Mopar1973Man

It is suggested to be done at 135K miles which I think is too far down the road. Mine where out of adjustment a bit at 92K miles. So this is how I did my valve adjustment on my truck. Valve adjustment is fairly simple to do and does require much for tools. You need a feeler gauge set (0.010 and 0.020), 9/16" box wrench, 10mm short socket, 15/16" socket, both 3/8" and 1/2" ratchets, Allen wrench and a mirror. The first thing you need to do is pull the valve cover off the engine. You'll need a 10mm short socket and a 3/8" ratchet. Loosen all the bolt till you can lift the bolt up. Don't bother removing the bolts from the valve cover. Once you got that the valve cover will come off on the passenger side. You got to slide it towards the turbo and work it over the top of the heater hose. Take your time is will go... Now you got to remove the breather cover on the gear cover. It just twist off. Once this is removed you won't be able to see the gear unless you use a mirror. Now you need to use your 1/2" ratchet and the 15/16" socket to rotate the alternator. You want to turn it towards the passenger side (or towards coolant bottle). You want to get the gear to be in the TDC (Top Dead Center) like in the picture above. Now you'll start adjusting valves. But you can adjust all of them right now. Intake valves 1, 2, 4 and Exhaust valves 1, 3, 5 which I've circled for you. Using a feeler gauge you want to adjust all intake valves to 0.010" gap and all exhaust valves to 0.020" gap. You'll be inserting the feeler gauge like shown. This is the part you got to take your time on. As you'll notice as you tighten up your adjustment screw the feeler gauges seems to be pinched in-between but try to hold the feeler gauge flat you'll notice it get loose again. So take your time... Now when you get ready to tighten the lock nut finger spin it tight. Then as you tighten the nut you go to hold the adjustment screw still. But if you notice your gap is loose twist both nut and screw tighten a little bit. Or twist the adjustment screw loosen as you tighten the nut. This will increase or decrease the gap a little but not much. Now that you done this set now you go to do the other half of the valves. So now twist the alternator some more till you see (BDC -Bottom Dead Center) for the VP44 pump gear. Now adjust the the rest of the valves. Intakes 3, 5, 6 and Exhaust 2, 4, 6. They are marked in the picture below. Double check all the jam nuts that they are TIGHT! You now have completed a valve adjustment on you engine. Now you got to reassemble the valve cover. Replace the gasket if it damaged. Then remount the breather cover on the gear case and hook up the vent tube. You'll hear a slight difference when you start the truck up. It going to be a bit quieter. Let it idle a bit and double check your valve cover for leaks.

Basically my winter front is a old road sign cut up to fit the opening in the grill. (Thank you! Kelly Hinkley - "The Metal Shop" Riggins, Idaho) I've seen several other ideas including, stainless steel, plexiglass, lexan, and several other materials. But the principal is simple. Keep the cold air from blowing across the radiator and engine. This will aid in engine warm up times and fuel mileage. Remember the cold air will extend the warm up times hence this will cause more fuel to be consumed till the engine is completely warmed up. (Roughly 160-190°F) I've seen about 5-10 miles before I got full engine temperature without the winter front. Now with the winter front its less than 3 miles to get full engine temperature. Excessive cold air for air intake will actually degrade performance. So with the winter front in place it will trap more warm air under the hood for engine use. Compression engines (diesel) require compression of air to make heat to fire the fuel. When the air get cold enough it will start to degrade the performance and fuel economy. As for overheating... Not likely. As long as the fan is in place with the winter front the fan will engage to help cool the engine down if the temperature was to rise from extra load or steep grade. Updated - November 24, 2006 I'm seeing people that are putting a piece of cardboard in front of the coolers and radiators or putting it between the radiator and the coolers. Most people put a good size hole in the middle and insert it... This is WRONG! DON'T DO IT! Why is cardboard inserted wrong??? Well when you put a piece of cardboard against radiator or coolers your block air flow completely all the time. Then when you cut a hole in the middle of the cardboard your blowing cold air on the fan clutch keeping it unlocked always... If the fan clutch did lock it couldn't cool the engine down you got cardboard block the flow of air. Remember also there is a lot of air pushing against this and will plug the face of the radiator/coolers with what ever material you use! The only air flow is going to be at the center where the hole is at... So now you got a overheat problem possibly with both coolant and exhaust temperatures. So why is the winter front CORRECT?? Because the winter front block the cold in coming air but it leave a gap between the grill and the coolers. So now if the fan should happen to lock it can pull full flow of air through it to cool not only the radiator but the intercooler too!

