So here's a weird one (or maybe it's not) and if it's been covered already, please point me to the thread because I couldn't find it.

 

For years my brake pedal has been slow to return to full "off" position. Whether the truck is running or off makes no difference, if I push on the pedal even a little bit, it'll take a second or two for the brake lights to turn back off. It doesn't affect the way the truck drives at all, the brakes definitely release, it's just that last tiny bit to where it catches the brake light switch. The only time it matters is when I'm pulling a trailer with electric brakes. I have to remember to let the brake off a second or two before starting to let the clutch out or else the trailer fights back and it's a violent take off.

 

I've not done one bit of troubleshooting. For the most part I remember the delay when towing. But I curious: what's worn out? At 200k this truck has only ever had pads/rotors/drums/shoes (and the Chevy 3500 rear cylinder upgrade) so I'll have no trouble believing any brake component is worn out. Same time, I don't wanna just throw parts at it for no reason.

 

It's not the switch, if I press in the pedal just a bit and release I can make the brake lights go on and off as fast as I want. It's only if the brakes have engaged at all. I'm definitely due for a brake fluid exchange, but I can't imagine old fluid could be causing it.

 

Any ideas?

Possibly the the soft lines are restricting the fluid return when applied firmly. They do tend to wear with time and cause some dragging. It is one of the items on my soon to do list with caliper rebuild. Had to put that on the back burner while trying to figure out my electrical glitch.

I think its also a hydroboost thing. Replaced my booster and fluid thinking the same thing, no change. 

 

Dripley might be right too.. want to do stainless and braided lines eventually.

Ah ha, brake lines make sense. If the rubber gets swollen it could restrict fluid travelling back up. Sounds like a good place to start.

 

I'm not sure why it would be hydroboost? Wouldn't a failing booster make it harder to press the brakes and have no affect on releasing them?

 

 

Maybe this?

 

https://www.sstubes.com/collections/complete-brake-hose-kit/products/hsk0050ss-97-01-dodge-ram-4wd-with-rear-drum-complete-brake-hose-kit-3-pcs-braided-stainless

Edited July 21, 20213 yr by sleezy

Depends on where the failing happens. If the spool and/or bore is worn, it can allow leakage and pressure where its not supposed to be.

 

That kit should work 

37 minutes ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

If the spool and/or bore is worn, it can allow leakage and pressure where its not supposed to be.

 

That makes sense. Now that I'm thinking about it, I don't love that my stopping is relying on 20 year old rubber hoses, so I'm going to take care of that first and if the delay is still there I'll look at the hydroboost.

 

@Silverwolf2691 did you say that you have the same thing going on, where your brake lights stay on for a bit after releasing the pedal?

I do, I've chalked it up to the design of the hydroboost system. It happened before I swapped boosters and did the same thing after. Replaced the booster with a remaned dodge one.  At a normal stop its not something I notice due the the standard tranny. I'm usually off the brake and on the clutch ready to go by the time my light turns green.

 

I thought something was wrong because of the slow return and relatively hard pedal, having just come from a gas ram 1500. Relatively effortless pedal on those. Even my 2019 2500 has an easier brake pedal than the second gen

 

2 hours ago, sleezy said:

I'm not sure why it would be hydroboost? Wouldn't a failing booster make it harder to press the brakes and have no affect on releasing them?

 

The other thing is, usually the other failure of a hydroboost is "self-applying" brakes. I don't remember what the exact circumstances for this to occur were but its the more common issue I think

 

Edited July 21, 20213 yr by Silverwolf2691

3 minutes ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

I'm usually off the brake and on the clutch ready to go by the time my light turns green.

 

Yeah the only time it's an issue is if I'm too quick letting off the clutch after letting off the brake. Typically it's if I'm starting out on an uphill. And again, ONLY if I'm towing with electric brakes, which my new 33' toy hauler has. And they're new and very grabby and it's a jolt when it happens.

 

6 minutes ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

The other thing is, usually the other failure of a hydroboost is "self-applying" brakes. I don't remember what the exact circumstances for this to occur were but its the more common issue I think

 

Definitely not my problem. It's just the stupid tail light delay that causes the trailer brakes to stay on longer than I want. Brakes themselves perform perfect.

3 minutes ago, sleezy said:

Yeah the only time it's an issue is if I'm too quick letting off the clutch after letting off the brake. Typically it's if I'm starting out on an uphill. And again, ONLY if I'm towing with electric brakes, which my new 33' toy hauler has. And they're new and very grabby and it's a jolt when it happens.

 

what kind of controller do you have? There are 2 kinds that I know of, 1 is a progressive type I think and it just starts ramping the trailer brakes up to the max you set even if you are just maintaining speed down a slight grade, its gonna ramp all the way up. 2 is called proportional, it senses the deceleration and applies the trailer brakes accordingly. so you can continue to maintain speed down hill and not have the trailer suddenly drag you under. I think you have the progressive type because that's what I have in my 01 and its got the same kind of jerk when letting out and getting going too quick.   

Mine is proportional. It fades off as I come to a stop and once completely stopped for a second or two it grabs hard to hold the trailer until I let go of the brakes. It's smart but in this case is working against me.

 

This is my controller: https://www.tekonsha.com/product/90195_trailer-brake-control-proportional

Any way to turn that feature off with it being so smart? Might be cheaper than a brake system overhaul.. unless you need it lol.

(err maybe not a good idea.. that put all the load onto the truck at a stop then..)

 

Unfortunately I'm in a similar boat as you then so I think we need some other minds on this one.. 

37 minutes ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

Any way to turn that feature off with it being so smart? Might be cheaper than a brake system overhaul.. unless you need it lol.

 

That occurred to me.

 

38 minutes ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

(err maybe not a good idea.. that put all the load onto the truck at a stop then..)

 

So did that.

 

40 minutes ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

I think we need some other minds on this one.. 

 

Yeah, where is everybody?

 

I don't mind at all spending ~$100 to replace 20 year old rubber with braided SS, it's a no brainer. But beyond that I don't wanna spend the money and wrench time tossing parts at it at random.