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WiscoRedkneck

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WiscoRedkneck last won the day on January 14

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  1. Ok, so pretty confused right now and hoping for clarification. Btw it's a bit of a read... What happened, lost control of o/d switch/ could not disengage but trans acted normal, where I am at we have had some flooding so on my way to work in the dark I missed some high water around a bend and went through it at speed no deeper than the axles not even ten miles up the road o/d hunting began got to work a few miles down the road and called the builder of the transmission, this trans has maybe 20k on it and is still under warranty. He told me to come straight there after work finished work heading over to him trans acted normal again. My immediate thoughts were weather pack/sensor problem so we decided to plug in a scanner and see what she said. Long short three different scanners later no communication with pcm yet power present and all fuses good. So we started manual diagnostics and found a bad casing on the output shaft speed sensor so we replaced it just because. Now at this point stumped as all get out dead obd2 port and no control over o/d we went up the road to another builder who deals more with allison and has a built Cummins pulling truck for his opinion. Talked over a bunch of ideas and decided to try his snap on scanner no comm he looked at me and said I think you have wiring problems to figure out. So today I started working through started simple fuses first all good then I went on to thinking with 363,000 on the truck maybe I'm having pcm trouble so what's the easiest way for me to eliminate that possibility. After consulting the book I found that with two small blade screw drivers you can pull the O/D button and test the O/D on off feature with a jumper wire this way testing wiring and overdrive sense in pcm, based on wiring diagram from book, everything works as it should. Now to the OBD2 port I will state at this point I already know the pin out and have tested the port to find ccd+ bus signal prong dead. Throw my meter on again to get a baseline and see if anything changed and some how it did, ccd+ bus came back either by coincidence or somehow the bad O/D switch caused that pin to not have signal. Question is do I still have other problems yet it just seams weird a switch would kill the OBD2 port.
  2. WiscoRedkneck

    WiscoRedkneck

  3. WiscoRedkneck

    Everyone post a picture of your truck!

    Fender is dented from deer strike last winter
  4. Vehicle: Ben Category: 2nd Generation Date Added: 2018-07-16 Ben
  5. WiscoRedkneck

    Ben

  6. Does it act like it double shifts ever? If so I'm kinda with Mike and check the TV cable my brand new trans started acting funny literally last week, do to warranty I took it right to the shop. They found my return spring had broke on the tv cable. Symptoms it fixed random unlocking of converter over 60mph Heavy black smoke from stop, never seen it this bad sorta smoke Double shift in 1st Random shutters at 55mph and above Hope this helps
  7. I think this was a culmination of variables and over stressing the truck during the recovery of the heavy equipment. We pulled a log truck out with the assistance of another log truck we did that in 4lo 4hi On our way out we swerved for a deer and clipped a stump and the deer drove it home vac pump leaking power steering going in and out
  8. Found the missing chunk of gear in the bottom of the timing case how it got there is anyone's guess I figured it got chewed up.... Got to fix all my oil leaks up front. Fired up the truck mind you this is the first time Daryl has heard the truck run within two seconds he tells me to shut it off and tells me I likely have loose torque converter bolts or they're broken completely off. Pulled the transmission and found two bolts came loose and broke the ears off the torque converter and the remaining had elongated the flexplate holes this caused some damage to the bell housing. I will get more pictures later the one below is the damaged bell housing. Transmission is being rebuilt as I speak including new flexplate and torque converter. So hopefully by Wednesday after almost 3 weeks I will have the truck back running right again
  9. No it was not, it started as a drive line vibration, it would come and go. Now it's knocking and squeaking and won't quit. We towed it to a good friend who runs a shop, the initial diagnosis is believe it or not a killer dowel pin issue he's in the process of removing the timing cover to find out for sure but apparently it happens to a handful of newer trucks. His house needs an addition so I guess my company will be building an addition with a discount
  10. It's knocking and squealing from the front drivers corner of the engine it's also running rough/ whole truck shakes. I brought it home on a flatbed Friday and currently since I'm so far behind schedule with work I own my own company that I rented another truck to work this week and try and figure out what I'm doing with this thing.
  11. I don't know if any metal is causing issues I know I changed the oil and it appears clean and free of metal. I do know something else besides the pump is wrong though, my reason for thinking this is when I tried to start the truck this morning it was very difficult to start it was only 30f out so it should have started right away. I'm starting to wonder is it possible that I damaged the injection pump when the vacuum pump failed
  12. Tried bleeding the system again this morning started it still rattling knocking and squeaking going to have it towed to a shop and see what they say unless someone else has an idea
  13. So I started the truck and it foamed the fluid and started rattling right away. Shut off 40 to the left and right still rattling/ knocking don't know what else to do besides take it to a shop or get rid of it. Unless I have another bad pump which I doubt I even drove the thing foaming fluid no luck
  14. @Junkman I was not able to rebuild this pump due to the fact that a bearing failed causing the pumps piston to actually grind the head of the vacuum pump. When you split the two halfs the one rear half that has the power steering pump mounting brackets on it was grooved and gouged. At this point I towed the truck home and pushed it in the garage with the tractor drained the fluid out pulled the power steering and vacuum pump assembly back off. The power steering pump suffered failure most likely due to incorrect fluid it has lots of slop in the drive cogs shaft. The vacuum pump appeared to be okay but was an earlier style pump nipple straight out the side versus having the manifold then nipple, even though they should interchange and have the same teeth count I exchanged that pump for the correct pump as well. I have flushed the system to the best of my ability and it is no longer red in color it is amber. Currently my problem is air trapped in the system I have tried everything going left right left right left right 40 times per the book instructions for bleeding. I even tried pulling the pressure line off the pump and applying fluid pressure from a pressure bleeder to that and I'm still bubbling the fluid and the reservoir is not staying even fluid level wise. Still haven't started this truck since I brought it home and quite frankly I'm afraid to.....
  15. Sounds good just got home and read my book and it says explicitly not to use ATF+4 I will start by removing ATF and flush. do you think it is it likely the ATF is foaming therefore causing the knocking, or did I damage the new parts?
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