GreenRiverCummins

Yeah i really wanted the smarty but been waiting for a year to get one wasn't gonna wait another week. And i bought the truck with the Banks Chip in it which sucked didn't run right caused a "Dead pedal" and so on. But got a little over 500 miles on this new TS chip...I always loved to drive this truck but, now i love it more lol It made a beliver out of my two Chevy/Import fan boy Co-Worker's when i took them for a roll around some old back road's near work. The truck finaly has a Top end before 2200 RPMS was flat faced beyond that but, now at 2900 i got power to spare EGT's are down by about 300F between the Bigger exhaust and Chip and about a 1-3 mpg difference on open road's the real test will be when i tow my camper again. And thanks for the Compliments sorry the truck looked dirty at the time of pic had just finished the exhaust and air gate install. Will get a good one tomorrow

So today was a sucessfull day My cousin bought a new to him ford Diesel and took off the new set of 5' stack kit with 6' miter cut's off. In place of his black single stack kit he had. Then i found out later He also had the diamond plate cover to hide the pipes he meant to give me which i will get tomorrow. Got the whole kit which cost $707 for the kit $279 for the cover for only $250 and got it hooked up and in looks good sound's amazing way better then the old 4' Sinlge out the back or my 4' dual stack kit. Then i bought a pair of "Handy" brand Airgates from a dodge junk yard Valued at $359 a piece for $225 for the pair one was a little bent on one bar and needed some fresh paint which i took care of quick and easy. I had been debateing between a Edge Comp, Bank's or smarty Programmer but after calling 7 local (Within 150 miles from home) Diesel shops or store's no one had any of the 3 instock and would be wedensday at the earliest. Then i called TS Performance which is only 30 miles down the road and had a talk about there MVP Chip and decided to give it a try. I got the Chip put in for free and it cost only $500 for the chip and i am very impressed with how it woke this stock Cummins up. It's stackable with a smarty so if i wanted to i could still get the smarty down the road but, I will keep y'all informed of how it last or hold's up. But here are a few pics of my truck now sorry it's dirty atm gonna wash it monday when its warm and sunny lol

Warning Rant ahead lol So am i the only one who feel's the price of used diesel trucks has hit epic stupidity level's??? I know they last longer and seem to be better equiped to certain job's but, I'm seeing stuff that looks like it's one day away from the scrap yard selling for $5000....when it's really only worth $500...The older they are the higher the price i mean i seen today a 91' model dodge 3500 single rear wheel truck 4x4 reg cab with dents, ding's, hole's, and rust EVERYWHERE... 500,000 mile's leaking fluid's from every orfice possible while the only good piece on it is the $800 set of Stacks and there asking $7500 with a rebuilt title....wth??? why is this Myself and a friend went looking a few years a go for truck's I found a great deal a 2001 dodge 2500 4x4 V10 auto with 70k mile's on it 0 rust it did have a rebuilt title (Tree limb broke the windshield and the passenger front door).. I paid $2500 and $500 for repairs and the paint was half that cost so $3000 it's got 170k on it now and (Knock on wood) to this point only ever done normal maintenice on it brake pads, oil, filter's etc..And i pull the same load's if not bigger and can leave him in the dust while i get 10-13 MPG But He bought a 2001 dodge 2500 4x4 with a rebuilt title with the 24val auto, 300k mile's then 400k now, rust all over, and leaks everywhere and he paid over $9500 and had to replace the lift and inj pump a month later and still works on it all the time and only get's 15 MPG... He said that the MPG made up for the $6,500 difference (not including his constant repair's) if you do the math I'm way better off as i've got people wanting to buy it mine for $6,500 atm and he has Junkyard's offering him $800 in scrap .....I understand the older stuff will last longer and less prone to fail as todays modern computer stuff but i can get a gasser and do the same or more for a 1/4 the price is there any sign of the market going down any time soon i want to add another Diesel truck to my line up so i can retire my old 1974 Dodge D300 and 2001 dodge 1500 (My first truck) so i can restore them... But i will not give gold price's for a polished turd.. anyone else with me Guess my rant is over