Another simple enhancement that don't cost a bunch of money is straight pipe the exhaust. Beware in some states it is illegal to be without a muffler. Now in some states a turbo is considered a muffling device. Some people think it just to loud. I will admit that without the muffler in place is it louder. I've been told that my truck can be heard up to a mile away. Now besides the noise and legal stuff. The bonus to straight piping the exhaust is that the engine can breathe easier. It will reduce the pyrometer temperature, increase horsepower and torque, and increase your fuel milage. Basically all you need to do is measure how long the full muffler assembly is and get a piece of 3" exhaust pipe and maybe a new set of clamps. Once you got the pipe have them expand the ends so they will fit over the existing pipe. So now when you do this you going to have to fight a little to get the old muffler and resonator off. I used a torch to heat the clamp spots up to get the muffler assemble off. Then slide in your new pipe and clamp it down. I've welded in some re-bar hanger to mount back in the rubber hanger on the frame to help hold the pipe up. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/muffler-delete/muffler-delete.htm

Well I added driving lights as a matter of fact 4 driving lights. I'm using 100 watt aircraft landing lights mounted in rubber tractor buckets. The reason for going to this is fairly simple. I've purchased several driving/fog lights. The biggest problem is the lens in normally made from glass. Well out here in Idaho most of the road are gravel or they use gravel on the highways for traction in the winter time. A good set of driving light would barely last a season before the lens was blown out by a rock. With the aircraft light the bulb is a sealed beam so the bulb and lens is on in the same. They are extremely bright and came light up as far as 1/4 mile down the road in front of you. The new system I've designed has a few safety features built into the fog lamp kit. The fog lamps follow the setting that the main headlights are on. So if you select high beams the fog lamps will follow and go to high beam mode. If you select low beams the fog lamps will follow by going to low beam mode. You never have to worry about blinding some one with this system. If you go from headlight to parking lamps the fog lamps are forced to low beam mode regardless of the pervious head light mode. But if you use the dimmer switch to wink the high beam the fog lamps will follow. But will return to low beam mode when released. When the headlights are turned off the fog lamps are forced off as well. You don't have to worry about shutting down a second switch. My kit also includes a bypass shutdown switch too. This allows you to run only your stock headlights without the fog lamps. The kit requires tapping a few signal wires. But the lights are completely supplied by there own fuse from the battery. This will not put any extra load on you headlight circuit. The kit requires a signal from the trailer relay and a signal from the fog lamp relay. That's it! This kit uses 100W bulbs so its some states this might be illegal to use on highway purpose. Check with local laws first before using. Contact me for information on ordering a fog lamp kit.

This is probably the most used piece of equipment on my truck. I use the exhaust brake to do about 80% of all my braking on the highway, city streets, and off-road. My brake shoe are still factory shoes and I've got over 102K+ on the clock. The shoes have got 50% left. It's a vast savings to the brakes. Sorry to say it doesn't exactly has the diesel rumble when you use this style of exhaust brake. But you do get a hissing noise from the exhaust pipe. There is a bonus to the exhaust brake. You can active it on a cold winter morning and get the pyrometer well above 350°F within a few seconds after starting it in the morning. I purchased the Jacobs Brake from a Dodge Dealer in Lewiston, Idaho for $800.00 http://www.dodgeparts.com - Type in the search words "Exhaust Brake"

