quoris

Thanks for the input so far. The turbo whistle is mechanical music for me and i want it to sing like the fully built sled pullers. I know that is not practical but I would like to get as close as i can with my tow pig. I did some shopping for the Allison and found that it has an optional PTO. With that i could do a lot like put a hydraulic pump to run ????? well anything from a wench to a generator for my camper, but still not sure if that is the right way to go. My truck tows the slide in camper and a 10k trailer, picks up the kids from school, grabs the gallon of milk, ect. I do want reliability because i go deep in the woods camping with it. I put this post up to brain storm and find out how to get to my goal, so ideas and thoughts out side the box are appreciated too. Well since the compound turbo will whistle better i will go that route, but what combo do i need? I would go for the bigger exhaust housing since i have an auto tranny. Give me a set of blue prints and i can build it but i can't build the blue prints. I don't get all that science stuff with turbos. I get lost when trying to size a turbo looking at a compressor map.

Well I got a 01 3500 stock auto slush box. stock hy turbo. stock, stock, stock. Easier to talk about the few upgrades I do have. Airdog 150, BHAF, Old programmer/tuner from like 2002. I am at cross roads as to what to do next. one is how to build the engine. The other is what tranny to put in it. My goals are to have a tow monster and power to have fun with. I don't mind slow turbo spool up speed but i do want one hell of a loud turbo whistle from the intake. I want compound turbos and I know a single turbo might be an option but am thinking it can't do it. I am able to fab up the mandrel bent pipe for the intake. I am not opposed to buying a bolt on kit just need to weigh my options. I will do studs and maybe upgrade the intake springs to run higher boost to get more whistle if it would be worth it. Not sure what combo of turbos to get, or what injectors to put in it. The tranny will be a 47re of course or adding two extra gears to it with an Allison. A bolt on Allison is 12k down to 5k. The transmission is the toughest decision to make. I know the 47re can do it but will it hold up for 200,000 miles like the Allison will all stock. Almost forgot i need an exhaust brake on this setup as well. As far as HP numbers go i don't know. The Airdog might be my limiting factor on that. Just trying to weigh all the options I have for the setup I want. Forgot to mention 4x4 and 4 inch exhaust

I looked on e-bay and did not see that one. Thanks for finding that. I'll buy that and be done. thank you for you help.

I had the 4inch strait pipe that ended just before the rear tire and the drone was so bad my wife and I could barely have a conversion on the hwy. Put two stright pipe mufflers on it (DONALDSON stainless steel) ran all the way to rear of tire and all good now.

Ya Rock Auto is $218.88 for 32 of them. I could understand ARP stud kit but these are just plain stock lugnuts. 2nd tank just because I can. Extra range and stuff. Ran out of fuel in Nevada with a Ford Explore that got 13mpg and only had a 12gal tank. NOT FUN!!

At Les Schwab to buy a set of M-55's and switch from the old and corroded aftermarket aluminum dully wheels to stock steel and found out that my lugnuts will not work with the stock wheel and that i need to buy a set of 32 lugnuts at $11 bucks a piece. Can any one help? On a side note i am thinking of putting a second fuel tank in place of the spare tire. direct me to a old thread or chime in. My idea is to have the second tank feed into the stock one, so when the stock tank gets dry flip a switch and refill it with the second tank.

I live in Newport are you with source automotive? (RIP)

In Oregon but want to do some atv ridding in Idaho and Nevada. 18psi. I have the HY turbo (known for high egt) . Grade of Hill? I have no idea. if to guess I would say 5 and up are my problem. No leak check but I don't suspect any.

The etg is read before the turbo and not after like most. I have the tall gears not the 410's. Stock tires. I have an old 2003 superchips tuner.

I have the torque converter lockup switch, and wanted to know if I can use the 125 sticks for more power towing when I am locked up. I am towing 12000 lbs with stock truck and finding when going up Hills with over drive off I can't maintain speed and drop to 2nd gear. Then engine temp goes up and of course transmission temp as well. I am afraid that if I hit a big Hill I will need to pull over to cool transmission. I don't want to have to stop so I was thinking if I had a little more power I might be able to keep it locked up in 3rd and not drop down to 2nd and over heat transmission. Have Turner set to tow safe with bhaf and 4 inch exhaust. And my max exhaust temp was 1300 before turbo. Any input would be nice!