Well it kinda come's down to how often you go, How far you go, and How many people want to come along. The first Pic is of my Parent's camper they bought to try out camping a few years ago It's a 2005 Starcraft Travel star 32' about 6000pds loaded for a week long stay. Great camper but, needed some minor repairs and only cost us 3K including repairs. When i used my old Mega cab (Before it got Totaled a few years ago) man it towed so good behind my truck i never knew it was back there. I've towed it with my New to me persay 2001 dually 24 val HO 6spd same thing never know its there pulls great and the brakes on it were strong even on 3.0 they could stop my truck on a dime... Now that My Mom, dad, sister, Her husband, my self, Grandmother, and great aunt and a Blue healer mix and my Big old Bassett hound want to come we needed another camper and a bigger one at that so....Last year I scored a killer deal on this 1998 Newmar Moutain aire got it for $7,500 its a 40' footer and weights in at a Whoppin 19,000pds loaded for the same length stay. My Dually know's that baby is there it can pull it and stop it no trouble but, just don't be in a rush it'll do 75 all day down the interstate but why i'm on vaction why rush...So what is your criteria for this new camper As far as MPG I get about 16 pulling my parent's camper and 13 pulling mine unless i'm showing off then it goes down more lol Cause when you see a bunch of Hot girls checking you and your truck out....yeah your gonna lug that baby a little hehe but really not a huge difference in MPG between them.

Can't wait to see it finished but, i would recomened if you haven't considered this(May have done it already lol) To clean and scrub the whole back frame, rear end, etc. really good degrease it and hand sand it, primer, and Bedliner it or as i did spray paint it flat black and/or Gloss black. I know when i took my bed off i washed, degreased, sanded, Primer x2 coat's, Flat black x2 coats, Gloss Black x2 coats everywhere and a nice coat Bedliner on the rails to top it off. 2 years later not a speck of rust to be found. I would also replace the Fuel sending unit ie. Fuel gauge while your down there i didn't on mine week later gauge went bad gonna have to take it back off to fix just haven't done it. But if you've thought of this already or have done it never hurt's to throw it out there

So today on The way to get the parts for our company truck while in my 01 3500 ram. I came around a curve and on the other side of the 2 lane road. I seen a doe standing next to the road I was going about 55 mph in 6th out of habit I geared down and let off the fuel pedal. The doe ran toward the fence and began to jump over mid jump she turned around and ran across the road as I got there I hit it dead center of my front bumper. I said some words as the deer went sliding down the road about 40 foot or so then off to my side. So I rode up past and got out to check for damage on the truck and there was almost no damage on it. I broke the bad fog light I was gonna replace. And moved the bumper back on the slotted holes. Ran to confirm the deer was dead and not suffering which it was dead on impact thankfully at 55 mph I can see why. But to think that bumper saved me thousands of dollars and I plan on putting one on all my trucks soon that was the best $600 dollars I ever spent. So my advice is of for it it will save you serious money had a local body shop estimate if I didn't have it based on previous wrecks like this one came in at 6k+/- depending on how good a job you want done

Yes that's it thank you very much I was looking for a blow up pic like that

Here's the said bracket i need thanks err take 2 (Note to self hit attach File genius) lol Also heres the rubber Hose with half of wha i need but i need the Bracket http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Brake-Hose-Rear/_/R-UBK38576_0336597624

As the title says i need the "Proper Term" for a piece on a 1998 Dodge 3500. And i'm in kind of a rush persay as I leave in 2 days for a 4 day weekend at the lake. And the boss wants the truck fixed i need outta my Drive way to get my camper out. Anyway's Today our work truck had a problem just to fill y'all in on how "Fun"it was. Sooo my coworkers used the company truck 3 time's today with no issue persay I was asked to go pick up a Tractor. As they returned in the truck i jumped in road back to the field and hooked up the trailer. Grabed the money for the tractor and headed out. I got down the gravel road hit the brake's and the rear tires grabed and drug alittle (Normal dually on gravel drag but, a little worse). Since the others had just returned thought nothing of it took off down the road. Got to the top of a big 6% hill hit tow haul to slow me down as i always have done. It geared down slowed up from 55-45. Then i easied the brake pedal down only it went right to the floor ZERO brakes.... i easied the truck down into second then first thank fully no one was coming as i was doing about 15mph when i got to the T junction . I went ahead to the left as i live a 1/4 mile back the next road past the T junction in the wood's. Made it to my drive rolled up the hill my drive way is and threw it into park and shut it off. Poped the hood seen the Master clyinder was bone dry... I knew then a line had busted sometime today. Turns out it was the metal to rubber junction on the frame rail had ruster clear into... does anyone know the name of it since the moron 15yr cashier cant find wiper blades unless they know if its a Diesel or gas or 2x4 or 4x4. They can't help without a name to input into computer. Chilton dosent have it neither does Haynes. Any help would be great And since this was a northren truck and was obviosly never cleaned rust is bad real, real, bad so i told the boss since i'm back tthere and everything is rusted in-to or together i'm replacing it all with new from the Drum's, Shoe's, Sping kit, Wheel clyinder's, Both metal line's the rubber line, the Rear end sensor or Speed sensor i belive, and the piece in question its the one where the long front to back metal line goes in to the rubber line that goes to the Junction. can get a pic if needed but its dark out. lol hope y'all can help thanks for reading..