Well here we go. The edge Comp is installed with a TST injection pump plate. Lot of people are wondering how hard it is to install. I hate to say it but it's extremely simple. I think the biggest thing is installing the TST plate. First off...Disconnect you batteries! - Negative cables. I got smart and started with the BD Stealth Plate installation. Which is basically loosen the clamps (2 - 7/16" nuts) on the air tube on the drive side and move it aside. Remember to stick a rag in both holes. Then remove the APPS off the engine (3 - 13mm bolts). Now you got a good view of the top of the VP44 pump. So now you take the supplied tamper-proof torx bit and a nut driver and remove all 5 bolts out of the VP44 cover plate. Save you old plate! DON'T THROW IT AWAY! Now you take you TST plate and install it in place of the old plate. Once you got the TST plate mounted snug all the bolts gently. Now take the supplied allen screw and thread it in the tapped hole with your fingers till it stops. Now get out a test light or a DVM. I used a DVM. Hook up the batteries and turn the ignition ON. Ground your test light or DVM lead and touch the allen screw with the positive lead. Now tighten the allen screw till you get 12V or a bright light. Then turn a extra 1/2 turn. Now disconnect you batteries again. Now strip the wire and crimp on the supplied ends (ring terminal and blade terminal). Put the ring terminal on the allen screw and using the supplied nut tighten down the nut snug! No more than snug though. Don't want to strip the threads in the plastic. Now assemble the APPS on the engine and the air tube. So when your done it should look like... So now we get to install the Edge COMP. Look back at the firewall where the main bulkhead goes throw. Cut a 3/4" slice in the rubber boot and slip the Edge Comp plug through the hole. Pull the harness through enough to get the RED wire inside. Route the read wire over to the fuse panel. Open up the fuse panel and pull fuse #17. Take the supplied fuse terminal and slip it over the leg of the fuse and reinstall the fuse. It will be difficult to install so use a blunt object to push it a little. Now route the MAP sensor plugs over towards the MAP sensor. And hook it up. Look down by the ECU and you find the CAN-BUS connector down there. Route its cable down there and hook it up. Now there is a another lead. It's got the grey wire (Pump lead) and the Black wire (Ground). Take the leads in one hand and using the other side the covering down away from the ends. This will give you extra wire to reach the battery for ground. Now you can hook up both black to ground post of the battery and the grey wire to the red wire on the TST plate. Now route the main connector to the steering column or the knee bolster. Use the supplied velcro to attach the Edge Comp to either. Now go out to the turbo and cut the clamp off the wastegate hose on the turbo side. Now unscrew the elbow out of the turbo. Now install the supplied elbow which looks like the same thing but it got a small hole in it. Use the supplied hose clamp and reinstall the wastegate hose. At this point double check all your wiring and plumbing. If its good hook up your battery. Turn on the ignition key. At this point you should see lights on the Edge Comp. Fire up the engine. At this point you should be done. It took me a little over 1.5 hours to install. Settings... From what I understand when your setting you power levels you got the main number (1-5) and the sub level (1-5). To set the sub-level press the power switch and hold for a few seconds and release. The LED bars will be flashing rapidly. Now you can adjust the sub-level. Main number controls the maximum fuel rate. This it the amount of total fuel at WOT that will be used. Higher the number the more fuel at WOT. Main Level Horse Power 1 40 2 60 3 80 4 100 5 120 The sub number is how quick it will get to maximum fuel rate by boost pressure. Higher the number the less boost required to get to full fuel rate. This also might create black smoke during acceleration. Sub Level Fuel Rate 1 33% of Fuel is supplied until 20 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 2 50% of Fuel is supplied until 15 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 3 67% of Fuel is supplied until 10 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 4 adds less fuel than Sub-level 5 5 adds the most fuel at low boost Tricks... Pull you plug off the MAP sensor on the engine. This will cause the Edge Comp to supply full fuel regardless of boost pressure. This will produce some nice black clouds on 5x5. But it does have a side effect it will throw a error code P0236 - MAP Sensor Too High Too Long. Remember anytime you see black smoke it is un-burnt fuel. So if you after fuel mileage tune it down a bit. If you after power turn it up and watch the black cloud roll!

