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I've just been able to get back to my truck upgrades. It's been a busy year so far. I was checking my power steering fluid level and noticed that one of my ground wires did not get hooked back up. This is the shorter small ground wire on the drivers side battery. The longer one goes to the frame. Does anyone know where this shorter cable is supposed to be bolted down?

Trying to fix my own mistake. Quick recap. End of last year, I put the original sensor in the test port with the expected inadequate results. I moved it to the pan and over tightened it, pop.... , new sensor time. I picked up a generic sensor at napa. No reading at all on the Quad. Spent the money and got a new sensor for the quad, but couldn't finish working on my truck. I had some training that took my time and attention away. I'm back, first silly question. will thread sealant on a one wire trans temp sensor like for the Quad throw off the readings? Should I clean the threads on the pan and leave the sealant off for a good ground for the sensor? Or is all that not necessary and go ahead and use the thread sealant on the sensor.

I'm the original owner. This is the original VP44. Did dodge not use true Bosch certified pumps? Today was another one of those days. I moved my trans sending unit from the test port over to the pan. I knew I should have just done this to begin with. Installed the sending unit, filled the trans up. As I was hooking up the wire, with what didn't seem like that much pressure, I felt it pop. Dang it. too tight. The threaded area for the wire spins in the sending unit housing. Are these a generic item that I can just grab at the parts store? That is, as long as the treads match. A full pan full of fluid wasted. Perhaps if I'm fast enough, I won't lose it all. Gasoila FasSeal thread sealant is supposed to works on wet, contaminated threads. I guess I'll find out. Since installing quad, I see the FASS 95's fuel pressure is low. It bounced as low as 7 and as high as 10 holding mostly at 9. I ordered a new 17lb spring and ball from vulcan thinking this would fix it. I also put a fresh filter and water separator on. While it did increase it, it's only holding a steady 11lbs now. Are fuel sending units usually accurate? I got it from DAP with the Quad. I think there is an o-ring rebuild kit from FASS. I guess I'll be calling them monday morning. Any idea on what else I might look for to solve this? After I re-redo my trans sending unit, finish replacing my fuel lines and fix my leaky fuel sending unit. Head studs and stealth plate are all thats left. On that note, do all valve covers need to be ground down in the rear with head studs? Then on to the front end. Ball joints, bearings, u-joints, tie rods, track bar, sway bar bushings and a steering box brace. I'll finally get my 3rd gen rotor backing plates on too. The old girl should be ready for Yellowstone.

I'm almost positive it's a T25. But now that you say that it has me wondering. I'll double check when I get the replacements and take everything apart again.

I went ahead and followed the direction and used the test port. I figured the pan might be the right choice, by I didn't have any hydraulic fluid to refill my trans. The trans builder says that what he always uses in the trans he builds. I want to verify if there is some special fluid, or just whatever I can get at napa. Thanks for verifying.

I put my injectors in today. Have I mentioned how much I've come to like my new topside creeper? Best investment ever. While everything was apart, I decided to get some better pictures of the cover bolts. I was starting to wonder if my age was catching up with me and I made a mistake. They are definitely reg T25 torx bolts. I was tempted to give it another try and do the cover too. I restrained myself and I'll just wait for the new bolts first. Side note, new injectors, even without the wire tapped are nice

Oregon Injection hooked me up with some new bolts. It's just going to be a week or so because they're coming from Bosch. Bosch won't ship directly to me. So as soon as they get to Oregon, they'll send them down to me. I ordered six just to have an extra. Because, well, if I have an extra I won't need it. If I don't, I will. hdpwipmonkey, I'll gladly send you one of my old ones if I can get the rest out in good shape. I'm not touching this again until I have the new bolts in hand so it may be a few weeks.

[quote]Take a good one to Menard. In the bolt section, they have thread checkers. Once you know the diameter and thread pitch, they might have one. If not, you will know the specs and can check Napa or online. Diameter, thread pitch and length are important. Head configuration isn't. Hex, Allen or torx will work.[quote/] [quote]If you have a dremel with a cutoff wheel, you can make a regular screwdriver slot in the head of the PSG stripped bolt to remove it.[quote/] I may end up doing just that. However, I prefer to have the part in hand before I take it apart. I work in my garage. But my truck wont fit in my garage and allow me to close the door. It's just too long. It has to sit outside every night so I can close up. I'm trying to get new bolts before I tackle this again. I going to call Oregon Fuel Injection today and see if they have and can send me what I need. I have a dremel and that will probably be my next step. That is, after I verify I have the correct bit/tool to remove the other bolts. The torx I used seemed right, but my eyes are failing so... But I'd like replacements in hand before I start at it again.

