Looking for experience with water methanol. Done a lot of reading on it but haven't seen anyone do what I'm thinking of doing. (Probably because it's not smart for most people)

I would like to try and experiment with running no intercooler and using only water methanol to control temps.

Im hoping this will allow for higher inlet temps at low load and a shorter better flowing intake side netting some better mpgs. Im really curious how the quadzilla will play with water methanol.

According to my math the intercooler removes 3000btu per min at 30 psi of boost. Water removes 970 btu per lbs methanol a little less but flashes at a lower temp. So I should need about 1400ml worth of injection to keep 30 psi cool Im thinking of running 2 stages each 750 ml one at 10 psi one at 20 and drilling and tapping the volute of the turbo for the location. (Should be the hottest part of the system and it gives similar results as running pre turbo without the risk of destroying your impeller. Im hoping to incorporate a section of clear tygon tubing or plastic before the intake horn to see how much is actually flashing to gas. And I'll fab up a intake horn and clock the turbo to run similar to how 1st gens did it. Right over the valve cover. I'm not shure how cylinder distribution will work and might have to center or run dual intake horns to get air flow evenly distributed.

I know slead pullers run crazy pressure (I'm pretty certain pressure washers coupled to a starter motor) but I don't know how much they flow. Is their a saturation limit to how much I can inject? How do I tell when I'm getting close? Hydrolocking is not something I'd like to do lol. What inlet temp is the cummins most happy with?

Old non intercooled first gens made 10-15 psi with no intercooler so I'm curious with a more efficient turbo a better flowing head and quadzilla what's going to happen!

Let me know what yall think and thanks for reading.

I'll bite. So is near zero boost is most efficient way to run. Yeah with a tweak on the retard you can control boost. Yeah with boost there is a rise in temperature. Let me dig for my turbo output calculator. It shows temperature change etc. I'll dig that up for you.

I'm trapped with a HX35W styled turbo to keep my exhaust brake but if you could calm the temperature in your theory I could band-aid Beast with water/meth mix setup. Yeah 7x0.010 injectors can get hot.

Output calc would be great. Best numbers i could find were off a foum guy quoted his turbo outlet was 312 degrees I did the math with 100 degree intercooler outlet and 900 cfm of flow. Moparman you are probably the best person to ask what is the happiest intake temp range for these engines?

80 to 140°F is optimal for MPG and daily driver.

Thanks that gives me a good point to aim for. The boiling point of methanol is 150 so I think I'll be able to get it close. May have to tack some fins on the intake horn or run a small inline intercooler

Here is found it

https://www.stealth316.com/2-turbotemp.htm

OK so looking at my math I messed up twice but somehow got close. Lol cfm for a hx 35 is listed as close to 600cfm Instead of 900cfm. And my temp was off that output calc was really helpful. It's showing closer to 450 at 30 psi. But the net change of all it is 3700 btus instead of 3000. I still think this is worth testing. One of the engineers at work made the comment that mass is mass and it will either be burned and converted to energy (win) or will be extra mass leaving and help spool the turbo ( win) and that water has a expansion rate of 1600 to 1 when it converts to steam. So curious on how this will effect spool up.

Well have to pull the engine due to a broken head stud and I think im gonna go ahead and convert over to non intercooled and run the water methanol and see how this does. What do you all recommend on injector sizing? I have 200 125 and 50 hp sticks to chose from.

I would highly suggest against that idea being manifold temperature could be as high as 400°F without a intercooler. There is a video of a Ford diesel with pre and post intercooler temps 400°F is easy to reach.

Edited August 26Aug 26 by Mopar1973Man

Absolutely its dangerous

But the old 89-91 cummins were non intercooled. Granted they only made 160hp but many got turned up although they also recommend running intercoolers once they got much above stock. I think between the water methanol and the quadzilla ill let least be able to keep the truck from killing itself. Im gonna start with the 50hp injectors and if I cant keep intake temps below 300 degrees ill insert a small water to air intercooler and if that dont work ill convert back to factory.

Has anyone used the pusher style intakes? ( with the cross air) they have a somewhat novel idea of removing the freeze plug back by cylinder 6 and running tubing off the intake horn to it im looking at ways to ensure good air distribution and this came up. Short of milling off the intake shelf its one of the only options it see. Is it worth trying?

Be careful about this design. I still don't suggest this path.

I don't think there is many gains to that whole intake system unless you are

WOT all the time. I'm still assuming this is a daily driver street truck and not a strict race track truck, correct? Being a highway truck is going to be partial throttle most time. So boost is going to be low majority of the time.

EGT can be controlled by timing. If you're looking for cooler temperatures, then you'll be milling the intake off to remove the coolant passage in the bottom. (1/2" pipe plug near the IAT sensor) Which is weird, being I've changed to a 200℉ thermostat from a 6.7L and am using custom timing and able to keep EGTs in check. At least in my design heat is my friend giving me better ignition quality but not over 140℉ intake temp ever even towing.

Problem I see is the turbo is going to be hotter nearly 400℉ output temperature heading to the intake without a intercooler to cool the air before entering the engine.

This link should help you figure out temperatures. Just

https://www.stealth316.com/2-turbotemp.htm

IC Efficiency as a zero if your removing the intercooler.

IC Efficiency as about 85 percent value forthe stock cooler.

Will absolutely be careful with it. This is indeed my daily driver and If im being honest with myself at all I will be converting back to a intercooler when this doesn't work. But I have to try and fail or else I'll always wonder.

1 minute ago, yohon said:

But I have to try and fail or else I'll always wonder.

Ok. I get your wanting to learn why it won't work. Don't make any mods that cannot be returned back from. Like milling the intake off.