Tex_usa

Ok guys sorry for the long absence. I finally got time to get out to it and was able to swap the injectors out for my old stock ones that I know work and are fine. I also replaced the fuel return line washers just to make sure no air was getting in there. I tried cranking and made sure I was getting fuel all the way to the feeder tubes then snugged up the fuel lines. After cranking for another 15 min I finally tried to spray some ether and it would fire up as long as I sprayed the ether but as soon as I stopped it would die again. I checked a few of the injectors and there was diesel in the hole when I pulled them back out so I think it is getting to the injector. My main question is can a cummins turn over and run on ether with low compression? Could it be to low to run with the diesel but then with the ether it still can? Any info I greatly appreciate and thank you so far for all the responses

@IBMobile 10-4

Wow thank you all for the advice! @dripley I have not run a compression test due to the fact I do not have the equipment and would have to have it shipped in. I saw one guy pull an injector and turn it over with a rag over the empty hole to see if it had any at all but I didn't know if that was a good idea or not. @Mopar1973Man I was not aware that they were this hard to start after a head gasket replacement. Last time I did injectors I bled it and started right up. I'll bring some starter fluid and see what happens. Would I disconnect the air horn and spray it in there? @Dieselfuture The head was not that good of a deal, as far as I saw most new heads are all made over seas at this point 🙃 but it was not a Chinese one.(Wanting to say Taiwan) @Silverwolf2691 As for the starter is seems like it is turning it over fine but when I work on it this weekend I'll get a video and upload it to YouTube then link it here. The smoke is lazy and isnt sweet. I didn't see the lines being bled last time so this time I will watch while GF cranks.

@dripley well drat, that was my fear, I'll still try swapping out the injectors but now I'm guessing it is probably something else. I just don't understand how a new head with orings could have low compression.

@Dieselfuture Nope no codes at all. That is another thing that puzzled me. I did double checking the valve lash just to make sure that it was set right and even tried starting without the quadzilla on it. My thought is maybe the one injector is not sealing right and letting all the pressure out. If this were the case non of the other injectors would be able to pop as the pump would be sending all the fuel to that one injector that is leaking? I will try and post what I find this weekend. Pic is of the one messed up injector.

@Silverwolf2691yes sir that is what I ment/did still nothing. I don't know what the slight white smoke means. I couldn't find anything on it other then one post saying it could be a stuck open injector or leaking feed tube. Because I have the one injector that is beat up I'm hoping it Is that. The other thing I noted was that my fuel gauge on my lift pump never stays above 20 where I have it set. @dripley yes I did do that.

Sorry for the long delay. I've had one hell of a past week. I finally got everything put back together last week and bled the injector lines then tried to start and it would not start whatsoever. I pulled the injectors and double checked to make sure everything was fitting right then put it all back and still nothing. It has a very little bit of white smoke coming from the exhaust but other then that I'm lost. I read alot of other posts saying that injectors almost are always the issue so this weekend I am going to try and swap my old stock injectors in and see if that makes any difference. The other thing I will check when swapping out the injectors is check the cylinders with my bore camera. Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't all these trucks run off of is compression and the injectors? So it has to be one of the 2?

On the injector I put these in about a year ago from ducky injection. I don't remember seeing that when doing it. What would cause it to get beat like that? This was the first time doing injectors on a diesel so if it's something I could have caused I'd like to avoid it.

Ok so I'm tearing mine apart right now and I got a few questions, I pulled my injectors and noticed one that looked like it had been beat up on the side. Should I be worried about this? Second here is the picture of the one ring I'm worried about. Is it OK to have that barb on it or will it cause it to wear through the gasket? As for the head studs I'm going to use exotic since I won't be pushing more then 50 psi. I've seen a few builds on YouTube that the guy responded 3 years latter still holding fine.

I gotcha. I guess I'll just have to compare once I get the old head out. It's just odd that they would put all the other ones in except one. Also @Mopar1973Man have you ever had any freeze plugs pop out with pushing 50 psi of boost?