There is several ways of getting a boost gauge hooked up. I took the easiest way. I got a 3/4" to 1/2" steel bushing. Then used a 1/2" to 1/8" brass bushing. There is a pipe plug right next to the fuel filter. There is several stories about how to do you pyrometer probe. I'm going to explain my method. I center punched the manifold on the rear port where I wanted to drill my hole. I greased my drill bit and drilled slowly with a shop vacuum next to the bit. After drilling I used both a magnetic screwdriver and a Q-tip to pick up any metal chips. Then I greased my tap and tapped my hole. I checked the manifold again in the same way as above. Then install your probe as directed by the manufacture. Fuel pressure gauge was installed using a tapped banjo bolt. As you can see in the lower picture this is the hardware I used to plumb the fuel pressure gauge. There is NO ISOLATOR in my system. But I do have a needle valve to shutdown the fuel flow if a leak occurs. Needle valve $8.00 at NAPA Weatherhead (WH6820) If you get the Cummins Campaign Pump you will get a free banjo bolt... UPDATED! Since I upgraded my fuel lines to Vulcan Big Line Kit. The kit comes with a 1/8" NPT port for tapping for a test port or fuel pressure gauge. In this picture you see the needle valve and pressure switch for a low pressure light. You might be asking what did I pay for my gauges. I paid $309.00 for the 3 gauges, the a-pillar pod, and a can of grey paint. I purchased it through. Diesel Performance Parts Inc. As for the needle valve I got that at my local NAPA store for $8.00. The part number is a Weatherhead part (WH6820) As For the nylon tubing. I got that at my local autozone store for $10.00 a set. Just look for oil pressure gauge plumbing kits. Low pressure switch and tapped banjo bolt came with my Carter Campaign pump. (4090046) $50.00 Boost gauge connection is going to require a bushing 3/4" NPT to 1/2" NPT also a brass bushing 1/2" NPT to 1/8" NPT. The steel bushing I got at my local hardware store for $2.29 and the brass bushing I pulled from the oil pressure plumbing kit. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/gauges/gauges.htm

Problems with the stock breather... This is a home-brew fix to a problem on the 2nd Gen Cummins engines. The problem is the OEM crankcase vent is nothing more than a piece of hose mounted to the front of the gear case that elbows over and points down towards the ground. There is two versions of this. One is with a drip bottle mounted on the end of the hose and the other is without the bottle. In any case there is a TSB (09-002-02 Crankcase Breather Overflow) warning on extreme loss of oil from descending to steep of a slope while off-roading. This is true but it will also scatter oil all over the engine and radiator. This cause a second problem of overheat from dust and dirt collecting in the face of the radiator. Even in normal use cases the breather bottle has been known to emit enough oil vapors to make the radiator gunky with dirt and dust. Another problem that a TSB 09-02-00 (A Heavy Oil Or Fuel-Like Odor Coming From the Diesel Engine Compartment) was written for was the foul heavy oil smell after a oil change. This is normal for some brand of oils like Rotella. Now that I listed all the problems with the breather bottle now let look at what I've fixed... What I've Fixed! First off I've never lost any oil off-roading with my design. Why? Simple. I look at a simple principal. If the front of the truck is going down hill the vent pipe end should be higher than the oil level at any angle. So how did I do that? Simple run the pipe up over the top of the engine and down over the back side of the engine. So now no matter how steep you run the nose down hill the end of the vent pipe will be higher. Since the end of the pipe is down under the truck by the transmission there is no problem with cooling or radiator plugging any longer. Also you will no longer get the heavy oil smell in the cab since the pipe is under the truck. You might smell it a little as you open the door but rare. Some people have use rubber hose to do this too. Well rubber heater hose will eventually break down and collapse. This is a problem! It will cause a build up of crankcase pressure and start oil leakage around seals. Another problem with other home brew systems... If you make the vent pipe to long you might start freezing the water vapor in the hose/pipe before it exits the pipe. Once again this causes problems with crankcase pressure. My system has no where for the oil/water to pool to freeze or plug the pipe. I've tested down to -20°F and never had a freeze up yet. Contact me for information on ordering a crankcase vent kit. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/crankcase-vent/crankcase-vent.htm

