Pristine CTD. Extra cab, short bed, 2wd, SLT. Factory tow/haul package, leather heated seats, heavy insulation package. Rebuilt HX 35/40, Dap injectors, full gauges, PacBrake, Dynamic Transmission vb/servos/accumulator/strut/band/triple disc. Soft tranny lines, 40k trans cooler, lift pump, gooseneck hitch (never used), class 5 tow hitch, tonneau cover, air bags, re- geared to 3.73’s, 3rd Gen brakes with 17" rims Rust free CA truck located in Chico CA, 100 miles north of Sacto. I built this to
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Price: 16000
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Location: Chico CA 95973
I found another secret I've got to share with the group. For guys with manuals or not using the transmission temp sender. Remove the test plug on the oil filter housing and then install the transmission temperature sender.
The secret found.
If you want to find out if your over advancing timing its is super simple. Measure the engine oil temperature. When I started I was roughly +10°F over the coolant temperature. I was starting to test MPG in different RPM ranges. Found the lower bands tend to run hot oil wise and tend to be a bit low in MPG number still. After figuring out a new timing map now I'm roughly 20°F below coolant temperature on the flat highway run. If coolant is 197°F it can run 178°F to 181°F in oil temperature now. Since advancing the timing tends to burn more in the cylinder the block coolant was rising quite a bit and trapping more heat in the engine oil. Dropped 2° of timing in the 1,500 RPM range and this flipped the other direction to -20°F cooler. Worth it to install the sensor in the engine oil port.
Remember... When you seeing heat that is a percentage of work energy turned into heat. The more you can trim off the heat in every device right down to the rear axle this means more power being put to the ground efficiently.
Edited by Mopar1973Man