Ok sorry for the late response, was going to get that picture then my passenger wheel bearing locked up on me in a parking lot and I spent the night fixing it before vacation. I'm back now and am planing on starting the tear down tomorrow. I think the ring should be fine I talked to a few machine shops and they all said it should be fine. There are some freeze plugs that still need to be installed and there is one small one that I cannot figure out where it is located. If any of yall have a diagram for the head freeze plugs let me know.

I'll try and get a picture tonight sorry I haven't had much time lately. On my head I had them put orings in and most of them are all flush where the two ends of the wire meet up. But there is on that has a small gap and feels a little rough like it wasn't filed flat. I read on another site that the gap should be fine as it is not the sealing factor just extra clamping force.

Ok update on this I just got the head and everything looks good. I did notice one of the rings feels a little rough where the two ends meet. Should I be worried about that? I don't want it meeting up my head gasket.

Well I just ordered a new head with orings from DK motors out of GA. The owner was really nice and gave me a deal on the head. I will try and keep yall updated as I progress with this. One other thing has anyone used xotic head studs? I've seen a few guys using there 220,000 and holding 600hp no problem. I know I'm not going to be going over that so I thought I would try them. @Doubletrouble The way I've seen it done either you remove the wipers and somehow get them back there that way or I've seen some people use sockets as spacers with the rods in the head until they set it down.

I didn't even think about the block being bored over. I don't know the history so I guess I will have to get one hg larger as well? Would it cause any issue with getting the head oringed? I had read that for the arp 2000s I did not need to do any tap as they are the same size as the stock head bolts? They said only the 14mm needed a tap. If you have info on this let me know as this was one of the reasons I wanted to get the arp 2000s. One other thing I keep seeing is a thick and thin head gasket. What situation is each one needed for?

Thank you so much for all the response! The engine and is in a dodge but was pulled from a 2002 (mine is a 2001) Right now I'm pushing at max 40psi but my waste gate is set to that so I really don't know how much it will open up once I open it up more. The head I'm looking at is already machined and has orings (https://powerdrivendiesel.com/product/1998-2002-loaded-cummins-head-5-9l/) so all I would need is the gaskets and arp 2000s. Talked to a shop this morning for getting my head resurfaced and they quoted me about $1500 for that and rings plus $1400 for labor to pull it and then replace the hg. At that price I could get the new head and do it myself or they said if I brought everything they would swap it out for $1400 Thank you for the advice about trunnions after some more searching I found people saying to swap these. As for the springs I don't hit 3k rpm and don't see me pushing 60psi so I think I will stay stock. Another question I had was do I need a specific gasket for orings? Or can I just use a cummins oem hg? Also what all did yall have to do to your block when replacing the hg? Did you wet sand or just clean up with rags?

Thank you for the input! With the current setup I have should I change my valve springs to 103s or anything else while I'm rebuilding the head? I don't know the hp on it currently as I just got my nv5600 biult up and then this happens.

Would I also need to resurface the short block? I see car people saying that I need to but I never see anyone with a cummins doing that.

Ok this is my first time posting here so if I'm missing something please let me know. I'm relatively new to the diesel world but have read multiple posts on here as well as other sites about replacing a head gasket. My first question is do you need to resurface the block in addition to the head when doing a hg replacement on these 24v cummins? Also Is it common for the head to be cracked at 200k This is my dd and I noticed that I am leaking oil right where the head and block meet. I cleaned it up and drove it some more and it definitely looks like it is leaking from the head gasket. I would need to replace it during a weekend and want to make sure I will not have any surprises that I am not aware of. I've looked at getting a new head with rings but I don't know what all I would need to do in addition to just a hg replacement. Engine is from a 2002 2500, has S363/68/12 with 7x.010 Injectors and a quadzilla adrenaline.

Vehicle Nickname: Tex Date Added To The Garage: 2021-07-11 Garage Link: Tex