Carter Campaign Pump 4090046 Cummins Part Number $63.00 Dodge OEM Pump BSAAL6429X Mopar Part Number $209.00 Napa OEM Pump NFPP74213 Napa Part Number $179.99 Carter Fuel Pump (Generic) P4601HP $99.50 Carter Campaign Lift Pump This is a redesigned lift pump for the Cummins engines. From what I heard it was design for the Buses more than anything. But I found that the Campaign pump is exactly identical as the Dodge OEM pump that was supplied at manufacture. Just much cheaper in price! UPDATE - November 24, 2006 The campaign pump is doing fair with a stock engine configuration. My fuel pressure have slid a bit and now it idles at 13.5 PSI, Cruise at 12.5 PSI, and WOT 11.0 PSI. It's starting to get marginal. It might get even worse with the addition of the Edge COMP that is coming soon. Update - December 25, 2006 I have been notified by Cummins in Boise ID that the Campaign pump is no longer available. If you attempt to order 4090046 you find that the price jumped from $65 to $202. So it time to research the next new pump for replacement. Dodge OEM Lift Pump The OEM lift pump that Dodge use to supply for replacement is no longer. They now are converting over to a in-tank fuel pump. Basically the module has the pick up screen, fuel sender, and lift pump as a package. The problem is the pump is weaker in pressure compared to the old version and requires you to lift the bed of the truck to replace. In other words if you have a lift pump problem now your going to be stuck on the side of the road. Carter Fuel Pump - P4601HP I got one of these from Summit Racing. What I found out is the fuel pressure is much weaker. I got roughly 8 PSI at idle and 4-5 PSI at WOT. The other problem is the fuel fittings are 3/8" NPT. So it can not be used a replacement pump. The electrical connections are for ring terminals. So once again it will not work on the truck unless to change your plumbing and electrical connection. But why bother when the pressure is to low to use... Fuel System Pressures - UPDATE! I'm hearing a lot of people saying that it's OK to let it slide down below 10 PSI... Cummins set the pressure limit for a reason. This reason includes proper cooling and lubrication of the fuel system components under extreme loads (WOT). I highly suggest you stick the recommended pressure listing. You cannot have any fuel volume without pressure! Something has to PUSH it! http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/campaign-pump/campiagn-pump.htm

Well I'm glad to see you come over and see whats up...I'm still in the clean up state but I'm getting it fired up... This is completely hosted from my home computer... So it make it easy for me to work on the web site...

For all of you that are looking to help you Cummins Turbo Diesel breathe better well there is several different kits, filters, etc. on the market. I'm not going to bend your arm to follow my lead but I will explain why I made this choice.First off there are filters like K & N on the market that are washable and re-useable. Well I'm going to suggest you forget using these filters. When you wash a filter your going to put wear on the media and eventually open holes up in the media to allow passage of dirt. Another problem is most people over oil the filters and the turbo sucks oil in on the compressor wheel. If there is a dirt leak you will see a dirt compressor wheel and it will cause turbo damage.So when you look at a BHAF or similar filter you will see a completely sealed unit. There is no way for dirt to get pass the filter into the engine. Also the BHAF is roughly 3x bigger than the stock panel filter so this allows more air to enter the engine unrestricted. Another bonus is the media is a dry paper element so the dirt will not stick to the media and cause it to plug premature.The down side to a BHAF is the price. They are roughly $50-60 bucks. So if your smart you buy a filter and get the outerwears pre-filter for it. It will protect the filter from heavy dust and water. It will make the filter last for a very long time.I've gotten about 60K miles on my BHAF now and it is now just getting really dirty.Here is also the listing of different part numbers for a BHAF below...Part Numbers of BHAF filters

Probably wondering why I mounted backup lights on my rear axle. Simple... I originally had mounted a set of driving lights on the back bumper. About a year later while I was out in the woods collecting fire wood I back up over a pile of rocks and crushed a light. Well in the near future I start thinking about new locations to mount the new lights. So after hunting around the truck for a spot that won't get hit. I found the rear axle. The light as guarded by the axle while you rolling forward and the are also guarded by the sway bar while backing up. Contact me for information on ordering a Backup light kit.

UPDATE! - August 14, 2007 - BTU values of fuels and chemicals. http://mopar1973man.servehttp.com/pics/btu's%20values.jpg So is it possible that any kind of cetane booster / injection cleaner containing these chemical can IMPROVE you performance? It's not possible. They have considerable reduction in BTU value and extremely low flash points like gasoline. Please take the time time and look up you favorite additive in my MSDS listing. Also for those of you that are switch to BIO Diesel / Ethanol fuels (Gasser). Take notice that both fuel product less power compared to the Dino version. So it will reduce your fuel mileage some... The higher the BTU value the higher HP/TQ number and MPG numbers you'll net from your vehicle. So this also prove that cetane booster with increase the cetane level for sure but it will decrease the BTU's and HP/TQ... This explains why in the winter time when they increase the cetane to 45 or better the MPG decreases. It because the BTU's where lost with the cetane booster added to the fuel. So this proves without a doubt a 40 cetane proves more power than 45 cetane fuel. Quick Story... While I was at the Dyno when I got my results above. A friend of mine ran a very popular brand cetane booster in main tank mix with the 2 cycle oil at 128:1. When he ran the dyno on the 2 cycle and cetane booster he lost about 15 HP/30 TQ from it. So he switch over to his aux. tank and ran just the 2 cycle oil. The results was he gain back plus about 5 HP. So increasing the cetane level of your fuel doesn't mean you gain power it actually will decrease it!

