Mopar1973Man

Flash point DefinitionThe flash point of a flammable liquid is the lowest temperature at which it can form an ignitable mixture in air. At this temperature the vapor may cease to burn when the source of ignition is removed. A slightly higher temperature, the fire point, is defined as the temperature at which the vapor continues to burn after being ignited. Neither of these parameters are related to the temperatures of the ignition source or of the burning liquid, which are much higher. The flash point is often used as one descriptive characteristic of liquid fuel, but it is also used to describe liquids that are not used intentionally as fuels.(gasoline) is designed for use in an engine which is driven by a spark. The fuel should be premixed with air within its flammable limits and heated above its flash point, then ignited by the spark plug. The fuel should not preignite in the hot engine. Therefore, gasoline is required to have a low flash point and a high autoignition temperature.Diesel is designed for use in a high-compression engine. Air is compressed until it has been heated above the autoignition temperature of diesel; then the fuel is injected as a high-pressure spray, keeping the fuel-air mix within the flammable limits of diesel. There is no ignition source. Therefore, diesel is required to have a high flash point and a low autoignition temperature.Petrol: Flash point: > -43 °C (-45 °F [negative, below freezing point of water at +32 F]) Autoignition temperature: 246 °C (475 °F) Diesel: Flash point: >62 °C (143 °F) Autoignition temperature: 210 °C (410 °F) Jet Fuel: Flash Point: >38 °C (100 °F) Autoignition Temperature: 210 °C (410 °F) Kerosene: Flash point: >38-72 °C (100-162 °F) Autoignition temperature: 220 °C (428 °F) Diesel varies between 126F and 204F (52C-96C/WJ). Jet fuels also vary a lot. Jet A and jet A-1 have a FP between 100F and 150F (38C-66C/WJ), close to that of off the shelf kerosene. However, both Jet B and FP-4 have a FP between -10F thru +30F (-23C/-1C/WJ)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylbenzene Name of Substance Ethylbenzene Synonyms AI3-09057 Aethylbenzol [German] Benzene, ethyl- CCRIS 916 EB EINECS 202-849-4 Ethyl benzene Ethylbenzeen [Dutch] Ethylbenzene Ethylbenzol Etilbenzene [italian] Etylobenzen [Polish] HSDB 84 NCI-C56393 NSC 406903 Phenylethane Systematic Name Benzene, ethyl- Ethylbenzene Superlist Name Benzene, ethyl- Ethyl benzene Ethylbenzene Ethylbenzene [uN1175] [Flammable liquid] UN1175

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrocarbons

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1,2,4-trimethylbenzene Systematic Name 1,2,4-Trimethylbenzene Benzene, 1,2,3-trimethyl-

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aromatics

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydroxy Commonly used in Power Service... I quote...

I didn't bother with the worthless OEM position fog lamps. There is very little room for lights to be mounted in the and the bumper tends to block the beam path on larger lights... Smaller lights will fit but the bulb heat is bad...

These are awesome for back up lights... I got a switch in the cab to manually force them on. so you can see no to hitch a trailer or get your spare tire out in the dark! :shock:Everything I've had on the rear bumper I've chushed or broke. That why they where moved down to the rear axle. :D

When the truck doesn't have the the 2 cycle oil its like it mis-fires. Like either a stuck injector and/or a injector pump problem. When it does mis-fires its fairly violent. It's like the key was shut off and back on for about 1 or 2 cylinders. :o So my explaination on it is that the 2 cycle oil is keeping the injection pump and injectors lube enough from sticking. That truck is also 1994 (I think) and was designed for LSD most of the problems got worse as the start of ULSD come to be. There was NOT a single local additive that could fix this problem (PowerService or Marvel Mystery Oil). But 2 cycle oil is working just fine... :mrgreen:

Well so far I'm currently testing on a Chevy 6.5L diesel fire truck. So far its stopped throwing the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light, idle more smoothly, reduced the amount of bucking, increase the power (seat -o- pants dyno). Without 2 cycle oil being adding... The SERVICE ENGINE SOON light comes on then power is reduced by half (limp mode), hard starting, starts bucking when hot or under heavy load up hill, stalls for no reseason. Our fire dept was going to condemn E11 because its not safe to use and not reliable. Now since the 2 cycle oil we gain back the truck it relaible again, and managed to get another 10K miles on it.

