pretty good and bruised sucks it's the dominant hand.... Okay so the first two pictures are what I had to start with the other pictures show removal of the crossover wire and the driver side ground. the ground is the drivers side engine ground it goes down to engine block I believe it's an 18mm bolt that is into the block right behind your slobber tube just below the power steering pump. The picture below shows the lugs the new ones I got are 2/0 3/8s lugs as you can see the engine grounds and starter lugs have to be 2/0 1/2 on the engine and starter side of the cables I just drilled three out of which one ended in disaster.... Since we're on the topic the Larry B kit I got was designed as a top end kit if you're cutting off your existing cable lines and putting on new cables ends to the batteries it works great but if you're replacing the cables in their entirety you need a lot more lugs about 12 if I recall correctly and all total including enlarged chassis to battery ground and extra charge line and ground I used 40' of 2/0 Nations alternator gave me a fancy wire chart I will post for reference to identify what gauge wire I should use for the system... The next picture shows the location of the passenger side ground both batteries at this point have been removed the air intake tube, air cleaner and heat shield has also been removed to grant easier access I traced the main ground on passenger side back to the engine it's located just behind the oil filter housing slightly below it and just in front of the engine mount I was able to touch it from up top but found it easier to remove from underneath. This battery side also has a body ground, the PCM ground(I think) and I believe it's the grid heater ground that's the last picture of the gray plug, those plugs are very difficult to get apart and should be inspected for corrosion and even though they have a weather pack on them I still put a little Dielectric grease in there just for good measure. Luckily for me when I separated them and then cut off the existing terminal end to splice on my new one the wire was still in good shape and it was not going to need to be replaced, if it's too badly corroded and you have to replace it you'll have to contact a Dodge dealer and acquire a new plug end or find something online. The alternator has also been removed from the truck at this point I pretty much had everything out of the truck I was ready to start cleaning and rebuilding. I laid out all the existing battery cables on the floor then cut all my new ones to length once I was done with that I then trim the ends to expose the copper to prepare them for crimping and soldering. I need to take some more pictures of final product this picture here is the last picture I took before I injured my hand, at this point both batteries are sitting in the truck the alternator is in loosely for mock up and we're dry fitting all of the cables currently the truck does not have the right wire loom on the crossover cable it's too small once my hand feels a little better I have to change that so when you see that the pictures no comments please lol I'll make you guys chuckle I've been using voice to text to bring this write up to you and editing with my left hand when needed.... Still -6 degrees outside right now so maybe around noon I'll go out and take some pictures for you guys.
  12. Making new battery cables

    Alright so it's been a while since I posted last I was able to get it done about 4 days ago but haven't been able to post anything due to injuring my hand during the repair. I will have more to follow including pictures and so on right now as it sits Larry B's cable repair kit was far less complete that I was hoping and needed a lot of pieces to complete the project also I'm not exactly happy with the quality of terminals they didn't seem to take solder very well. The alternator on the other hand is a complete different story I could not be any happier during first startup you'll still will notice the headlights dim but once the truck runs for a minute it adjusts itself and you will notice a slight dimming if all of the lights are on in the cab including interior lights and your running fan on high power otherwise the headlights almost never dim like before. For the alternator you do have to add one ground and charge line, also my grounds for the engine were upgraded as well. I'm putting a list of extras I had to buy to complete the project so you will know what is involved, as well as some locations tricks and things I found of what not to do.... all total 2 new batteries, new alternator, all new battery cables and new body chassis grounds under the hood were replaced. I had to run to the store once to get the rest of the parts that took 3 hours without that the job can be easily completed in half a day I spent about 6 and a half hours at it but had extra wiring and modifications I made.
  13. Making new battery cables

    Finally I got all the parts in including the new alternator just waiting for temperatures closer to 0 and not double digits below. Or I could just take the lumber rack off and get it into the garage otherwise it's too tall... Finally we should see double digit positive temperatures tommorow and Monday
  14. Making new battery cables

    Good thought on the pulley size didn't even consider that, I was leaning towards Nations so at this point I'm just going to order from them and see what I get. I kinda thought this would not fix the dimming headlight issue but we can still hope right
  15. Making new battery cables

    I'm about to order my new alternator and I'm looking at a couple of high output units and was curious what you guys think/have experience with. Also I am trying to eliminate the dimming headlight issue which is why I'm looking at higher output alternators and most seem to be completely new units, curious if you guys think that will fail to help headlight issues. Here are the two I'm looking at https://www.xtremediesel.com/Mean-Green-1339-High-Output-Alternator.aspx I'm leaning more towards the second one https://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/180-Amp-HP-High-Output-Alternator-for-2000-Dodge-p/13874-180-hp.htm It seems a like they actually know what they changed with actual test results versus just saying it's output and nothing about what you have done to improve it.
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