UPDATE! - July 18 2007 - Cetane What is it? What does it do? I'm still seeing a large amount of people that want to continue adding cetane boosters to the 2 cycle oil this is not required. Today diesel fuel is approximately 43 - 47 cetane number. Please check over on the MSDS page. Cummins Cetane Requirements for 1st, 2nd and 3rd Gen Trucks A Cetane rating of 40 is recommended at temperatures above 32 degrees. A Cetane rating of 45 is recommended at temperatures below 32 degrees. There is no benefit to using a higher cetane number fuel than is specified by the engine's manufacturer. The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to insure maximum fuel availability." This quote underscores the importance of matching engine cetane requirements with fuel cetane number!!! So adding cetane boosters are not going to improve the performance of the engine and/or fuel. Cetane improvers modify combustion in the engine. They encourage early ignition of the fuel. They encourage premature combustion and excessive rate of pressure increase in the combustion cycle. Look at the materials they use in most cetane boosters. Mineral Spirits, Xylene, and Naptha none of these chemicals are even close to the diesel fuel family. They also have very low flash points like gasoline! Every one of them are used for degreasing and cleaning solvents. Cetane Number is a measure of the ignition quality of a diesel fuel. It is often mistaken as a measure of fuel quality. Cetane number is actually a measure of a fuel's ignition delay. This is the time period between the start of injection and start of combustion (ignition) of the fuel. In a particular diesel engine, higher cetane fuels will have shorter ignition delay periods than lower cetane fuels. Cetane booster tend to advance the timing of ignition. Hence the ignition knock that you hear. The lower the cetane number the less ignition knock you'll hear. Also the flash point and the auto-ignition temps of the fuel is reduced greatly. Cetane number should not be considered alone when evaluating diesel fuel quality. API gravity, BTU content, distillation range, sulfur content, stability and flash point are very important. In colder weather, cloud point and low temperature filter plugging point may be critical factors. All of the cetane boosters on the market tend to reduce the BTU content of the fuel. Hence it reduces the MPG and the HP/TQ numbers. Sulfur content is been reduced national to 520 HFRR (<15 PPM Sulfur) which mean less lubricity of the fuel. Cetane boosters tend to de-stabilize the flash point. Go back to my Chemical definition page and look at the flash points of the different chemicals.

UPDATE! May 19, 2007- 2 Cycle Oil And The DynoJet... Well there has been a lot of talk about 2 cycle oil hurting to HP/TQ numbers. Well I'm here to set the records straight for once and for all... First off let me lay down some baseline information. You all have seen my web page on my BOMBs and MODs I've done. Ok... We all know that the 2002 Cummins SO is rated for 235 HP 460TQ at the flywheel. Run #1 - Stock mode with Edge Comp Turned off. 228 HP - 462 TQ Well this proves there is very little drag between the flywheel to the rear end. Also this proves there was very little improvement in HP/TQ number concerning 2 cycle oil. I'm using conventional Dino lubes in everything except the transmission which requires the Castrol SynTorque. But still even this number is high for HP/TQ at the rear wheels... 2 Cycle oil maybe??? Run #2 - Edge Comp turned on 5x5 379 HP - 831 TQ Run #3 - Edge Comp turned on 5x5 381 HP - 826 TQ Ok we all know the Edge Comp give about 120 HP on 5x5 setting but now do the math. 381 - 228 = 153 - 120 = 33 HP difference! Where did this power come from? I got no other fueling enhancements and only a BHAF and straight piped exhaust 3"... Stock injectors, stock turbo, stock VP44 and LP pumps. As for my fuel / 2 cycle oil ratio he is what I had. I filled up with 26.306 gallons of diesel fuel and poured in 32 ounces of 2 cycle oil (SuperTech Outboard). So that means... 26.306 (Gallons) x 128 = 3,367.168 Ounces of fuel. 3,367.168 / 32 Ounces Of Oil = 105.224:1 Ratio of diesel Fuel to Oil. I admit this is a bit heavy mixture of 2 cycle oil to fuel. But I've been getting a bit lazy about measuring my oil so if I'm nearly empty I would add the full quart regardless. It's got to be the 2 cycle oil helping the burn of the fuel.. So never the less I'm a extremely happy camper and will continue to use 2 cycle oil in my fuel.

