Col_Psoas

Ok so for testing it looks like I'm about 55mph = 0 psi 65mph = ~3 psi 75mph = 6-8 psi I'm starting to think that I was just expecting it to spool closer to how the hy did and that simply isn't going to happen. I played with it a bunch more and found that it really does give a lot more of a hit when I'm doing top gear acceleration passes so that is more like I would have guessed. The heat thing is a bit weird but i'm chalking that up to no boost until it gets more fuel. Seriously I can't thank you guys enough for your time and your help figuring this out. I'll revisit the issue again when I get some small injectors put on there and see if that helps it spool down low. Thanks again guys, you really have been great

Ok that is a bit of a thinker, I'll get out there and look at it now. Where would be the best place to check for leaks, is anything common, I only had to mess with the one boot changing the turbos out and I thought I got it clamped down pretty good. Not much I can do about the gauge but if there's a good test for a boost leak I'm ready to give anything a try

Ok I just took the truck out for a run today and although it was a bit windy I think I got some good data. Level ground 70 mph with little wind I saw 700* and 0psi coming back later into a headwind at 65 I was right around 700* also but at 3-4 psi. Does this help make anything more clear, I'm just amazed that this think makes Zero boost until its under load, but I'm starting to wonder if maybe that is what it is supposed to do with the bigger turbine and housing compared to the hy

I think that's fair enough. And that you for that fantastic write up on the articles page, I was able to build one without any real trouble and just took your specs as gospel and went from there. So far the 143 has worked really well but I"m thinking about putting in a different resistor a little lower just to play with it, there really is no downside after all. Mostly I was curious if it started to retard the timing or something silly at the warmer temps and if you knew that would potentially save me some searching, its just so hard to get really good objective data over consistent enough terrain that I can draw a fair conclusion. looks like a trip to wendover may be in order, that should give me some smooth flat ground:whistle: thanks again for your great replies to every thread. You've been a fantastic resource getting to make this truck perform at its very best

I have a question about your testing for that which I can't seem to figure out on my own. I have my mpg fooler set so that when I flip the switch it reads 143 IAT. but when I run the truck with no artificial interference on a warm day and its reading in the 110 to 130 range I get at least as good of mileage but I can't get consistent enough outdoor temps around here to get any real data. **Is there any chance that 140 is too warm and the truck is slowing the timing down or anything like that?** I feel like the throttle is less responsive with it reading 143 but that could also just be the truck using less fuel because it thinks there is more air...

I'm really really sure thats what it is, I have the wastegate but no line connecting to the cold side to activate it. I'll upload some picture so you guys can help me see it here. The guy said it was freshly rebuilt, it sure feels tight and looks clean these are the only comparison pics I have from off the truck. The nasty old one is the hy http://imgur.com/a/JZbfS please keep the feeback coming guys, maybe I'm overly fussy but honestly, I expected more

Sorry for the delayed reply but I'm back Tuner lives on 5x5 (edge comp with tapped wire) truck is not modded heavy at all. BHAF the comp box 285 wheels, spooge tube mod, high idle and mpg fooler and thats about it. QCSB Now I"m obviously not driving it at 35 psi very often, just when I floor it up a little grade to get it to max out out can I see those pressures and temps. This turbo is a real holset though with no wastegate, I plan to put one on eventually but honestly with the truck pinned at only making ~35psi I have other worries at the moment, I know nothing is in danger there my big problem is I honeslty don't feel like it is hardly any different than the hy was. It builds boost slower and later which I can see due to the bigger exhaust housing and my temps are hotter all the time I'm running empty. and way hotter going up a canyon. The only time I feel like this turbo is giving me more is when I'm really rapped out and its boosting really heavy but otherwise its giving me the feeling that the truck isn't pushing it into its effective range or something. It feels stronger up top but I'm running very little of my time up there now that I've changed jobs and don't haul much anymore running down the highway with the old hy I could see under 600* egt numbers and running 4-7psi of boost. Now i'm more like 750 egt and 0 psi of boost. Both at 65, no change except the turbo. Is this something that I should have expected? Mileage hasn't really changed to be honest which is only confusing me more:think:. Still getting ~20 mpg, better on longer drives but I want more (i can get 23 for a trip according to my scangauge if the truck is already warmed up when I set off)

So here's the deal. Truck is an 02 with a built auto, 120k miles and edge comp with tapped wire, stock injectors. After tons and tons of reading I decided that upgrading to an hx35 would be better for the truck and just make the truck better overall but I honestly don't know how to feel about it now that I'm doneThe truck makes way more heat on the egt's. Like everywhere but way up high in the rpm range. With the stock injectors and pinned I can only just barely touch 1250 unloaded but this was impossible with my hy. and whereas my hy made a max boost of maybe 20 the hx makes about 37 max psi.whats going on here? I get more heat, less spool up down low. Higher cruising egt's and lower crusing boost pressure just running unloaded down the highway and the only improvement I can see is when I'm pushing it hard but even that is next to nothing (more air but doesn't feel any different, same max temp), certainly not worth the cost.Any thoughts here guys, should I just put the hy back on and be done with it? Currently I'm not hauling or towing so its just unloaded highway driving but it feel less responsive but with similar mileage and higher cruising temps? No boost leaks anywherethanks for your help guys

I just barely finished building mine. It honestly isn't hard, the connectors you'll need can be purchased from Casper's electronics and everything else I bought from digikey. If you've got a couple hours you can make one that'll work without anything tougher than soldering and drilling a box to mount the switches in

Hi all. So I just completed a 4 switch and resistor build for high idle and combined winter mpg fooler but I had a question as to the resistance on that.I'm using a 2.2k ohm resistor to get a reading of 143*F through the IAT. Obviously I want the highest reading I can get and still save the advanced timing from my edge comp. What got me thinking is even in the summer I never saw a reading quite that high, I saw 130's plenty of times but never more than that. Is 143 too high and the vp is going to retard timing to prevent problems that it thinks are coming therefore taking away the gains I am trying to get here. I'm having a really hard time being able to tell if I'm actually getting better mileage with the fooler on vs just the truck up to temp and the IAT reading ~100*Has anyone done any experimenting to see if a slightly different value would be more beneficial and if I should change out the resistor so that the fooler is reading 130 or so.Any help is certainly appreciated