I myself have always used Castrol in every thing i drive from my mom's 06 Mazada 3 to my 01 dodge 2500 V10. At one point i was told to use Rotella T 15W-40 in my V10 the original owner had used castrol for the first 130k changed it every 3 months/3000 said it never used a drop i used the same for the 36k i have owned it same rotation of changes but, one month i used the before mentioned Rotella T and in about 1500 miles it used a total of 6 quartz of oil had to add more every day so after only 2000 miles i went back to Castrol 15W-40 hasn't used a drop since. And i only use Valvoline Blue jug 15W-40 In my 01 24 valve Cummins it's great stuff uses about half-a-quart every 3 months or 5000 miles but, i only drive it about 400 miles a month give or take nowaday's. I also run a quart of Lucas Oil stabilizer ever oil change. My grandfather always said any time you switch brands after using one kind for a long time it will begin to burn more to which i belive is true after the Rotella T incident but that stuff is like water IMHO lol

Great news all I had my Dealer friend get the part (At a great discount $150 for steering box and Pitman Arm) we removed the old one and reinstalled the new one truck drives great now! Steering is tenfold super tight he said an alignment would be best so will try to save up for that thanks all for the info and help glad to have her back out on the road I just filled my Diesel up washed and waxed up and parked it for a well deserved rest. Now I get to play with my V10 for awhile

Well more bad news my neighbor brought the dealers puller and I went to autozone and rented there puller as well for 95+tax. We used the autozone puller first and after three attempts one side of the puller broke off... Then we tried heating the pitman arm end with a torch and tried the other one. Also tried using a numatic(Air chisel) with a Pitman fork on the end and even all those at the same time it wouldn't budge. So I returned the broke puller and got my money back and ordered a new Steering gearbox and a new pitman arm. I'm just gonna replace both of them with new and save any more headache. After 2 months and 6 or 7 pullers later I'm done I have never seen this before I can go through a dealer and get the Gearbox and pitman arm for $190 total $270 on my own that's a large mark up if you ask me but I will let ya'll know when I get them on.

Thanks for all the info and links my neghibor who works at the dealer has gotten the 2 from the dealership replaced and were gonna give it a go tomorrow weather permiting and the first Puller was from Pier 19 but the other one's were from my work(Farm machinery Mech we use on tractor's and such really HD) and the other two were ford dealer pullers guess once again dodge is to much for Ford Tool's lol will keep ya'll informed

So as the title say's I am STILL (lol over a month or two now) trying to remove the Pitman arm from the bottom of my 2001 dodge 1500 4x4. And so far it's been a pain in the butt to say the least. We can get the nut off really easy and it is all really clean aswell mostly cause the Seal in the Gearbox is bad and leaks fluid. I bought the Repair kit and thought it would be a quick fix....Wrong.. lol But at this point we've broke my Pitman arm puller, the one from my work and 2 of my negihbors pullers from his work it snaps the fingers right off it just won't budge. To me the last hope is to heat it with a Torch but i dont won't a fire or the destroy the gearbox does anyone have any other idea's. I want to fix it to let my Cummins and V10 rest as my daily driver's hehe though they are fun the V10 cost an arm, a leg, my future first born and if i countine to drive possible my second j/k but 14mpg is rough on the wallet and i would rather let my Cummins rest for half the big loads alongside my V10 thankfully my cummins gets 18+ and its only 6 miles Round trip to work so i only spend about $20 a week total on fuel between the 2. Compared to 23 when i could drive my 1500 So again any help would be great

Well I doubt the Calipers are bad the orignal owner repacled the front one's a week before i bought it along with the hard/and rubber line's due to some slight rust. He also changed the Brake fluid since he was in there. Have recipets to prove all that and i replaced the rear cailpers due to one locking up going down the road....I did use that grease stuff the 16yr old kid at autozone keep throwing at my face to buy telling me how i had to have it then giving me the wrong set of pads three time's. Learned the first time i drove all the way home to open the box to make sure whats inside is what i need.. And My driving style which even my father calls granny driving is to relase the gas pedal about a mile from a red light coast using the tranny to slow down(to a point if you have a Dual disk clutch you'll understand it can rattle my dash bezel off from the shakeing empty... loaded isn't nearly as bad.) Of course you never know they may be bad again will check to be sure quailty control is a joke today all about quantity now.