I would highly suggest that no one uses 2 cycle oil in a vehicle that is already designed for ULSD. These engines have some very expensive equipment on board like diesel particulate filters etc. These device are not cheap to replace. Also remember this might or will VOID your warranty on your truck. These engine have been redesigned to be run on fuel that are very low in lubricants (Sulfur content).

For starters my lowest temperature around here was recorded at -20.2*F (-29*C) on January 16, 2007 in New Meadows, Idaho. This was recorded by my on-board thermometer which hold histories of HI and LO temps for both inside and out. During this entire season I never use a single anti-gel product on the market. Just diesel fuel and 2 cycle oil.Now remember above in the specs sheet for ULSD the gel point is 0*F.Now think about it. A snowmobile runs on a mixture of about 40:1 to 50:1 gasoline and 2 cycle oil. This very same snowmobile must run in extreme temperatures down as low as -40*F (40*C) and maybe lower. But what I want to point out here is... There is no problem with 2 cycle oil gelling up in a snowmobile in extreme temperatures as low as -40*F (-40*C) With mixtures as low as 40:1 a high performance snowmobile runs great. There is no reason why a 128:1 mixture in you diesel truck would lose performance to that mixture. Knowing that 2 cycle oil is lubricating your entire system compared to using a harsh solvent (that thins the lubricants) to breakdown the wax of diesel to keep the fuel flowing. Remember that very same snowmobile has no other lubrication system on board only the 2 cycle oil in the fuel to lube the entire engine. So it a prefect lubricant for your fuel system on your diesel truck. Here is a graph of my fuel mileage for this last winter of 2006/2007.As you can see I've go no loss of power or economy with the use of 2 cycle oil. All I got is high points! Think about it most people see a decrease in fuel mileage during the winter time. I'm not seeing much of a decrease this winter between the Edge Comp and the 2 Cycle Oil used in my fuel.As for IP and LP pumps. I'm currently got 43K miles on my VP44 injection pump with no problems so far. Then I got 10K miles on my current carter Campaign pump. Which still got 11-12 @ WOT yet!

I found some interesting document about the way that diesel fuel is shipped and I'm going to share these document with you... http://www.arb.ca.gov/regact/dieslub/notice.pdf <- Some information on how diesel fuel is now shipped. http://www.arb.ca.gov/regact/dieslub/hor.pdf <- More on how diesel fuel is handled. http://www.ncagr.com/standard/diesellub ... r11504.pdf <- How North Carolina is handling diesel fuel. Basically diesel fuel after being refined is well above the 520 HFRR rating which is unacceptable by any standards. So its up to the delivery personal to add the lubricant package to the truck before delivery. Currently I cannot find anything that insures that said delivery of diesel fuel will comply with the HFRR 520 limit. As far I see there is no test of the fuel after its loaded on the truck to insure it is within compliance or if the additive package was even added. Like North Carolina is saying "It is our understanding that currently 40% to 60% of the diesel fuel supply meets the new standard without the addition of a lubricity additive." Now how are we as consumers to be sure that the lubricant package was used when its needed? I'm sure the delivery personal are not testing every truck load of diesel before it delivered to your local fuel station. RAW DIESEL FACTS - BEFORE A ADDITIVE PACKAGE Ultra Low Sulfur #2 Diesel by law cannot contain more than .0015% (15 ppm) of sulfur. This fuel will generally have an HFRR rating of 600-800. Ultra Low Sulfur #1 Diesel by law cannot contain more than .0015% (15 ppm) of sulfur. This fuel will generally have an HFRR rating of 700-900. Remember: 1000 Microns = 0.039369999999999995 Inch As you can see above raw untreated USLD diesel is well outside the range of the 520 HFRR limit. It requires a additive package. But once again the is no regulation that insure that package was added to the truck in proper quantity for that load. Now saying this... I know there isn't a single diesel additive product on the market today that can promise to improve the diesel fuel lubricity below 520 HFRR level! Especially if its untreated diesel fuel with a HFRR value of 700-900!!! Just something to think about when you buying a fuel additive. But I know that 2 cycle oil is reducing that number for sure!

