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We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features. Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.
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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC
We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features. Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.
I recently inspected my ball joints & they are toast. All the boots are torn/missing, the lowers have about 1/4" play, and the uppers aren't far behind. Not sure if they are OEM, but all the aftermarket ball joints I have seen come with a zerk fitting & these are sealed units (190K on the truck). I can't afford to pay a shop to do the job so I plan to do it myself. I have a fair ammount of experience in auto repair, replaced ball joints on smaller vehicles, and have some front end experience with this truck; had to replace the front rotors/hubs when I bought the truck - yea, those 100lb cast iron lumps! I'm pretty well tooled-up (jacks & stands, air tools, 3/4" drive socket set, etc) but what concerns me is getting the old ball joints out. My truck came from up-state NY so there is no shortage of rust on the suspension. I'm planning to borrow a removal tool set from Advance or Auto-Zone, hoping it will have enough oats to do the job. I've always had a tussle trying to unseat the tapered shanks of tie rod ends & ball joints out of steering knuckles using a pickle fork. Guess what I'm looking for is any tips, lessons learned, been there-done that-got the knuckles to prove it type of advice before I dive in.
I was looking on RockAuto and it seems that Moog (Problem Solver) & Raybestos are the two premium replacements, but their design varies significantly. The Moog use what they call a "gusher bushing" which is a metal insert to support the ball with slots to allow uniform flow of grease. The Raybestos use a graphite-impregnated polimer insert to support the ball. Each say their design is better than the others' - open to opinions.
I realize that most folks here talk about their 4WD ball joint battles. If there is interest, I can take pics & do a write-up.
Thanks in advance for your interest & help!
Joe in St Louis