Aggie08

I see you got your dash from LMC. Where did you get the heater, a/c evap and blower? Looks like you did a great job!

Did you end up replacing the mounts, if so what did you use? I need to do the same to mine (at least driver side)

Any reason for the change in the lift pump running after shutdown? and for the length of time after?

I did park the truck and have a work truck to drive so I am good there. I do not have a scan tool but know a guy that might help me out if i can get it to him. Those grounds were apart of the wire brushing I did and know of good contact on those. I will update when i have a pressure reading on fuel. FYI when i bump the key my pump runs for its normal 4-5 seconds, then when key is turned off it will run for maybe 10 seconds (this has not been normal for the 5 years i have had it on)

Been trying to go throught the codes and then read code/ take it for a drive down the bock. Have not changed anything and its more of a sputter and some white smoke, truck temp shows around 170 when that happened. So i could take the comp completely out to see if that changed anything? From what i can tell the grid heater relays look good, the bracket under the battered was loose but that was it. (not grounded i assume) Timbo sent me a new APPS, think it would go out in a few miles? Fuel pressure will be determined after i get my gauges in (ordered them after Christmas).

To start off I replaced my clutch to a South bend 13" organic single about 4 weeks ago. Although i do not think this is related to my problems it was the start of everything. After clutch was replaced i had an antifreeze leak the day after with i found to be the water pump, fixed that issue with a new pump. Antifreeze was draining onto the belt which spread it over the engine bay (yippy...) Then came the dead pedal, 3 years ago i had replaced apps wit Timbo apps, so i email him and he sent me a new one and it solved the problem for 20 miles. then back to interment dead pedal. I have had one drive home where everything ran great and had not one problem (check engine light not on, no dead pedal) then it was back to messing up next morning. I have wire wheeled a few grounds but do not think I got all of them. ECM going bad, Alternator AC noise, just looking for opinions. Codes PCM-1693 ECM- 0216, 0121, 0222, 0122, 0217, 0382, 0237 I know this was all over the place but trying to give best picture, let me know of any questions. I did just unplug Edge Comp and check engine light turned off

The trans fluid did not have a metallic look to it but did seem burnt(dark brown). the sound that was mentioned in the first post has gotten worse in 5th gear but not 4th. Another issue, where the tcase and rear driveshaft is there is red fluid on the bottom of the bed so i know it is being slung, the tcase is still full of fluid from when i changed it about 6 months ago. I assume that is a seal I know its a lot of different info

To drain the trans you just take the PTO cover off correct? where is the fill whole? and probalby a loaded questions but what would the best fluid be to put back in it, I do not truck recommendations from the part stores anymore.

yessir- have not had to do that yet

hate to be a noob about this but is there a article or write up on how to get in there?

I will do that tomorrow, looked at dipstick and did not find any metal flakes. Oil was changed 2100 miles ago and did not notice anything then (smell and color looked normal for 7500 mile change). Did a quick run around again, inside rear driver side wheel is coated oil like substance that of course has crud mixed with it. Seal for that hub?

Easiest way to explain is when i am down shifting into 3rd 2nd and 1st it sounds like its winding down, matching the rpms (as it slows, the sound slows). It does not do it in 5th and 4th and started not to long ago. any ideas of where to even start looking? thanks for any help, i am sure more info will be needed so just ask away

AH- which kit do you use from them?

Where is the most reliable place to send in oil to have it tested? I have never done it before and would like to start checking it every so often. Is there any other fluids that should be tested? Thanks! I have done the antifreeze flush but not the break system or diffs

ok, replaced the front 2 sensors because the speedo was fine, after replacing the fronts the speedo woulod not read up to 10 mph on occasion so I replaced the rear sensor with the same brand. spacing was good on all new sensors compaired to old ones pulled out took it for a drive... ABS and break light went off for a quarter mile from the start then came back on, never going off again after ~10 miles. Fuses are still good under hood and in cab Any ideas? Thanks and Happy New Year to all