As for the additive lubricity... I got a email from PS saying that they did a test with some poorly treated fuel (above 520 HFRR) and PS was able to bring it back close to the 520 HFRR. That's where they make there claim. But still its never reduced below the 520 HFRR mark. Then for dirty injectors it might clean it up enough to make a improvement. As for myself I've ran PS for 50K miles with no improvement at all in MPG or HP/TQ. Also I contribute the fact of PS having solvents in the product to my failure of my first LP pump and VP44 at 50K miles. I'm currently at 109K miles and no problem with fuel pressure, IP/LP pumps at all. As for testing 2 cycle oil. Duluth Diesel is currently running AMSOil interceptor 2 cycle oil (Synthetic). I'm running Supertech Outboard 2 cycle oil (Dino version). I started running in back at 85K miles. If there was a problem with running 2 cycle oil I would of started to lose MPG and HP/TQ numbers as the deposits start to grow on the crown of the pistons and the tips of the injectors. But I'm still holding great MPG (19-20) and HP/TQ (381/826) numbers as of currently... At least for Cummins we are allowed up to 5% of WEO (Waste Engine Oil) to be dumped back into the fuel. So that is 35 Gallons for our fuel tanks at 5% that is a whooping 1.75 Gallons of WEO you can dump into the fuel. But I don't approve of the WEO because of the amount of metals and soot you'll be pumping back through the fuel system... Not good. So Dorkweed on CumminForum.Com figure out the 2 cycle oil is ashless. And its better that 30W engine oil which has ASH and WILL create deposits on the injectors. Not to mention engine oil wasn't truely meant to be burned. But 2 cycle oil was meant to be burned and used a a lubricant! Regardless of the type of fuel what I was worried about was flash point / auto ignition temps of mixed 2 cycle oil / diesel still going to burn hot enough... YES! My pyro still will get over the 1,200*F mark without a problem. Since 2 cycle oil has a flash point of 200-210*F it burns completely off at a idle in my truck idle at about 250-350*F on the pyro. As for using WEO Cummins has been doing it for a long time now... https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/qso ... inel.print And here is my search on Centinel... http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=& ... tnG=Search As as for Cummins using oil in the fuel... It's prefectly OK!!! REMEMBER!!! if there is any kind of build on the injectors my MPG will show it by falling... :shock: I got another one for you to think about... Ok next time you pull fuel filter pull the filter out and keep it. Now take a small bucket and try washing some of the material of it in diesel fuel. Now that you got a sample of dirt... Now add you favorite injector cleaner to the diesel fuel. (In Correct ratio closely as possible). Mix well and let it sit... Continue to mix and sit... for a few days... And then tell me if the debis is gone or not... Mostly like not. If a product was strong enough to clean injectors that are dirty fuel plugged it would most likely clean the fuel filter too... But it don't... That why most people are going to better filter systems to protect the injectors. Now if its deposit plugged injectors that normally cause by running low pyro temps and driving shorts distance. The harden deposit is most likely not going to dissolve in and kind of cleaner. Just looking at some of the nasty spark plugs (gasoline engines - deposits are just about the same) I've seen in my day there isn't a chemical strong enough to clean it.

You might want to check out the BTU's thread then.... viewtopic.php?f=14&t=18

Thanks...With everything going on I've not to much time to really work on the site... but its a coming... :D

Really simple... If you look in the middle of each panel you'll see a bolt (5/16" x 1 1/2") with a body wash on the back side tied down by a nyloc nut (5/16") They are slighly bowed so when you mount them up it will pull the bow inwards to keep them tight against the grill. They can't be pryed out and stolen...

How do I keep my engine clean??? Easy... Everytime I wash the outside of the truck I wash the engine too. If I get a leak or weeping gasket it shows up quickly. So fix the problem then wash it back down. If you spill oil on it wash it off when you get home, Etc... But basically anytime I wash the exterior of the truck the engine gets washed too... Summer or winter... I also wash under the truck too... :shock: Even shops and dealers ask me about that... But the best part is if I do go to a shop they have to do good clean work because the engine was clean before it went in... I want it clean when it come out and remain clean! :shock:

Yes... As a matter of fact I've got to yank it up and off soon to keep the web spiders from finding it... :o

First off... 1 quart = 32 ounces 1 pint = 16 ounces Mix ratio 128:1. (You need 1 oz of oil for every 1 gallon of diesel fuel pumped into the tank.) So you need 24 ounces of oil to hold the 128:1 ratio. But since you added 32 ounces of oil you ratio is now 96:1 ratio which is getting a bit thick. That also why I figured out the ratio because a lot of people just add a quart to 6 gallons, 12 gallons, etc... Which make it too thick everytime. Then what happen is the MPG falls hard (12-15 MPG).

