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Looking for experience with water methanol. Done a lot of reading on it but haven't seen anyone do what I'm thinking of doing. (Probably because it's not smart for most people)

I would like to try and experiment with running no intercooler and using only water methanol to control temps.

Im hoping this will allow for higher inlet temps at low load and a shorter better flowing intake side netting some better mpgs. Im really curious how the quadzilla will play with water methanol.

According to my math the intercooler removes 3000btu per min at 30 psi of boost. Water removes 970 btu per lbs methanol a little less but flashes at a lower temp. So I should need about 1400ml worth of injection to keep 30 psi cool Im thinking of running 2 stages each 750 ml one at 10 psi one at 20 and drilling and tapping the volute of the turbo for the location. (Should be the hottest part of the system and it gives similar results as running pre turbo without the risk of destroying your impeller. Im hoping to incorporate a section of clear tygon tubing or plastic before the intake horn to see how much is actually flashing to gas. And I'll fab up a intake horn and clock the turbo to run similar to how 1st gens did it. Right over the valve cover. I'm not shure how cylinder distribution will work and might have to center or run dual intake horns to get air flow evenly distributed.

I know slead pullers run crazy pressure (I'm pretty certain pressure washers coupled to a starter motor) but I don't know how much they flow. Is their a saturation limit to how much I can inject? How do I tell when I'm getting close? Hydrolocking is not something I'd like to do lol. What inlet temp is the cummins most happy with?

Old non intercooled first gens made 10-15 psi with no intercooler so I'm curious with a more efficient turbo a better flowing head and quadzilla what's going to happen!

Let me know what yall think and thanks for reading.

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  • yohon
    yohon

    OK so looking at my math I messed up twice but somehow got close. Lol cfm for a hx 35 is listed as close to 600cfm Instead of 900cfm. And my temp was off that output calc was really helpful. It's show

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  • Owner

I'll bite. So is near zero boost is most efficient way to run. Yeah with a tweak on the retard you can control boost. Yeah with boost there is a rise in temperature. Let me dig for my turbo output calculator. It shows temperature change etc. I'll dig that up for you.

I'm trapped with a HX35W styled turbo to keep my exhaust brake but if you could calm the temperature in your theory I could band-aid Beast with water/meth mix setup. Yeah 7x0.010 injectors can get hot.

  • Author

Output calc would be great. Best numbers i could find were off a foum guy quoted his turbo outlet was 312 degrees I did the math with 100 degree intercooler outlet and 900 cfm of flow. Moparman you are probably the best person to ask what is the happiest intake temp range for these engines?

  • Author

Thanks that gives me a good point to aim for. The boiling point of methanol is 150 so I think I'll be able to get it close. May have to tack some fins on the intake horn or run a small inline intercooler

  • Author

OK so looking at my math I messed up twice but somehow got close. Lol cfm for a hx 35 is listed as close to 600cfm Instead of 900cfm. And my temp was off that output calc was really helpful. It's showing closer to 450 at 30 psi. But the net change of all it is 3700 btus instead of 3000. I still think this is worth testing. One of the engineers at work made the comment that mass is mass and it will either be burned and converted to energy (win) or will be extra mass leaving and help spool the turbo ( win) and that water has a expansion rate of 1600 to 1 when it converts to steam. So curious on how this will effect spool up.