Great work!

Call the shop that's going to shorten it. They will tell you how they want it measured. That's what I do.

Ratchet straps are great to change tranny. Better than a jack allows easy movement for aligning bolts. The front driveshaft is a pain you'll want an impact gun and long extensions 15 mm IRRC its clocked too only lines up one way. A 3 foot extension with a wobble socket makes things easier. The top nuts for the transfer case are a pain too a curved or cut off wrench helps. The cross member has to go UP then back to come out . Leave the 4x4 lever in the boot. Just unbolt from tranny. Us a small crow foot pry bar to pop out the linkage. Be careful not to pinch wires in bell housing when install

I have a similar problem. I replaced the center seat with a sub woofer and shoved the module under it. After a half hour of driving it will lock the seat belts. I have to shut down for a few minutes to reset it. It is a bad setup without the module the seat belts won't protect you.

Very nice. Congratulations

Maxim 9924 use for 2 wire RPM sensor. "DIV / 2" : Sorry for that. Arduio is 10 bit ADC or maybe 8 bit (I can not remember) if so then ×4 to get in range of actuator. The actuator may have current sensing and pulsing encoder to detect limits of vanes you may need to assemble to turbo for calibration to work. I don't use a CAN shield. I use a MCP 2515 based board on amazon form China names vary SMAKN or NyRen. It has a different crystal than most shields so the library will need a different define or setting. I don't use a CAN library either. You can sk

Just curious have you done APPS calibration procedure? Then do a stare and compare of the scans and live data. There could be some gain/ Offset values saved in the ECM.

Is rpm sensor 2 or 3 wire type? Try toggling LED on uno and connect to scope for debugging. Toggle LED in the CAN send funtion to test. Try short cutting the code by sending a pot reading to CAN. Example final_vane_position = (analog.read(A0) / 2); where your pot connects.

Metal Fuel line likes to crack or rot right at the top of tank.

Unfortunately the wires going to the timing and injection solenoids will deteriorate they are aviation grade wire with teflon insulation but they still go bad. The timing solenoid likes to go bare right were it enters. it's at the bottom and very hard to get at. You can try heat shrink or liquid tape gasket RTV will work too. Be careful if the injection wires short together very long it will kill the electronics on top of the vp. See picture.

You need to limit the value of the variable: final_vane_position right before the CAN send function so that only valid values are sent. So that if something goes wrong while tinkering. Insert this: final_vane_position = constrain(final_vane_position, 40, 960); // prevent non valid position data Just before line: byte lo_byte = lowByte( blah blah); Try that. You can hack up an lcd.print(drive or whatever); to lcd.print(final_vane_position); to actually see the value.

My notes show a 5 volt square wave on the gry/black wire at 2x the RPM. You could try a downloading a function generator app for your phone and cut up some headphone cables and connect it to the wire. May have to cut it to prevent the ECM from loading down the signal. Set the function gen to square wave 5volts and 30 HZ. Output that on both left and right channels red and white are the signals and the bare shield connects to ground. I have not tried it but it might work.

2000

I changed my cab because of rust the doner was a crashed 1500 one year newer. Nothing was the same even the door connectors were different because of the optional radio. Swapped all wiring including the taillight harness and added cab lights.

These trucks are prone to electrical noise and interference due to wiring layout and design mistakes. First re terminate the battery terminal connections they need to be clean and tight. All the ground connections on the cab and engine need checked. Measure for AC voltage from the alternator or get it checked. Consider doing th WT ground mod search for WT ground mod.

Years ago I used a piece of clear hose about 10 feet long and ran from each bleeder to the master cylinder and just kept pumping away. In my case the porportioning valve was stuck. I took it apart and put it back together but then it leaked so I bought a new one.