The easiest way to remember mix ratio for 2 cycle oil for your truck is 1 ounce of oil for every gallon of fuel. So basically if you put 20 gallons of fuel in you need 20 ounces of oil. This will work out to about 128:1 ratio which is very safe to use! Just for information purpose. Cummins authorizes up to 5% of WEO (waste engine oil) to be blended into diesel fuel. Knowing this now you can add up to 1.75 gallons of 2 cycle oil for a 35 gallon tank. But I would only stick to using 2 cycle oil and mixing 1 oz of oil to 1 gallon of fuel...

I'm still researching products and more research I'm doing the more I keep finding that diesel additive are using mineral spirits, xylene, naptha as a anti-gel and/or certane booster. But remember these chemical are NOT lubricants. I'm also finding that some of the chemical that they are using in fuel conditioners are cancer causing and have high health hazards. Like I told one user on Cummins Forum I've got a whole gallon of Xylene in the shop for paint thinner but I won't add that to my diesel fuel!We are trying to find additives to add to our fuel that contain lubricants and not thinners. With the on set of ULSD and lack of lubricants it has the last thing your injection pump wants is more thinners. The whole idea is to put more lubricants in the fuel. I got to admit all of the above chemicals would break down the waxy chains of diesel fuel and improve the pour point. But It comes with a price of enhanced wear on your fuel system. So far I haven't found any kind of product that is like 2 cycle oil for properties.

More Information on ULSD... First, I want to concentrate on the loss of the sulfur and why this is important to you. Sulfur is an Extreme Pressure (EP) lubricant. It is regularly added to lubricating oils and greases to increase the lubricity and to raise the amount of pressure that the lubricant can handle before the lubricating molecular barrier begins to break down. Sulfur has always been a vitally important factor in providing lubrication to diesel engine fuel pumps, fuel injectors, and to a lesser degree engine valves. The reduction now being made takes on-highway diesel from less than 500 ppm to less than 15 ppm, which for all practical purposes eliminates sulfur as a lubricant in the fuel. There are several methods of determining lubricity in fuels. The most common are: Ball on Cylinder Lubricity Evaluator (BOCLE), Scuffing Load on Ball Lubricity Evaluator (SLBOCLE), and High Frequency Reciprocating Rig (HFRR). The HFRR has emerged as the world standard and has been adopted by the ASTM and all of the engine manufacturers as the de-facto standard for measuring lubricity of fuels. HFRR ratings are counter-intuitive with the lower number showing better lubricity than a higher number. On an HFRR test the number given is a measurement of the scar diameter (microns) produced during the test. The larger the scar diameter, the lower the lubricity, the smaller the scar the better the lubricity Here is a few ASTM HFRR Standards... In the matter of Lubricity the ASTM after many years of discussion, has set its standard at HFRR 520 for diesel fuel as a minimum. Amount of lubricant in diesel fuel at 1 Gallon and 35 Gallons of ULSD diesel fuel. When you look at it from this stand point the amount of lubricants have been reduced to next to nothing.

Introduction I've been adding 2 cycle oil to my diesel fuel for the last about 20,000+ miles. So far I've found out that it has improved a few things like engine noise is reduced, fuel mileage increased slightly, and knowing the the fuel system is being lubricated is always a plus! I've been adding a quart every time I fill up with fuel. So if I pump 20-25 gallons I'll add a quart of 2 cycle oil. It makes it roughly 80:1 to 120:1 ratio of fuel to 2 cycle oil. This is relatively low ratio and with not cause any harm engine as far as I known. There is another reason why I'm adding 2 cycle oil to my fuel. It because of EPA changing the sulfur levels in the diesel fuel. This will reduce the lubricity. Knowing that VP44 injection pumps are a touchy subject you might as well add oil to the fuel.