Still converting pages in my spare time it will be posted soon...

Everything up to 2007 is fine...

Actually... that why the ratio of 128:1 was delvoped. It was to increase the lubricity of the fuel thats all but the increased MPG was a bonus. But the reason behind the MPG is the fact that the 2 cycle oil has more BTU's over any other product on the market (excluding #2 diesel). It would a good idea to talk to Duluth Diesel about the AMSOil Synthetic line for 2 cycle oil. He the fore runner for testing the AMSOil line... :D

UPDATE! - August 22, 2007 - Relationship between HFRR, Cetane, BTU's, and MPG's Just something to think about... I was thinking about the 3 common fuel additives. 2 of them are paint thinners right??? Well its like saying you got a 1 gallon can of paint and dumping a small ratio of mineral spirits and/or xylene to it. Now even with paint (oil based) the paint thinners thin it out rapidly for a small ratio. Well that what its doing for you fuel. The paint is very similar in way to you diesel fuel. It's much thicker (cSt's) compared to the additive. Now after you add the additive it thins out the fuel fuel more (reducing the cSt's or increasing the HFRR value). At the same time its reducing the BTU's of the fuel. So fuel additives are working against you by creating more wear on internal parts (LP/IP pumps and injectors) and reducing the BTU's of the fuel. Everyone KNOWS that every winter that you MPG's will fall. This because the cetane of the fuel is raised to keep the pour point down and keep it easy starting for cold starting. When you raise the cetane level of the fuel to 45-47 (or higher) cetane your reducing the fuel BTU's so the fuel does less work and so the MPG's fall. This also mean you buy more fuel... :o So if you looking to increase you MPG you NEED a lower cetane fuel like 40-43 cetane. The lower the cetane the better for MPG's. As over in my BTU's Values you notice that 3 chemicals have extremely low BTU's values compared to diesel. These additives will quickly reduce the BTU's value of the diesel fuel. But when you look back at 2 cycle oil its got nearly the same value as #1 diesel. So there is very little loss if any. But you've increase the lubricity of the fuel greatly compared to a fuel additive. Like right now Chevron's Diesel fuel are relatively high for cetane. (43-47 Cetane) http://www.cpchem.com/enu/tds_unsecured ... ummary.pdf

I got to bring all my fellow 2 cycle oil members to a safe place to discuss there finding...

Thank Dr. Evil... Welcome to my little 3.5 Ghz AMD computer with 1.0 GB of RAM and 750 GB of storage. :o PM coming to you...

This procedure is for rear disc brake trucks. First block the front tires so the truck can't roll. Then jack up the rear axle of the truck till the tires are off the ground. Use jack stand under the rear axle. Don't set the brake! SAFETY FIRST! Now crawl under truck. The pic shown here is the driver side axle hub. There will be a notch in the bracket and in the notch is a rubber plug. You'll need a pair of needle nose pliers to reach in and pull the plug out. Now take a flashlight and look in the notch and you'll see a star wheel. You need to use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the star wheel. Check the wheel for drag by turning. If the shoes start to drag back it off a click or two. Then double check to see if it dragging again. Now do the other side the same way. Replace the rubber plugs. Now your done. UPDATED - November 24, 2006 Which direction to turn the star wheel to tighten? That's a simple answer. In the picture above you would want to be turning the star wheel upwards away from the axle to tighten the brakes up. so basically this holds true for both sides. So the passenger side you would want to turn it down and away from the axle. If you reverse this you'll loosen the shoes up. Remember to check for rolling slack they shouldn't drag at all!

Well Chuck... How is the AMSOil Synthetics working for you? I've got lots of people asking about using synthetic 2 cycle oil in the fuels but I was uncertain of the results you've gotten so far. So I'll let you continue this thread for the others... But I'm curious myself of the results you got so far! 8-)