I've read Dynamic's posts about not using Alto Red frictions and steels, so what else do I need to know? I'll be doing it myself (with the assistance of a Chrysler master transmission tech) in a nice, clean, air-conditioned garage, and I'll be pressure-washing the underside of the truck and the transmission case once it's out.

 

Problems currently are no 1-2 shift unless I lift completely off the throttle, and a leaky rear seal. The kickdown lever is broken, which allows the 2nd gear band to float free above the drum.  2-3 and 3-4 are essentially normal shifts.

 

I've already got an FTI single-disc converter and a Suncoast billet governor solenoid plate and oversized/GM solenoid.

I don't realistically see the truck ever being modified to make more than 350-400hp.

 

So, what parts should I use? Does anyone make a decent, comprehensive kit that includes all the gaskets, seals, etc. in addition to the recommended Raybestos "hi-energy" clutches? What about oversized pistons/servos and accumulators? Any upgrades to 48RE hard parts that can be done while it's apart?

I have no desire or intention to open up the overdrive section of the trans.

 

So, suggestions/tips/recommendations?

My temps are fine, even pulling uphill (what qualifies as uphill in Florida is drastically different from the rest of the country) it rarely goes past 185.

As far as calling Goerend, even if I had 5 large to spend, I wouldn't call them... I'd drive 6 hours to Suncoast and let them do it.

I'm also not replacing my perfectly functional FTI single-disc converter. It is utterly preposterous to suggest that someone needs $5,000 in transmission upgrades to run RV275s and a tuner.

No one is telling you to spend 5,000. A valve body upgrade will do what you need. If you need a rebuild your better off doing it in one go is all anyone is saying. As far as the converter just use caution a single disc converter is good for about 350-400 horsepower and around 800 ft lb of torque after that it will probably slip.

Most transmission vendors will tell you to add billet here and there for the servos and I agree with them when you are doing a transmission valve body upgrade.

I mentioned call Dave and his guys because they won't push you into anything. They will simply ask a hand full of questions and give you a recommendation. They are honest people.

Edited September 14, 20159 yr by Vais01

Anyone have a contact for John at dynamic? He gave me a number awhile back, and I've left a couple of messages but haven't received a call back yet.

Anyone have a contact for John at dynamic? He gave me a number awhile back, and I've left a couple of messages but haven't received a call back yet.

Vais speaks truth.

If you do reuse parts, make sure there aren't any grit or any material in the converter. You can't clean them if they have crap in them.

Vais speaks truth.

If you do reuse parts, make sure there aren't any grit or any material in the converter. You can't clean them if they have crap in them.

You can clean them out. A good trans shop can do it for you. The key question is, will they.

Not trying to bash any company but the OP mentioned Suncoast. I've seen too many of their flexplates with over an 1/16th inch of runout. Maybe just a bad run but who knows. This does not seem like much but 1/16th over 11 to 12 inches is alot. The converter literally walks around. Just so yall know if you already don't .0625 ten thousand of an inch is equal to 1/16th.

I say this not to deter people but just be cautious. Sometimes a small thing that is overlooked can give you grief down the road.

Edited September 14, 20159 yr by Vais01

Don't all flex plates have a little slop around the center hole though to allow for what heat expansion there might be? The video I watched on flex plates all showed a little play around the torque converter. Or are you talking the outside diameter being off? Kinda hard to imagine seeing as they are most likely turned on a lathe.

Don't all flex plates have a little slop around the center hole though to allow for what heat expansion there might be? The video I watched on flex plates all showed a little play around the torque converter. Or are you talking the outside diameter being off? Kinda hard to imagine seeing as they are most likely turned on a lathe.

It wasn't the center hole that had the run out. It was run out on the axial plane so inline with the transmission. It's like looking at a bent or loose wheel on a trailer going down the road.

You can clean them out. A good trans shop can do it for you. The key question is, will they.

Not trying to bash any company but the OP mentioned Suncoast. I've seen too many of their flexplates with over an 1/16th inch of runout. Maybe just a bad run but who knows. This does not seem like much but 1/16th over 11 to 12 inches is alot. The converter literally walks around. Just so yall know if you already don't .0625 ten thousand of an inch is equal to 1/16th.

I say this not to deter people but just be cautious. Sometimes a small thing that is overlooked can give you grief down the road.

 

I haven't done it, but I agree with the bold.  All the shops I've worked with said that converters were cleanable, but it would require cutting the converter open to make sure it was "clean" and at that point, I might as well just cut it or replace it to get the stall I want anyway.  

 

What are they doing?  Just flushing on some sort of machine?

I haven't done it, but I agree with the bold. All the shops I've worked with said that converters were cleanable, but it would require cutting the converter open to make sure it was "clean" and at that point, I might as well just cut it or replace it to get the stall I want anyway.

What are they doing? Just flushing on some sort of machine?

It can be flushed while on the truck prior to disassembly. Not many do this because of added cost of labor.