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pepsi71ocean last won the day on February 2

pepsi71ocean had the most liked content!

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    Reading, Pennsylvania/ Atlantic City New Jersey

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  1. I believe @Evan is suffering from the same issues I had I had. Can you tell me what your modifications are? I wrote up a huge article over in the articles setting here that maybe of use for you. I can't get my phone to post it. IDK why it's acting up. This is what I wore to try and explain the settings and how they work based on my truck. My99 with an automatic did allot of the things you describe in this thread. But my truck when it's tuned seems to run great.
  2. I'm running 1/2 line from tank to FASS then 3/8's from fass to VP. I'm also running a fass 150 spring cut down to hit 18psi at idle. with the old 95gph spring i could go from 17psi at idle down into the 8psi range with my smarty on the right settings. I always would tap the throttle on the way back as I was slowing down. Burt with the 150 spring I may see 15 psi hammer on the floor. The main issue is that cylinder pressure far exceeds the 4,300psi of your injectors, if your running hard like that with high boost pressure.
  3. Every turbo charged engine. Weather on my personal rig, or the freightliners at work. I'll idle it as long as needed to hit 250f. If I'm towing heavy 10,000 or more I've found it takes upwards of 5 to 8 mins of idling to get the exhaust and the turbo to cool down. If it's less then 3 mins I leave it idle. A cheap trick I learned to help cool it down is to downshift and let the engine free rev. It runs nice cool air thought the combustion chamber, the exhaust manifold and the turbo charger. It makes a big difference. Despite this added info it's best to let it idle down. Shot your truck off and expect a 150f rise in temps. As long as your under your engine oil coking temper your good. But that's in the mid 400s anyways.
  4. It actually does both. When it's really hot I've had it help cool the transmission fluid coming out of it before going to my air to trans cooler. It's nice in the winter as it helps warm up the fluid, but once the teams temp gets over the engine coolant temp it starts to cool it down to the coolant temp. Is it necessarily who knows, but I have hit 220f in driving traffic, and I know it does deep it back down but I don't have a probe after it. My probe is pre block cooler.
  5. Can I ask where you got this filter? And where in the return system it's located? I would love to do one, since I replaced the gear box.
  6. I should clarify. My head's a little doofy since I've been in the hospital. That's a good thing to see. Yes back cutting the valves I think it's the proper term. Back cutting the valves and porting the exhaust side. Then you cut match the exhaust on the head to the manifold and you will see. But do let me know what they say I'm really interested in what they say.
  7. @dripley porting and cutting the exhaust is the the largest benefit. Better spool and lowers egts. But it's only worry it to do it when you have the head off. The problem with the intake side is that you don't see much benefit till you cut the plum off. But that's a waste of time intake flows good, it's the exhaust that needs help.
  8. It begs me to ask why not port the exhaust side. Or do the valves.
  9. Where in Maryland are you located? Follow my guide above to see which clitches aren't working. After that follow this guide for live pressure testing. It's fairly straight forward. I'm located in Jersey if you need a hand with some of the testing. Then we can give you a better direction to go with R&R work. My advice is go to a diesel performance shop and avoid everything else like the plague, most shops wouldn't even know how to play with a built Dodge auto. And in my case my truck runs on dextron not ATF and unless you know they won't and add in the wrong fluid.
  10. It's luck of the draw. I know if guys who went to the track every weekend with #53 blocks and never had an issue. It's a thermal expansion and a motor mount issue. Usually if your haven't had any issues by 150k your considered safe. Your at almost 200k I think your good to go. Just take her easy to she warms up a bit. I wait til i see 165-170 degrees of coolant then give her hell. And idle her down too. Especially if your towing heavy. No sense in not letting the engine circulate the coolant to even out the heat in the block.
  11. Can I ask what it means when you say you hashed your engine?
  12. The next time I'm out in reading I can swing by and meet you at Walmart or such. Your truck should be mostly fine, I think that its better to save up for a transmission and go from there bud! That looks like a clean truck. And I'm in the process of rebuilding my 99. You came to the right place. There is Lannings Diesel up in Shickshinny PA. They are a Goerend dealer. I don't know much else about them building trucks thought! But If you got that lucky, my advise is to learn and build it yourself. Most of the stuff to do yourself will save you money. The only thing I would really consider farming out would be things like the transmission. They can be really more of an art then a science. I don't know of any places but I need to find the other guy who lives out in Shillington and ask him he may know. I tend to all of my own work. EDIT: @Mopar1973Man do you remember who is out in Shillington He's near me in reading but I can't think of his name at the moment! EDIT 2: I found him @dave110. He may know.
  13. Yes, Indeed. But if what tittle say is correct, changing the SW# should not cause a change, therefore SW5 or SW9 should show the same results. This is where I'm most curious about this. He said that Smarty claims that the revo cancels the SW#. So changing it shouldn't change anything, if it does then we know that revo and the SW# work together. Yes, I don't even remember writing that post, I was so out of it that night! haha This is the response I got with TM2 on my truck.However, I didn't go down, I went up, and found SW7 and SW9 to lessen the effects.
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