Got my studs in the mail today! Popped it open to look it over...

 

I have a couple questions. Instructions say to chase the threads. Where can I get a chaser? Auto parts store?

 

Do any of our studs protrude into the water jackets?

 

Should I use Loctite?

 

The studs are hand tightened, then the "Nuts" are torqued?

 

Says to incrementally torque in three steps and make a final torque to 125 ft. lbs. What do I make the first 2 rounds for in torque?

 

Also included is an illustration showing that I have to machine the rocker cover at stud 24, is this necessary?

 

Anything else I need to know about installing these?

 

(D'oh! Just realized I said AEP not ARP...)

Edited December 10, 201410 yr by hex0rz

Well I've done 6 sets of studds including mine. Trucks ranged from 175k - 225k and none have had any issues as of yet. Mine was at 186k and I'm at 211k now. Still no issues on mine. How many mile are on your truck?

 

Approx. 215k miles... When I spoke to the guy, I told him some people have had their head gaskets blow, no matter how they installed them. I said maybe his reason is why it occured? I really dunno how this whole theory chalks up though. Maybe the same principle of doing a fluid flush on a dying tranny?

 

no doubt   having the head off  is  the most  'sanitary' way of   doing the studs..

 

lots of  guys  have done it   with head on,   one stud at a time,  with  good  results.         Find or make  a  long  extension for a  blow gun, and  put it  clear down each  hole... clear to the bottom.      That should  get any loose  crud  that may have  fallen down into there.   You  can't spend too much time  doing this! 

Sometimes   even with the head off,   and  I don't have  a  chasing tap on hand,    I'll   shoot  some   sort of   cleaner,   brake cleaner or   even  a  penetrating oil...  let it soak,  and  blow the snot out of it..   Do it  until   the  fluid  coming back at your face  (yep.. gotta go somewhere)     is   clean.   Just make sure  it's ALL (dirt and fluid)  is    out of the hole!

ARP   had  a  snippet  in their  FAQ:s:      Sometimes    a   steel shim gasket  may  be just a  tad 'off',  and  when  the stud is  screwed into it's hole,   there's  a chance  of   barking the threads  as  it's   run down...  Me  personally,  I'm more worried about the  rust, carbon,  that  is  stuck to the  bore of the  head..(where  bolt or stud goes through)  and   how much of  THAT  gets  knocked  into the  threaded part  as  the new fastener is   installed.

 

I will be cleaning each hole that I can. I'm also going to use a wooden skewer if possible to measure the depth and then use it to mark the stud so I can get an idea if its bottomed out or not.