For Sale - 2006 Dodge Ram 2500- Flatbed for long box bed Winch bumper Flat Bed for Long Box 3rd generation Cummins Tootlbox are included with key I have a flatbed for 3rd Generation dodge Cummins. This flatbed comes with a gooseneck hitch already in the bed. The winch bumper is part of the set. Tootlbox have a key to lock and unlock all box a single key. There is rust starting and electrical will have to be sorted out on your own.
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Price: $1,000.00
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Location: New Meadows, Idaho
(Copied From TDG.com)
These are the steps we went though to put the injector nozzles in the injectors. I will make this simple and to the point. It is the easiest. Might as well save the money from complete injectors and assemble the nozzles your self and then put the money you saved into something else for your truck. Just an idea. Good luck.
-Tools needed: 3/8" inchpound torque wrench, screw driver, 15 mm deep socket, vise, 2 small pieces of flat wood (3" long x 1" tall), clean rags, cup of diesel, and toothbrush.
-First I took a buddies complete injectors that he had removed from his 24 valve the previous week.
-I put one injector inbetween the two pieces of wood and sandwiched it in the vise. Nozzle facing up. It has to be pretty tite or it will just turn in the vise. You use the wood as a cushion for the injector you dont want to mess it up.
-I then used the screw driver underneath the injector in the slot of the injector to wedge it self up against the vise to keep it from rotating while untorqueing and then later retorqueing.
Injector in Vise with screwdriver to hold it:
-I untorqued the injector housing off the injector and it came off w/ 350 inch pounds of torque. I experianced this on 4 of the injectors so that is what I retorqued all of them to when reassembling.
Injector housing untorqued at 350 inch pounds:
When you take the nozzle housing off the injector body DO NOT TAKE ANYTHING ELSE OFF THE INJECTOR LEAVE IT AS IT IS!!!!!!
-Once the housing came off the injector I set the needle aside and tapped the housing on the flat part of the vise. Let inertia cause the nozzle to come out. That way you don't mess up the stock nozzles.
-DO NOT HIT THE NOZZLE TIP!!!! This way you will not mess up the brass washer on the nozzle side or the nozzle it self. Do not pry on the brass washer!!!! You need to reuse it.
-Once loose, you can wiggle the brass washer off w/ your hands and remove the nozzle from the housing.
Injector housing tap to get the nozzle to fall out:
-Here it is all laid out.
Nozzle, Nozzle housing, brass washer all apart:
-Clean the nozzle housing out and the brass washer off with the diesel fuel you have in the jar using the tooth brush.
-Once done cleaning I reassembled it.
-I found it was easiest to put the needle back on the injector in the vise.
-Then the new nozzle on that. Line up the two holes at the base of the nozzle with the 2 studs sticking out of the part on the injector. It only fits one way. They are offset. Do not force down.
-Put the housing over all that to hold it all together and tighten it all back together. I tightened mine to the 350 inchpounds that they untorqued at.(I am not sure if this is correct but that is what mine were torqued at so I just put them back to what it was.)
-Put the brass washer back on.
Injector in Vise with screwdriver to hold it:
-Remove from vise and wood and you are all done swapping a nozzle.
-Wrap then up to keep them clean until you are putting them in your truck.
-It is recomended to have the injectors all pop tested but the place I got my nozzles from (Go Fast Engineering) said that they have had great luck with the Edge nozzles and never have problems with them. I would probably be fine just putting it all together.
- I ended up putting the injectors in without pop testing and they worked fine. Now my tranny really hates me and the EGT jump up way faster. WOOOO HOOOO!!!!!!!