24VTurbo

No sir all the chip does is steal the signal before it gets to the VP44 and changes timing/fuel rate. when i install this 12V into my truck the only wiring im going to have is for my gauges, and a power wire my ignition to the FSS ( fuel shut-off solenoid ) so no more chip, motor will be full mechanical. REAL RAW all the time horse power! not reyling on a chip for power!!

Hey buddy, Do you know how the tach runs on our trucks? when I do this swap swap and use my ECM for gauges Everything should work from the research ive done. But havent figured out how our tachs works, do the read of the VP44? or are the run off alternator? please help me out if you know!

No not a thing is wrong with my truck, just sick of the sh***y mpg, codes, and the hundreds of problems our trucks have. putting a VE in my truck would make it the perfect/reliablist truck and would get waaay waaay better miledge! The only thing I dont like is having to use my old harness and ECM for my gauges to work. but Ill make it really clean and out of the way ( my trucks wiring was a complete mess ) also im still not sure on how my tach is going to work :banghead: if I dont like this swap i can always install my old motor/setup back in. but if it does go in it WILL be getting a P-pump before it even toches the motor mounts

so I just picked up a 90' VE pumped 12 valve motor for $1500. Im going to swap out my 24 valve with this motor .few reasons, miledge, relyabilty, and next to no electronics!I know its a direct swap, Im just hoping there is a way to retain my factory gauges? Also has any body seen this done to our body style yet?and what are your guys' thoughts? dont knock me to to bad! Im just sick of these constant codes, poor miledge, constantly worrying about my fuel pressure, and how everything is sooo expensive for these motors!

yeah i understand... thats shitty miledge

Come to think of it, my fuel pressure jumps around like 2-3 psi. But if I stand on my truck I can roal coal like crazy! Or as my buddy would say "youtube worthy" :P. I was a few minutes behind schedule this morning and I drove 75 mph the whole way to work and that 14 liter top off and then some is gone in 39 km's.

I'd check the ground cable on it I bought a 3 foot battery cable with 2 flat ends with holes and grounded it to my block where the drivers side battery ground cable goes too. (dr.front bottom by corner of oil pan) also when its cold take a ohms meter and check if power is coming to the grid heater on the back two studs facing firewall running and also off with key in on postion ( might need a friend if its not cold where you are! I know mine stays on for a good 15 seconds right now and its only like -2 out side!!). I sure hope this is the problem because Im guessing a "grid heater" isnt cheap!!!!

so I dont have a drip can, i just have a hose hanging down in front of my diff. and I have excessive blow by as far as im concerned for 60,000km.... is something plugged? or done wrong or is there a better set up? i have very high Oil pressure too. 100+ psi cold ( gauge only reads to 100 ) and 50-60 hot idleing. would that have something to do with it? not sure what to build/buy to make this more of a breather then undercoating my truck

I have a very expensive stewart warner mechanical oil pressure gauge on my truck. My gauge only reads till 100psi, but when I cold start it will barey the gauge! and when its up to temp. im always 50-60psi idleing depending on how thin the oil is!!so yes yours is perfectly fine. my motor was rebuilt by cummins in Regina SK. and paid the $210.00 extra for a 25% better oil pump.

okay.. so I got 103km on my od. i filled up, took 14.98L If i read and did the math right thats pretty much 19 MPG on that 103km not?I just wanted to see if babying the truck helped! i got 1/4th my usual mileage (400km-450km) for $17.42 and my fuel gauge still over full! I never realized driving like a grandma and feathering the throttle andkeeping the boost and smoke down would make that big of differance!so If my od is out because of my tires would this make my miledge go up or down?my buddy has a new hyper tech programmer for sale for $100.00. it wont work on his cummins cause somebody cut the data link off on his truck! :doh:should I buy this and get my speedo set up right? also can that programmer help my truck out miledge wise?

Ive been using the odometer... it would be out you figure? - - - Updated - - - best I got was 600km or 650km I cant remember that was bone stock. now I filled up last night and I got 92 km and its still over full! is this good???? . I never once got into the throttle, kept my smoke down to none at all basically, and drove a steady 55mph. about 8 km of that is not highway. If i go fill up right now how would I calculate my miledge? i have my receipt from last night: (this was almost on the fuel light) litres: 95.38 price: $1.17/L total: $112.45 so how many litres would my tank hold? im confuseed on how to figure out my miledge. im gunna go top up my tank and see what I get! - - - Updated - - - this is my truck p.s

Well sounds like its time to swap in a 1st gen ve cummins. I really don't want to get into changing my gears and ditching my $3400 tires and wheels. I just thought something was wrong with truck cause when I bought it it was bone stock and I've always gotten shitty miledge...

codes are: p0237 turbo boose sensor A circut low ( I unplugged my chip while it was running before I went to get codes read. CEL came on and went out as soon as I plugged it in. Im guessing I got this code from doing that?P1689 no communication between ecm and Injection pump, this was the code I kept getting when the main plug on my vp was brocken. I never did clear codes after I fixed it. so that would have been from then. anyways I cleared the codes, filled up and drove 55 mph home. (40 km) usually this would take me 1/8th of a tank. but its still over full... I usually drive 90km/h on my speedo at 1900 rpms. I used my gps this time and turns out i have been going 70mph this whole time. when I go 55mph my motor is only turning 1400 rpms. is this to low? or is that okay. it was hard to keep a constant 55 mph because I barely had any pressure on pedal at all lol. this tank Im gunna drive 55mph and well see what happens. I cleaned the IAT sensor ( plugged solid ) i could tell immeditally the difference in the responisvnice of truck. Im going to cleap map tommorow, set my APPS, and set my valves as well. and see if this helps at all. has anyone screwed around with valve lash? like gone a few thousands tighter???

The IP say's reman on it. when I got the truck I put a FP gauge on it. it was 14psi idle and 9psi WOT. I replaced it with a brand new Cummins fuel pump. and it brought it up to 15 & 11, and no white smoke ever... - - - Updated - - - The codes ive gotten are ( no communication between ECM and IP ) turned out to be plug on back of IP was cracked and was hit and miss making a connection... new wiring harness later... and the over boost code I use to always get until I chiped it now i havent seen it. But like I said ill get them checked tonight..

Wow! i never even thought of cleaning that sensor! I know when the motor was rebuilt I just screwed it back in and I remember is was BLLLLAAAACCCKKK! and that was 25,000 km ago!!! im gunna do that before I go to my buddys and scan my truck!! thanks! - - - Updated - - - 450km is at quarter tank. its usually $110-$130 fill. the best I ever got was 600 km when the truck was BONE stock and i had a tail wind the whole way.