Well it was a broken wire at the ignition switch. I took the female spade out of the wiring harness and un-soldered & un-crimped it and re-crimp & re-soldered again. All is ok now. I never move the tilt up and down but my son was having trouble putting his seatbelt on so i tilted the column up to reach behind to help and then it did not start. thank you guys for the help!

Well it was a broken wire at the ignition switch. I took the female spade out of the wiring harness and un-soldered & un-crimped it and re-crimp & re-soldered again. All is ok now. I never move the tilt up and down but my son was having trouble putting his seatbelt on so i tilted the column up to reach behind to help and then it did not start. thank you guys for the help.

one more thing my super chips tuner can't communicate. it asks to turn the ignition switch on and off to establish communication but fails to do so.

Ok so i turn the ingition switch on and The dash lights are dead, no radio, no wipers. no instrument panel, fuel pump does not cycle on for the normal two seconds, and the wait to start light dose not come on. tail lights work, head lights work, hazard lights work heater fan comes on and blows air. When i turn the ignition switch to the start position the blower turns off and that is it. My three gages on the pillar light up when the ignition switch is turned on but the have no power and do not light. I checked the fuses and i am thinking that the ignition switch may be bad. not sure how to check just a guess really.

Well it is no longer a 911 issue. Now it is a broken truck in the driveway issue.

funny you talk about the tilt steering column. I did tilt it up to help my son buckle. then tried to start and that is where the problem started.

All fuses are good. Tested with test lamp

I got a tow home from a buddy. But no wipers, radio, Turn signal, instrument gage dead, no dashlights. I am thinking ignition switch.

I got off work drove to School to pick up my kids and now it will not start. turn on ignition for the wait to start engine light but no display on dash. no dash lights, radio as well. heater fan works and comes on as well as the Chime. Can call me at 503-522-6462 my name is john

ok some you you guys will find this hard to believe but after the last updated i checked my front and rear differential fluid and the front was dirty and the rear was pitch black. i replaced the fluid with full synthetic gear oil and have not had the problem since. after 1000 miles i put the front prop shaft back in and still no problem so as odd as it sounds and as hard as it is for me to believe changing the differential fluid fixed the problem. only thing i can think of is the noise was actually coming from the clutch in the rear end, and was acting up making the rumble strip noise.

could i have put the u-joints in wrong? Can they be out of phase like a drive line?

Well i checked the u-joins at the knuckle that i replaced and all of the caps and clips are there. I did find play in the u-joint at the front yoke. I can just barely feel it. The wheel bearing is tight and has no play. The u-joints went in tight. I will take out the front prop shaft and see it it still vibrates and shakes the truck. Thank you for your time on this. - - - Updated - - - OK I tore out the front drive shaft and found that all the play was in the slip joint of the drive shaft and the u-joints were nice and tight. I am going to drive it around with out the front drive shaft and see it makes a difference. - - - Updated - - - Ok I drove it home tonight with out the front drive shaft and it still is making the noise. This time it would not stop until I slowed down below 40mph. I am thinking a lose bearing in the front differential but I just am not sure. I know that wont be cheap to fix if that is the problem.

I have searched the forum hoping some one else has had this problem but can't find one (4x4 01 3500). I replaced my u-joints that are connected to the front axles about a month ago because I found them loose when doing some maintenance on the truck. Put about 500 miles on it scene then and about a week ago I had a fast vibration on the truck. At first I thought I was on the shoulder of the road and was hitting a Rolled-in rumble strip, but I did not see any rumble strip in the road. It happens when i am going above 40mph and it will last for about 3-5 seconds and seems to get started when i hit a bump or a recess in the road. I live in Newport Oregon and commute on Hwy 101 which is a rough road. I can feel it in my feet it is kinda violent and I think it is coming from the front drive train. I almost forgot the vibration is getting harder and more frequent.