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CUMMINSDIESELPWR last won the day on February 8 2019

CUMMINSDIESELPWR had the most liked content!

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    north carolina

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  1. i messed up two balljoint press tools doing mine, i even used heat and dry ice.... still boogered threads on the presses (cheap advance auto rentals) expect a days work to do them on your own... and a lot of cussing
  2. when i replaced my vp, i accidentally bent the bracket and never put it on. that was about 40,000 miles and a engine rebuild ago and no issues. eventually ill get another to install...
  3. i do my oil changes "around" 10k miles. use rotella with new filter. no problems. i dont tow either and at the rate of such low miles i drive it i only have to change every few years lol
  4. im sure they do however ive not ready anything so far about fuel boss and mine has had zero issues since install back in 2010. hope you get it sorted though.
  5. time to get a fuel boss and never worry about electricity again
  6. i think i may need to get new drums as well, the original ones were pretty marred up when i changed the shoes last and might be a contributing factor in them not seating well. ill make sure to run the adjusters to where i feel drag then. thanks!
  7. so long ago i replaced the shoes on the rear drums. but for the life of me i just never got them set correctly and they never really held the truck (i always park in gear) ive tried looking and cant find a comprehensive procedure for this so does anyone have a proper drum brake procedure to get them properly adjusted, i know how to replace them and such, just getting the adjusters set correctly then adjust the cable to the pedal (i already messed with it long ago) i will be getting new shoes and doing it over again correctly this time. thanks
  8. sounds like the torque converter lockup labeling is reversed on the switch.
  9. fuel boss. and the owner of fuel boss said he had a belt on his for over 100,000 miles when i bought mine back in 2011. i have had zero issues with mine since. i have 2 spare belts $7 each just in case but never needed them yet.
  10. when i changed fluid in my 5600, i filled all from the top through the shift housing +1qt. i dont tow so im not worried but having that extra quart keeping 6th happy either way is nice
  11. So my batteries were new 7 years ago.... they need to be replaced. they dont like holding a charge for long (couple months or less) and i think they are actually mechanically failing. I have had a battery tender on them for the past month in winterize mode to keep them fresh but even that showed limitations, as when i started today i could tell they were not as healthy as they should be. i went to the dump to drop off metal and while there i had to shut down for 5 minutes waiting the scale lady and when i restarted it just cranked over for about 1.5-2 seconds longer then fired up (i noticed no dash power until it fired). as i moved to the metal shed at the dump it was not happy at all (on a downward incline) its like someone was switching ALL power off to the entire truck for a half second then back on. it did this 4 more times while idling and sitting still (all power dropped, dash went dead as did the engine and when it came back there was a cel that cleared and all was fine) i got home no problem and did an electrical test. all lights and accessory lights on fan etc etc "full electrical load" and was reading 13.72vdc on the main batt terminal and .080vAC on the alternator terminal. I know the batteries are in desperate need of replacing and i think they are failing internally (opening the electrical path in the battery/broken plate) AND the alternator which is original needs to be rebuilt/replaced. I will follow up on this when i get the funds to do it all... I will also check all grounds and connections for corrosion to the PDC and such to eliminate that. since i had to dig for the info 2 Methods of Testing your Alternator for AC Noise 1. Remove the 140 amp alternator fuse in the PDC. Then unplug the field lead of the rear of the alternator. DO NOT remove the heavy charge lead. This was handled by removing the alternator fuse. Now go for test drive and see if the torque converter lockup issues occur. If no torque converter lockup issues then the alternator is at fault for AC noise issues. I highly suggest you verify by having the alternator bench tested and or do test #2 below. 2. Remove the turbo intake tube. Now using a high-quality digital volt meter like Fluke or Extech. The DVM should have an AC scale capable of reading down to millivolts AC. If not you'll see measured AC volts in the range of 29 to 31 volts which is erred. AC Noise Voltage levels Normal - 0.01 to 0.03 AC Volts Marginal - 0.05 to 0.09 AC Volts (Some folks have reported random or odd behavior occurring at this low of voltage) Fail - 0.1 AC Volts and above. NOTE: W-T ground wire mod will make the AC noise much lower typical reading around 10mV AC to 20mV AC is Normal past about 40mV is a fail. Factory wiring is going to remain higher. Highly suggested doing the W-T ground wire mod. ill buy the rebuild kit for the alternator
  12. one volcanic eruption undoes a years worth of CO2 amongst other pollutants the eruption emits... its all a money grab, just like giving a thumbs up=one prayer... doesnt do jack $h!t.... its all a make you feel good money scheme
  13. check voltage coming off the alternator when hot and under electrical load, possible ac spikes cooking ecu...
  14. id be afraid of the valve being opened by some punk thinking he is funny or someone getting back at me because they got butthurt somehow. and i offroad so not for me.
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