WiscoRedkneck

I think Mike hit the nail on the head I always warn up my truck in winter and sometimes I would use high idle other times I would no. Hearing that from Mike and knowing from hearing her crank over only one valve is bad so likely just tarred up and tore herself apart.

After doing more research I'm only more confused, the valve must have been damaged for awhile and is not at all related to the injection pump. During crank over you can here the leak by.

3 weeks, injection pump was bad Darrell got to it today I have other issues as well. Could someone explain to me how I could bend a valve when the pump fails with an injector feed valve on pump stuck open? Apparently head has to come off.... first time in 385,000 miles

Not anymore just an xzt. Come to think of it nothing has been cleared since I removed the Smarty could that be a residual?

Hmmm, so I can have that code for years and then the ECM just kicks the bucket with no warning.... wtf, will have to look into this, thanks. Oh well we drug the old pick up out from along side the barn myself and two others(one crashed ls fest with a ls swapped fox body mustang) have all the parts and pieces to throw an ls in the old chubby, time to take some load off the big truck that needs lots of TLC.

So update, added 10 gallons of diesel tried to re-prime with no success, no fuel from any of the 4 lines I broke open. Re-checked for codes and the only one I have is my re occurring p0602 code that has been around for a couple years now, it will pop up two or three times over, so right now the code is in there twice and those are the only two codes I have on the computer.

Fuel pressure on post filter gauge shows 21 psi no drop during crank no fuel at cracked line fuel level gauge showing 1/4 tank but I will still try adding fuel see what it does, thanks for the tips.

Last night grabbing mail across the road before going up the drive the truck revved and died. No cel rough running or any weird issues besides an extra second or two of crank time while attempting to start over the last week. At this point it is scheduled to be towed to my mechanic on Friday he can't get to it till next week Wednesday, and I need wheels and the pump will have to be ordered. So how do I diagnose a failed injection pump to help speed things along and order a new one if needs be? Currently I'm in a no start situation with no cel's.

Bought an XZT to move away from my smarty installed it and didn't change the tunes at all, I got it second hand so I don't know what is loaded into it currently. What I do know is it made my truck run worse on any setting other than stock and I didn't get the cable to download tunes to the box. So is this cable available anywhere? Also from reading around it doesn't sound like any tune for the xzt would make my truck run that bad. It would bog egts would spike and I wasn't getting over 10psi for boost yet stock it spools to 22-26 no problem.

Btw some may call me a hoarder for taking their old junk but hey the right "thing" that is someone's junk can usually be repurposed or rebuilt and maybe save my butt or someone else's so cheers to being a "hoarder" lol.

I have a set of used stock injectors, pay the shipping and they will be on their way I have several sets laying around with tubes right now the ones I will send were pulled from a good running truck where my friend wanted more zing and went bigger. All the shops around here don't charge for cores so between all of us using Cummins trucks all 5.9 only one 3rd gen rest are 2nd including my mechanic who has 3 Cummins 2nd gens are starting to pile up injectors he gave me a free set of cores so I can pass on this favor. PM me if you want.

Just look what the big boys leave behind at a fuel station what you see is normal. I knew something was afoot when I had more than one drop not by the tube, how I found out my front main seal is weeping. On the tube though does anyone notice how it seems to get worse come summer time not much but noticeable? Wondering if heat and condensation play a role in making the drips larger than if it was just oil because I will admit that I felt the fluid on the ground and it did seem thinner than straight oil.

I'm doing a lot of the work but using guys from Thuren and local 4x4 shop to build certain parts and lead on the right path though.... Everything is burned in I have a frame half from a 2000 2500 that was made to be my jig and also was the doner truck for any parts pieces or measurements. I'm using hand built control arms that are coming from the 4x4 shop, I stole the spring cups off another 60 that a friend bought for his jeep and was going with leaf springs. Now I'm just getting back into my busy season so this "fun project" will be taking a back seat again as I have other more important issues to hash out and I'll be working on the road 3-4 days out of the week, so no fun for me......

Hmm maybe I have the year wrong, I know it's a high pinion. Everything had to be hand built took alot of trial and error. Based on the mock up chassis everything will bolt right in