Pristine CTD. Extra cab, short bed, 2wd, SLT. Factory tow/haul package, leather heated seats, heavy insulation package. Rebuilt HX 35/40, Dap injectors, full gauges, PacBrake, Dynamic Transmission vb/servos/accumulator/strut/band/triple disc. Soft tranny lines, 40k trans cooler, lift pump, gooseneck hitch (never used), class 5 tow hitch, tonneau cover, air bags, re- geared to 3.73’s, 3rd Gen brakes with 17" rims Rust free CA truck located in Chico CA, 100 miles north of Sacto. I built this to
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Price: 16000
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Location: Chico CA 95973
So, I finished the transfer case swap in my friend's 08 3500 MC this past weekend. Basically, the reason for it was I replaced the chain, gears, seals and bearings in it a year or so ago, due to what we thought was slippage of the chain. Problem disappeared for about 3 months, then returned. Only this time, it came back with a vengeance. What was actually occurring was the electronic shift motor was attempting to engage 4WD at whenever it felt like it. Last time, it was at about 70mph when it tried to switch to 4WD, all but grenading the tcase into dust.
So I Got my hands on a really good priced NV271F (Yes, Ford). Ripped it apart, freshened the bearings, seals and chains, etc, then started determining what I needed to change for it to work in the Dodge G56/5600.
The Swap works great, But there's a couple of oversights.. I used a Dodge 2004 1500 tcase shifter (it's same as all 3G trucks) and 2004 shifter boot; the boot fits perfect and is same as 2007; just pop the pocket out of the console and the boot snaps right into place. HOWEVER, the Ford's shift (top to bottom) is 2H-4H-N-4L. Dodge is 4H-2H-N-4L. So the pattern on the knob is wrong, and I can't find anything else to show the proper pattern. If I owned a 3D printer, I'd make one, but I dont. The Ford knob is a slip-on splined knob, where Dodge is a thread-on.
I also need to figure out the shifter motor wiring for the 2008. It's an 8-pin plug, but uses 5 pins. The Ford uses a standard 2-pin 4WD switch. Current issue is that "SERV 4WD" is illuminated on the dash, and the 4WD light does 'not' work (for obvious reasons). I think they are controlled by the PCM/ECM, so with the motor no longer present, I have to see if I can find out/figure out how to 'fool' it.
Thanks!
Rogan
Edited by Rogan