Great work!

You can get a balanced and ready to go center section for less than 400. If you rebuild check for wear in the bore where the seals set. End play causes the shaft to contact the seals which causes them to momentarily spin in the housing causing wear then a groove forms.

Just wore it out. The ball's and springs and the notches on the shift rod are all shot. Sometimes the housing part that hold the balls wear. I had to weld and re-grind notches on my old bulldozer shifter. Because its obsolete.

Should have a fault code then for cam or crank sensor problem. Try a different OBD tool. Try unpluging an engine sensor and make sure your code reader detects it.

Do you have a delayed wait to start light? If so that could be ECM dying. Does the oil and temp gauges keep working when the Tach quits, they take a while to go to zero if there is a comm fail. Check if the alternator is charging when the tach zeros out use a voltmeter on the battery. ECM is responsible for tach, oil and temp gauge. It also tells the PCM that the engine is running.

Auto or manual tranny? Could be trans fluid not oil

Check the control cable for sticking or frayed wire and make sure the return spring on the tranny is good. Also check for dirt, mud, snow packed in the cable area. While your under there unplug the tranny wiring and clean connectors. You might try swapping the trans relay in the PDC with one of the other ones. Did you relocate the PCM ground with the WT mod? That part of the mod is very important.

Any fault codes?

Sometimes the injection pump key gets smashed. The shaft is tapered and the key might not have aligned with the gear when installed. That causes the timing to be off a little bit.

The 4 wires that run down the back of the VP go the the injection solenoid in the center of the injector lines the lower solenoid at the bottom rear of the VP is the timing control solenoid. If any of those wires short to each other or ground out it's usually bad news for the VP. Unburned fuel causes white smoke. If fuel is leaked or sprayed into the cylinder too early or too late after the compression peak you get white smoke.

Pull the exhaust manifold off and check for oil residue in the ports. You could run it that way too and see which cylinders smoke.

Hopefully a 12 valve guru will reply. The last one I tampered with just did the modified washer thing found on Google or YouTube can't remember but it only had the 2 spring setup and worked out great no stalling or bucking. The shift point is controlled by the transmission valve body and won't have a noticeable speed difference but your engine will power thru and not start refueling at 2700 RPM.

Premium models have an amplifier built on to the back of each door speaker. The amps have to be powered. Or you can replace the speakers with normal ones.

Dirty air filter, restricted fuel supply ie fuel filter or lift pump. Watergate not closed all the way, bad turbo or clogged exhaust. MAP sensor.

I had a dump truck that would eat up alternators. I finally rigged up the switch that ran the electric lift so that it would shut off the alternator while dumping. Solved the problem.

They are actually avalanche rated. Which means the makers actually bothered to measure it. The it being how repetitive and severe the voltage spikes can be in the normally non conducting state and still the device can survive. Basically means more robust and bragging rights for the maker. Most non avalanche rated devices just have an absolute spec and thou shall not exceed it, but you may get lucky a few times.