They sent me the 5 star bit, but it was not the right one. My bolts are six star like regular torx. I used a 1/4" drive torx socket. It fit in there tight before I started. It's buggered up now though. So, I've got to get it out and find a new one to put back in. Any ideas where I might find a new one?

Buttoning everything up went well. I decided to put on the stealth plate on the pump. I was quickly reminded that it's always something. The first bolt I tried to take out stripped out on me with very little pressure. Son of a *****. Any ideas on getting this out? I've never had much luck with easy outs. Once I get it out, I'll need to replace it. Where would I even find such a bolt. I can't imagine ace would have such things. Put everything back together and went for a quick test drive. I had the fast blinker indicator reminding me I forgot to plug in my tail light from doing the sending unit. I backed my truck half way into the garage and tried to shut it down. No go. The truck wouldn't shut off. No doubt from me dinking with the settings in the iquad app. I sorted that out, plugged the tail light back in and parked my truck. There was a nice big spot on my driveway from the truck idling. A fuel leak near the sending unit. I suspect when I cracked the valve open for my fuel pressure reading, I may have opened it too much. Could I have blown out my sending unit? Or, maybe I just didn't get everything tightened up well enough. Today wasn't my day. It's always something.

I got the stock HX35 and new one piece blade runner manifold installed. Everything seems to be working properly. I left the silencer ring in for now. Boy what a different sound inside the cab. Not more quiet, just different. I put on an adjustable boost elbow, closed for now. Will the quad and 100 hp injectors get me to the point where I'll need the waste gate to open? Perhaps I'll need to just wait and see. I have no clue on what kind of boost to expect.

I'm almost done installing my adrenaline. Where is the best place to install the transmission temp. sensor. The place listed in the adrenaline install instruction, or in the pan? When my trans was done, they included a deep pan with a place for a sensor. The instructions show a different place on the pass side of the trans. My first thought says the place on the pass side would keep the wiring in a better spot. But I've alway thought the place in the pan is where most people put them. Any recommendations? This and the wire tap are all that left. Then I get to put the interior back together. Finding a "clean" place to mount the head unit on the inside was more work than I thought it would be. That, and running the extra length wiring harness. I'm glad thats done. I'll do the stealth cover and tap when I do the injectors. Is there a good reference for setting up and learning the app on an ipad? I haven't found much info on it. I got it to connect and it seems to be working. It was getting late and I didn't have time to mess with it. I had to leave it for now. I'd like to try out a couple of the tunes here. I'll need to figure this stuff out in the next week or so. Kind regards

Thanks again for all the help. I ordered one this morning. I found this thread on CF with a diagram and part numbers. 55056421AA - Engine 52105317AB - Transfer Case 52105299AB - Front Differential I'll probably get the two other line assemblies as well. Like you said, after 22 years they're all ready to be replaced. That said, one thing at a time for now.

Round two... I installed the sending unit for the fuel pressure gauge. I decided on just keeping the fuel filter canister included in the run. I didn't want to mount it onto the VP. I think I'm going to need an elbow for it. It's sure is close to the motor mount. I don't think I'll get the plug on the end. Either that, or eliminate the banjo bolts and go with an inline setup setup. The elbow would be the easiest option. Onto my next issue . While fiddling with the sending unit, I notice I broke what I believe is a vacuum line. I have no idea what it's for. It seems much more flexible and spongy than a normal vacuum line. Perhaps because of age. Normally, lines like this get hard and brittle, not soft and spongy. Also, the small line next to it does seem like it's in much better shape. What kind of lines are these?

Push pin rivets? I would have never figured that one out. Turns out the big river had both the rivets and spare tire hoist. Thanks for the quick responses.

I finally got to the first stage of my truck. I finished installing my Fleece Sureflo sending unit. I've run into a couple of issues. First, the tabs holding the rear plastic inner fender did not fare well during their removal. I don't know the correct names for these or where to find them. Does anyone have any ideas, or better yet, point me in the right direction? Second, after lowering my spare tire, I noticed the cable winch thingy is breaking apart. Plastic was falling out everywhere as I was lowering it. Has anyone else dealt with replacements?

