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pepsi71ocean

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pepsi71ocean last won the day on February 2

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    Reading, Pennsylvania/ Atlantic City New Jersey

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  1. I'm running a 200tstat from the dodge dealership, and on vent i see 180F out of the vents, and it will bake you out.
  2. @Evan If your running on SW7 what are your timing settings set at?
  3. I wonder what your pop pressure is on your injectors. I still find SW5, TM4, T3, D4 to be my best tune settings. Runs like a raped ape to me, and with the 320 bar injectors its about smoke free. EDIT, My 1,000th post!
  4. pre boost fooling, and cruise control surge are controlled best by a lower TM, but raising the SW# also changes the aggressiveness of the throttle. The higher the SW# the more you need to back off on the TM# to control smoke control. I have found that a lower SW ie 5, with a higher TM like 5 or 6 works best. You get tons of torque off the line, and with a Timing on 4 it spools like a chainsaw. SW 4/5 SW6/7 and SW8/9 have same fueling curve as a pair, its just that the even numbers use stock timing. SW4/5 have the low catcher, the 6/7 is the mild catcher, and 8/9 is the high catcher. The thing is that the higher the Timing number ie 2-3-4 the faster it locks the timing at 100% fueling command. However the SW# also increases the rate at which you hit 100% fuelingg. So for me SW9 and Timing on 4 just never worked. Truck ran like ****. The SW6 and SW5 have different fueling maps, you can run timing on 4 on SW5. You can dial back on the Duration a bit if you have passing smoke. If your going to run SW5, you can try TM on 4 or 5, but you need to run the timing on 3 or 4 with SW5. Now pop pressure also has an effect here. Since I raised my pop pressure my smarty runs so much better.
  5. I'm trying to help you dial your truck in. that guide I swear works.If your running a lower SW# ie 4/5 then you can run your timing higher which will effect smoke. But is your smoke on the low end ie pre spool up, or after your building boost? What @Me78569 says is true, I can tell you that when the timing locks is effected by the SW#
  6. I explained how the timing is tuned in my article. Any even number has the stock timing. I have found that the SW5 with timing on 4, TM 4 and Duration on 3/4 works the best for my truck. Even so, timing on 4 with SW7 or SW9 is too much for my truck, it locks it so low that spool is very hard, thats why you need to turn it back. Torque management is pre--boost fooling, the duration is passing smoke. Even with the larger injectors you need to use these to tune back smoke control. The higher the SW the more you need to turn back the timing in order to keep your truck towing. Every truck is different, but I think he principals are the same.
  7. @Ben the Smarty for me took a really hard time to learn the tuning to it. the article I wrote seems to apply to the automatic trucks for some weird reason. But at 322 BAR my truck seems as smoke free as ever. And with this new modified valve body I hope its finally smoke free..
  8. You need to run odd SW#, try SW5, TM3 Timing 4 and Duration on 4. These are my current settings and my truck spools like a chainsaw and the turbo lights really low. I can hit 35lbs of boost very easily and she hauls like a freight train. Although popping my injectors at 322BAR did make a big difference as well. The Lower the timing ie say 2 or 3 he more you must get into the throttle before the smarty locks the timing. Of course the higher the SW# the faster it reaches 100% throttle.. Thus SW9 with the Timing on 4 I suspect you will have the exact same issue I have with mine.
  9. I believe @Evan is suffering from the same issues I had I had. Can you tell me what your modifications are? I wrote up a huge article over in the articles setting here that maybe of use for you. I can't get my phone to post it. IDK why it's acting up. This is what I wore to try and explain the settings and how they work based on my truck. My99 with an automatic did allot of the things you describe in this thread. But my truck when it's tuned seems to run great.
  10. I'm running 1/2 line from tank to FASS then 3/8's from fass to VP. I'm also running a fass 150 spring cut down to hit 18psi at idle. with the old 95gph spring i could go from 17psi at idle down into the 8psi range with my smarty on the right settings. I always would tap the throttle on the way back as I was slowing down. Burt with the 150 spring I may see 15 psi hammer on the floor. The main issue is that cylinder pressure far exceeds the 4,300psi of your injectors, if your running hard like that with high boost pressure.
  11. Every turbo charged engine. Weather on my personal rig, or the freightliners at work. I'll idle it as long as needed to hit 250f. If I'm towing heavy 10,000 or more I've found it takes upwards of 5 to 8 mins of idling to get the exhaust and the turbo to cool down. If it's less then 3 mins I leave it idle. A cheap trick I learned to help cool it down is to downshift and let the engine free rev. It runs nice cool air thought the combustion chamber, the exhaust manifold and the turbo charger. It makes a big difference. Despite this added info it's best to let it idle down. Shot your truck off and expect a 150f rise in temps. As long as your under your engine oil coking temper your good. But that's in the mid 400s anyways.
  12. It actually does both. When it's really hot I've had it help cool the transmission fluid coming out of it before going to my air to trans cooler. It's nice in the winter as it helps warm up the fluid, but once the teams temp gets over the engine coolant temp it starts to cool it down to the coolant temp. Is it necessarily who knows, but I have hit 220f in driving traffic, and I know it does deep it back down but I don't have a probe after it. My probe is pre block cooler.
  13. Can I ask where you got this filter? And where in the return system it's located? I would love to do one, since I replaced the gear box.
  14. I should clarify. My head's a little doofy since I've been in the hospital. That's a good thing to see. Yes back cutting the valves I think it's the proper term. Back cutting the valves and porting the exhaust side. Then you cut match the exhaust on the head to the manifold and you will see. But do let me know what they say I'm really interested in what they say.
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