Hey guys, I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction here. I've helped and been helped a lot on this forum regarding my Ram 2500. 

 

I have another question and was wondering if anyone knew of a good place to check. I recently got a 2012 freightliner cascadia with a dd13 12.8 Detroit with an eaton fuller ten speed. The manual says the governer kicks in at 2000 something rpm and mine cuts all power at about 1650 no matter the gear you're in. Twice the other day as I was pulling logs up a hill in 8th it suddenly opened back up while I was bouncing off the governer and cranked right up to 2000 rpm, letting me grab one more. Any ideas why it randomly did that and how to make it do it every time I floor it per the manual? Or where to take this question?

 

Thanks. 

1 hour ago, Daveb said:

Hey guys, I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction here. I've helped and been helped a lot on this forum regarding my Ram 2500. 

 

I have another question and was wondering if anyone knew of a good place to check. I recently got a 2012 freightliner cascadia with a dd13 12.8 Detroit with an eaton fuller ten speed. The manual says the governer kicks in at 2000 something rpm and mine cuts all power at about 1650 no matter the gear you're in. Twice the other day as I was pulling logs up a hill in 8th it suddenly opened back up while I was bouncing off the governer and cranked right up to 2000 rpm, letting me grab one more. Any ideas why it randomly did that and how to make it do it every time I floor it per the manual? Or where to take this question?

 

Thanks. 

Do you have a Check Engine Light or a Malfunction Indicator Light illuminated on the dash? The symptoms you are describing is a typical engine derate cause by either an engine fault or exhaust after treatment fault. The ECM is derating the engine to protect either the engine or the $15,000 1-box from catastrophic harm. You pretty much need Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link 8 software to perform diagnostics. All Freightshaker stealerships have the software or you may get lucky and find a small independent shop like I'm in that can afford the DDDL8 licensing.

 

I'm fully equipped and I'd gladly fix it for you if you were in the area I'm in but Michigan is some distance from New Mexico. I'm Daimler certified in DD engines, Exhaust After Treatment, and DT12 Transmissions. You can usually get the fault codes off the odometer screen if you have any. The fault codes start with SPN number and end with an FMI number. I strongly recommend that the problem not be ignored if there's active fault codes because 9 times out of 10 the derate becomes so severe that you'll be doing the "5 mph drive of shame" and will end up on the back of a tow truck that adds to the already outrageous expenses for the repair.

Here's an example of a fault that will cause derate.

 

 

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Thanks for the reply. I was just living in Lansing for the last two years and just moved back out west. Too far from home...

 

There are no fault codes of any sort but I can try to have it read anyways since there could be a burned out light or such. 

 

6 hours ago, Daveb said:

Thanks for the reply. I was just living in Lansing for the last two years and just moved back out west. Too far from home...

 

There are no fault codes of any sort but I can try to have it read anyways since there could be a burned out light or such. 

 

Does it have a ABS light illuminated? Does the truck have a collision avoidance system? Does the speedometer work? I've also seen the engine behave weird with these systems when one of them are malfunctioning. 

 

More items to check on would be overhead adjustment. Intake valve lash should be .016 and exhaust valve lash should be at .024. Jake brake lash should be 4.6mm. Check to make sure that the Jake solenoids aren't sticking. The front Jake solenoid runs the front 3 cylinders and the back runs the back 3 cylinders. When 1 sticks open it causes 3 cylinders to run weak. Another item to look at is pull the hot pipe off the back of the EGR cooler, if there are any signs of fuel in the exhaust manifold, hot pipe, or EGR cooler you have mechanically failing fuel injectors. Lastly if the engine has ever been oversped past 2400 rpm there is a high chance the cam gears spun on the cam putting the engine out of time. The above issues will rarely cause a fault code but will cause the engine to run weak and not be able to obtain full range of rpm. DDEC reports are very helpful in seeing the use and abuse the engine saw over it's life to date.

 

It's a long shot but parameters may not be set correctly in the CPC or MCM. Dealer level software like Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link 8 is the only way to adjust the parameters that I know of. I suggest an Idle Speed Balance Test to test for weak cylinders and a Fuel System Integrity Check to test for low rail pressure which can be done with DDDL8.

Edited November 9, 20186 yr by 04Mach1

Thanks for that. The engine starts and idles perfect. And seems to accelerate smooth with tons of power right up to ~1630rpm. It seems to run perfect up to that point, then seems to shut off just like a governer on any other engine. I'll look into your ideas. 

It also has 319k and uses no oil. 

It may be just as simple as incorrect parameters but I still recommend a thorough inspection.

 

 

This DD15 got a $50k rebuild due to bad injectors which caused it to run away to 4500 rpm. The costumers complaint didn't vary much from yours up until the engine went boom. 3 mechanics looked in various states looked at it before the over speed spun some bearings. The only major part reused was the block.