Pristine CTD. Extra cab, short bed, 2wd, SLT. Factory tow/haul package, leather heated seats, heavy insulation package. Rebuilt HX 35/40, Dap injectors, full gauges, PacBrake, Dynamic Transmission vb/servos/accumulator/strut/band/triple disc. Soft tranny lines, 40k trans cooler, lift pump, gooseneck hitch (never used), class 5 tow hitch, tonneau cover, air bags, re- geared to 3.73’s, 3rd Gen brakes with 17" rims Rust free CA truck located in Chico CA, 100 miles north of Sacto. I built this to
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Price: 16000
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Location: Chico CA 95973
Yeah, I know this is the same vehicle as the clutch switch but I wanted to split these two topics up for explanation reasons. Now I will tell you that if you have a problem keeping the voltage regulator and they just don't last very long like in the case of this truck the first regulator failed just about instantly. The second voltage regulator failed after about 5 minutes and fail with overcharging. Now my client admits he bought an Amazon Alternator. I was smart and had the alternator test before installing the regulators in the first place. I ohm test all the electrical with a DVM. All good. The problem is that even though the alternator passed the test the only thing I can see is the field winding has a ohm measurement of 60 ohms. I think this is a bit too low causing the field to draw more power than normal being the regulator circuit can't handle said load it fries out and shorts the green wire to the ground which in turn now produces high charge voltage. Being the blue wire is keyed hot +12V power passing to the alternator the only control is the ground.
So I'm at the point of replacing both the alternator and the voltage regulator again. I'm supposed to have the alternator in today at the local Chevron Station. Let's see what happens with a new alternator.