yohon

O Riley surprised the heck out of me by having one on hand for 5$ thank you for the help

Got one more problem. One valve spring has rust at the base and its rather bad. Does anyone sell just 1 valve spring? The rest are all stock and apear new. Just one looks like it got wet. Should I rob one from the old engine?

That is the first ray of sunshine I have heard. Is love to tighten this transmission up but for sure dont want to grenade the transmission. I'll call power driven/dap and see what I can do

Did you get by without a billet input shaft? I've seen alot of fokes say you don't need them unless you do boosted launches or are pushing big power.

Had the thought today of while the engine and transmission apart should I upgrade my single disc torque converter? Transmission has had pan off upgrades done and it was rebuilt a few years ago when it was rebuilt we were in a tight spot and all I could afford was a basic single disc billet. I dont beat on the truck hardly ever tow but the transmission has always felt like mud till the OD locked up. I would think a lower rpm stall would also be good but no clue how low is good. Any suggestions on brands? stall speed? Should I just run the billet single?

The Napa in town just shut down a year ago. The orileys is pretty solid guys but their parts are just terrible this was actually the in house brand and it only lasted 2 years under warranty but that dont help when your on the side of the road lol.

Sad to think a 68$ water pump is what killed this mighty cummins.

That head curl makes sense I took my broken head stud into work and had one of the material engineers look at it and what he had to say was that it was brittle fracture. His suspicion was that it was over hardened he also pointed out that it broke on the first thread on the bottom so that might have been a stress riser for it. That part of the head is the hottest section right next to the turbo is. I have my turbo and exaust header heavily insulated with rockwoll. My water pump went out last week and the truck got to 240° ( immediately turned the heater on and slowed down and it quickly droped back to 195. I think this event is when it broke. As much as I hate to say it I dont think im going to buy exotic head studs again I think the temper was bad coupled with some extraneous circumstances on my end but I still dont think it should have failed. Especially since the highest boost my truck has seen for the last 3 weeks was 12psi.

I do think I will convert 1 of my boost gages to monitor drive pressure. By doing the guides and seals are you referring to upgrading the valves and seals or just redoing them back to oem spec?

It sounds like 500 is going to be a good goal for me as well. I hate to take this long block apart so I think I'll run it how it is. But im still pending a quote from the machine shop to install o rings port the head and lap the valves. But I ordered a towing cam from Hamilton a new exaust manifold and a set of headstuds. I will gasket match the exhaust manifold (and wrap it) and the exhaust head. I think I'll still run the stock valve train (no plan in exceedingthe stock 3200 rpm) anything else I should upgrade or change while the engine is out?

Found out today I have a 2 piece head bolt. So truck is parked for now and i found a new long block for 3k. Ideally if im going to swap the motor I want to build it prior to. All supporting mods aside whats the best set up for a vp44 truck? I know we tap out around 700 hp which suits me fine. I think I would like to do a cam and cnc ported head. I dont plan on exceeding 3500 rpm so do I need valve springs? Fire ring or o ring ( compunds are probably in the future) what else am I missing should I step up to 14mm head studs?

OK sorry its so late of a reply but we figured it out the pre filters on these trucks has a check valve in it ( for some reason) this particular mopar filter had the check valve too far down in the filter "core" ( when the filter is properly installed a push rod touches the filter body and holds open the check valve) this caused the truck to starve for fuel ( not to mention the air leak at the front filter) i have no clue how this guy made it to work but it explains why we couldn't get a prime afterwards! Thank yall for your help

Hmm it might just be a working pump then but weak and is not able to push fuel all the way to the front fuel filter. Any clue what a healthy pressure or flow rate should be on a stock lift pump?

Agree should have been one of the first upgrades to this guy's truck. I'm just trying to get him out of the parking lot for now. Does anyone have a diagram of a common rail fuel system? I cant figure out why I have fuel at the pre filter but nothing at the filter in the engine bay. Thinking their might be a check valve or a regulator thats stuck.

That was my initial thought. Trucks on side of the road so didn't have a tester but cycled the key with the pre filter lines removed and verified in tank pump was pumping. Do these trucks have 2 lift pumps?