I would like an exhaust brake. But that will have to wait until I get everything I've got installed. I'm doing more than I'd like to at basically the same time. I want to insure everything is working seamlessly together before I add something else to my equation.

I was able to order a new HX35 today. I will be keeping my old injectors and turbo just in case. You never can tell what CA will do next. Thanks for all the help.

I talked to them today. They said no problem returning turbo they sent me. They don't have a stock HX35 on their shelves but are trying to find me one.

I'll give them a call in a few hours. I may switch it out if it's an option with them.

Well, I have the studs now, so they'll go in. Without pulling the head, I'll use the one hole at a time method like I originally planned on. If for no other reason than peace of mind. I didn't see a reason to go further, but I'd thought I'd check. All of these upgrades are in preparation for longer national park trips. Perhaps only a dream now, but in the next year or two, I plan on making it a reality. Yellowstone and south has been on my radar for a while. So if the studs give me peace of mind, they're worth it.

I've seen it stated that the "Adrenaline was made for the 150hp 7x.010 injectors" If this 62/64/12 turbo is a little on the large size for this setup, would these larger injectors help it be a better, more compatible and clean running upgrade? Or should I pursue finding unmodified HX35? I hate that I might not have thought this purchase through. I know the Quad can help clean it up. I rather make changes now, rather than put it together and be disappointed. My truck is mostly just used for towing and I'm OK with not racing from stop light to stop light. But I don't want a smokey slug driving around town either. I love what the smarty offered as far as drive-ability in town. Level 3 or 5 most of the time. I'd like to be at least the same as that. Will I be close to what I'm looking for without making changes? I assume it will say Holset on the side. I made it clear that's what I wanted. I won't see it until next weekend. I'll have to do my test next summer. I absolutely don't want to go too far and create problems. But I do want to go as far as I can.

You know, you are 100% right. I've been a commercial driver for the most of my working life. I know what a broken clamp/hose feels and sounds like. It wouldn't be intermittent. But I just assumed this was the turbo and never really took anything apart to verify. I just jumped on the opportunity to upgrade. I can't pick up my major parts until this coming weekend. Plus, I have a few parts still arriving this week. I think I need to spend some time verifying what exactly is going on. Thanks for reminding me of that. On a side note. My mechanic friend is trying to convince me into pulling the head and doing a head gasket and valve springs while I'm doing this. It's tempting to just spend the money and hand over part of the work. But I'm just too cheap. Plus being retired, I have more time than money. Probably sense too. Especially if I end up with a problem later. What say ye with more knowledge than me? Run it doing one stud at a time, or do it all while I'm doing this? I'm already way over budget. I imagine paying him to do the head gasket and valve springs is gonna be at least another $k if not more.

I might have made a mistake in my build purchase. First and foremost, I've got to deal with CA smog checks. It was mentioned to me that techs were now looking for Holset being listed on turbos. I know this is dependent on individual techs and most would not even bother. I'm pretty sure the place I go, this wouldn't be an issue. But you never can tell when this would change. I really gave a hard look at this "Super 9" a local company builds . I'm second guessing my decision not to go with this. I don't really care about HP numbers. I care about towing a 10k lb travel trailer through mountain passes. I have a mildly built auto, 3.55's running 265/70/17 Michelin's. I'll likely never use tunes that max out performance. Well, not more than just to see what it could do. This is being built as a work horse, not a quarter horse. My question is which Holset turbo would serve me best for towing and passing the CA throttle snap test? Stuff I've already purchased from DAP HX35 62/64/12 100 Hp Injectors Quadzilla Adrenaline 1 piece Exhaust Manifold Head Studs a bunch of supporting accessories. I don't know if DAP will take back the HX35. I can try and sell it if they won't. I'm most concerned with building my truck so everything works cleanly and seamlessly together. Kind regards Dennis

Sheez, I've been looking at our interactions and now I'm wondering if I misunderstood him. I received a message from a user on CP that mentioned that some smog techs were now being instructed to look for "Holset" on the side of the turbo. So I used needing a Holset turbo as one of my guide lines. Thats probably why the 57GXE wasn't mentioned. Dang it. Perhaps I should make this my first question in the 24v section. Thanks for your insight.