2nd Generation Dodge 12 Valve Powertrain

I saw a lot of threads about this on other forums and people didn't know how it should be starting in the winter, what to check if it doesn't start right, etc. In the summer the engine compresses the air and it doesn't take much to make summer air hot enough to ignite the fuel. The cylinder walls and pistons are cold when you first start it and any heat from compression is absorbed through them. In the summer this isn't a concern since the rate of absorption is much less with things that are already hot. In the winter, the engine block will be whatever the ambient is. The colder it is the more it will take to get it started because the cylinder walls and piston are…

Here is a link to a four part video for checks related to low power and other symptoms of issues. I don't know if this has been posted on here of not but has lots of info. Enjoy

Just recently in FL it's started to get cold. 30s at night... Haha real cold right :lol:Anyway, my truck has always started right up after sitting at night fine no problems.It has a brand new (as of a few months ago) Carter fuel pump fuel filter was changed at the same time.Lately however, after sitting all night long it will start up a little rough, no extra cranking, but will have to warm up slightly before taking off. If I don't wait for warm up it will run rough for about 2 minutes while chuggin, sputtering or whatever it is. If I leave it parked out of gear and give it throttle it will also sputter and spill white smoke.I might have a few ideas as to what it is, but …

I have a green vacuum line that run from T-case, up towards the firewall, along with the red and black CAD lines. The only difference is the green line has a rubber connecting end but is just hanging out not attached to anything. Can anyone explain what this line is for?

VTCUMMINS sent this to me, figured you guys could jump on it as well since I seem to be losing time available to me. i have a 96 dodge cummins with a #100 fuel plate and the star wheel backed off. the truck doesn't want to sit an idle it just stalls, but if you keep the RPM's up it will continue to run, it also seems to have a problem driving up hills, I've changed the lift pump because i thought that might be the problem but turns out not to be, hopefully you can give me some direction....? p.s. the problem came well over a year after the fuel plate... As for the stalling thing, you need to adjust the idle set screw. I imagine if you let off it tries to idle…

i hae a 3 gauge pod on a 97 dodge 3500 w/ a nv4500, i have a boost and pyro but what can i use to fill the empty space. i was thinking water temp and was wondering where to install sender? but i am open to some input.

My radiator has been doing this for a long time but I have not been able to fix it. I got a new radiator cap and nothing changed. It draws in air whether heating up or cooling down. I don't know what I need to do to fix it. Any ideas? I know for sure the overflow hose isn't leaking.

Went out this morning so I could get the truck all nice and warm before I pulled the trailer today and the GFI kept tripping. I ohmed out the connections and everything was fine so I said the hell with it, stuck it in a regular outlet and heard a bzzzzzzzrrrrrrrrrrt. Pulled it out of the outlet and it looked fine. Traced it back to truck which smelled like burnt rubber but couldn't find anything burnt, maybe it just didn't look burnt enough. The elements were at the right ohms and everything so I don't see how they shorted unless it was the ground shorting to the hot or something. Anyhow, I probably need a new one and new cord. Probably this heater http://www.gen…

I am thinking about putting an electric oil pump on my truck just so when I start it, it already has oil pressure. After that the pump can turn off since the mechanical one is now turning. I am just wondering how hard this would be to do. I haven't looked into it much but figured someone on here knew all the pros and cons.

I got the wild idea to make a whole graph of my EGT's at different speeds, temperatures, and conditions. I can't exactly graph them all instantly though so if anyone wants to help, just get on level ground and go a constant speed at a constant throttle, record the factors like I have, let me know if it is the truck in your sig or list the truck specs it was on. I want to see how everything affects the EGT's and I am too stupid to remember what it was "last time" so I am going to start recording what I see. I am going to do all 5th gear driving so if you guys are in a gear other than O/D, just list it so we know. These will all be unloaded tests, people may wonde…

Found something neat out today. As you all may or may not know, I don't run a fan or anything. Obviously this poses a problem while idling. It takes about 10-15 min of idling to get it from 190 to 210. I am not sure why this has never crossed my mind since it is probably a well known fact but they say to run the heater when the engine is overheating. I got back today and let it idle with the heater on full blast. It never moved from 190, in fact it went down to 190 (was at 195) and stayed there for 10 minutes that I trial ran it. I have 2 temp gauges and they both stayed right there. That means if I idle, all I have to do is roll the windows down and put the heat …

I have a DaveG tranny and today it acted strange. The outside temp was 12* and it did not want to shift out of second gear (2000RPM, 48MPH) until I went about a mile. It then would not go into O/D until another mile. Warmer weather it is fine. Any ideas?

I constantly have what I think is oil around my injectors. (it doesn't smell like fuel)I'm guessing it's my valve cover gaskets.hopefully these pictures will post and I can get other opinions.I should adjust my valves anyway.

I used a flushing kit.. you know the kind where you put the T-fitting in the heater hose and then connect a garden hose.After running a bottle of radiator cleaner for a day, I drained and flushed as directed with heater on high.My question is this: while flushing, does the water really cycle through the entire system? I ask because it never really gets hot , and I'm assuming the thermostat never opens.So I'm gonna run straight water for a day, then drain again (maybe do that twice over a couple days)then add my distilled water/antifreeze.Anybody see any problem with this?Thanks, John

Hey Gang, Well I helped my friend install his 4 GSK in his '98 12v automatic 4x4 truck today and ran into a little hiccup.... All went well up until we started the truck up and it had jumped from idling at 650rpms to 1000rpms so we adjusted the idle adjustment back down to about 850 RPMs.But the real problem is whenever he puts the truck into gear (auto) it dies.... It does it in both drive and reverse. It drives fine down the road, really moves!!!!:drool:We measured the studs you're supposed to measure on the truck and the starting measurement was about .015 and the nuts were relatively loose. We installed them at .040-.050 like the paperwork said. They are about at .045…

I just found these videos and thought they were worth sharing. seems to be quite a few vids in the series. Sorry if It's old news to everybody.

Finally taking care of my KDP today. I've been aware of the KDP issues for quite a while and always convinced myself "it won't happen to me".After reading over the procedure a couple hundred times it finally seemed less intimidating and I decided to tackle it.Today I got down to the dowel itself and found it firmly seated in it's hole.Tomorrow I'll make the tab and reassemble.One concern is how to keep the engine from turning while torquing the dampener bolts.Any suggestions?John

I am new to the site and new to Cummins, doing lots of reading and research, I am considering replacing the TPS with a potentiometer. Has any one done this, does it work as it is billed on some of the other sites? Now for the really dumb question, yes I am fully prepared to ask DUMB QUESTIONS; where is the thing? Is there a pic out there, maybe?

I have my turbo completely dissected and I am not a big fan of regular bolts on exhaust manifold/turbo parts. They get hot/cold and break off or the bolt head strips out. Of course I broke 3 off Anyhow here are my options: [*]Hardened Hex Bolt 10.9 ($1.45) [*]Socket Head Cap Screw (allen) 12.9 ($1.15) [*]Socket Head Cap Screw (allen) Stainless ($2.00) Prices were for one size bolt that I remembered comparing. I went ahead and got #2 since they were cheapest but mainly because they were 12.9 grade. I stared at the stainless ones for 5 min but I am not sure how they would compare with the 12.9 allen screws in the long run of exhaust manifold abuse. A…

anybody know what I would need to do to get the factory gauges in the cluster in my 01 to work with a 12 valve motor swapped into the truck instead of the 24 valve.