blacker_canyons

i dunno. I texted him to ask but he hasn't gotten back to me. It's 4x4. I know he would have put the transmission and transfer case in neutral, it's about 2 or 3 miles and the speed limit is like 25 in town.

I dont know anything yet. haven't done it. I was just reading another thread about not flat towing with the nv5600, and it reminded me that while I was out of town, I had a friend tow my truck to my place. I told him not to flat tow it, but it would be like him to just flat tow it anyway and not want to deal with the flatbed. Would that explain my hard shifting?

mine is an oreillys pre bled. it isn't adjustable. I'm going to try one more time to bleed it and see if that helps, then i'll be dropping the transmission for the second time in a month and checking out the other stuff.

yeah a rebuild is probably where I'm headed. I'm going to take it out and double check the pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch fork, and clutch fork pivot, as well as re-bleed the hydraulics. if that doesn't work, I'm going to rebuild it.

the pilot bearing was fine when I took the old one out. I was surprised because everyone I talked to was so sure it would be the pilot bearing. it wasn't. the bearing was in good shape and rolled smooth. The new bearing is much heavier duty ball bearing, it's not a thin needle bearing like the stock one. the transmission went in fine. the input shaft was fine. I really don't think it's the pilot bearing.

it's a pain. it's a full long day getting it out and then back in, particularly when doing it by yourself with the truck on the ground. the clutch hydraulics seem to be ok but it's still not shifting ok, so i'm fairly certain i need to rebuild the transmission. i'm going to check the clutch fork and the pivot, etc, but i'm fairly certain i'll need to rebuild the transmission. but yes, I also have to figure out why it's still leaking oil after I redid the rear main seal and the oil pain gasket. it's also leaking fluid out of the transfer case, and for whatever reason the vacuum isn't engaging the CAD for 4x4.

it's possible, but it looks like engine oil to me, not trans oil. either way, I have to pull the trans again. everyone keeps saying that about what great trucks they are. I'm waiting for that to actually be the case. so far, every time i fix something, something else breaks a week later. i'm about ready to just sell it for a loss and move on. winter in idaho is coming and I'm not real stoked about the increasing likelihood that this thing is going to leave me stranded in sub zero weather coming back from the grocery store.

so I did the process in this video: clutch was already really solid when I started. I cycled it a bunch anyway. last weekend I pulled my transfer case and transmission. in the process I found that there was oil on the adapter plate, so I replaced the rear main seal and gasket, as well as the clutch and flywheel. also did the oil pain gasket. got under there today and either I didn't put the rear main seal in correctly, or something else is leaking. pretty good amount of oil coming out of the bottom gap between the adapter plate and bell housing. seems like it's leaking at the junction where the rear main seal plate joins with the engine block and oil pan (really stupid design btw). so now I get to pull my transmission out again. I guess I'll plan on rebuilding the transmission at the same time since it'll be the second time in two weeks that I've had it out? yay. so glad I bought this truck. it's been so much FUN.

ok. so you think the transmission fluid is too thin and I need to bleed the clutch hydraulics? fwiw i actually started out with the valvoline and it wasn't any better so I tried the amsoil. neither one helped. clutch is valair single disc ceramic rated for 600hp with the 3800 pound pressure plate spring. ok. can you explain what non-double clutch "driving style" would make it work better? I've owned something like 18 manual cars and trucks and 11 manual motorcycles and i've never had grinding gear issues on any of them. granted, non of them were HD diesel. I've tried many different shifting styles and nothing seems to help it except double clutching into 3rd.

ok thank you. what do you think is actually the problem?

thank you, I appreciate the info. My suspicion currently is that it's the clutch hydraulics. they're just standard hydraulics from oreillys. the clutch I put in has a heavier spring than the stock one. it worked great at first but now it's not wanting to shift smoothly. if I double clutch, it's fine.

I don't know the history of the truck. the seller lied to me about a lot of things so I don't trust what he told me and I don't care to ask him any more questions. I've never been screwed by a seller before in over 30 used vehicle purchases, but I definitely got screwed this time. the mileage is 180k, like it says in my signature. I replaced the flywheel with a valair flywheel with a new heavy duty pilot bearing already installed in it. the clutch assembly came with a new release bearing, so I also replaced that. the clutch fork was fine, it showed no signs of wear. it has the very heavily recommended amsoil MTF, which was recently replaced, like I said. I initially replaced the master/slave assembly because it always felt like I needed to push the clutch farther to disengage it, but the brand new one feels exactly the same. it's not how I drive. I've been driving manual transmission vehicles for 30 years, all of my 20+ cars/trucks/vans have been manual except for 3 of them. I've never had any issues with them, except for this one.

have had my truck a few months. It worked well for about 1000 miles and has been a nightmare ever since. without getting into all the details of all the parts I've replaced and the ridiculous number of times and ways it's left me stranded in about 3500 miles, I'll just focus on the transmission issues here: it started gradually shifting worse and worse. Initially it seemed to mostly be 3rd gear, but eventually, over the course of a couple weeks, it was all the gears. Grinds the worst and the most consistently going into 3rd but now grinds in all the gears randomly, and the shifting in general is very hard. Can't get it into reverse without putting it into second and revving it first, and then quickly putting it into reverse. so I initially tried replacing the clutch hydraulics. Got a pre-bled master/slave assembly from Oreilly's and installed it. For a couple days, it was better, and then it went back to how it was before. tried replacing the transmission fluid with Amsoil MTF, including adding an extra quart. Seemed better for about a day, then went back to doing what it was doing before. last weekend, I replaced the clutch and flywheel with new ones from Valair. for the last week, it's been driving great. shifting was significantly improved. After a couple days, I was confident I had found the problem. I went out of town for two days for work, came back today, got in my truck to drive home, and it's shifting rough again. grinding in 3rd unless I double clutch, and starting to want to grind in all the other gears again as well. again can't put it in reverse without first putting it in second. Is it possible I bought a pre bled clutch hydraulics assembly that has air in it? should I try bleeding it before I order a transmission rebuild kit? at this point all I can figure is that the syncros are going out, but it doesn't make any sense to me that every time I've attempted to fix it, it's better for a day or two and then goes back to sucking. really fed up with this truck. on the verge of selling it for a loss so I dont have to mess with it anymore. 20+ trucks and 11 motorcycles, all except one have been 20 years old or older, have had more problems with this truck than the rest of them combined.

Vehicle Nickname: truck Date Added To The Garage: 2022-07-29 Garage Link: truck