yohon

Will do im going to attempt to relearn the actuator once I get to work on the truck again ( father took it down to Houston) will keep yall posted.

I have a off brand version from amazon that should replace the doorman part number ( could be the problem) I'll call doorman up and see about the calibration procedure

Correct the 3 pin vs 4 pin "male side" with the pins on the green board. The wiring harness or "female side" has a blank block that will fit up to 6 wires ( only uses 3) and it is 100% the actuator replaced the adapter and even went as far as to swap the 3 pin bad motor with the working motor from the 4 pin however the green board itself is actually bad ( sat full of coolant from bad heater core)

I have a bad blend door actuator on my father's truck (2002 3500 stock) ordered a replacement and all I can find is 4 pin units when plugged it it only rotates 1 way and makes a full 360 turn ( when installed it goes hard agains the blend door in the cool position. no matter the temperature setting. The old unit was a 3 pin but every part numbers listed is for a 4 pin. Am I missing something?

Here is the link to one of the big tuning post on this forum dont let it overwhelm you. https://mopar1973man.com/forums/topic/12002-quadzilla-v2-custom-tunes/ i wouldn't get too craxy with Timing until you get a set of headstuds copy your current tune in the format provided on page 1 and we will get you tuned up !

Any modifications done to the truck? I dont think my quadzilla came with any tunes but its fairly easy to turn.

Yup cummins just called for conventional 15w 40 too nothing special. And I can get alot of conventional 15w 40 for the price of x1 round of break in oil. Cummins i trust to say what their engine needs and dont need mopar/dodge I'll take with a grain of salt

So I finally have my new engine installed ( bone stock rotating assembly except I did put a tow cam in it) and im looking at engine break in procedures they all recommend towing decent weight no idle time ect all makes sense but I have 2 questions 1 ) should I run higher timing with the quadzilla to try and raise cylinder pressure for better ring seal? 2) highly contrivosal but does anyone recommend a break in oil if so what type? Ill be switching to Synthetic after the first 1000 miles and changing oil after the first 400-500 miles ( block has been sitting for years so lots of dirt and such probably in it)

I wasn't sure if it needed to be circulating at all times so I put a 3 way valve on mine to "bypass" the heater core didn't want to take a chance after I broke the last head stud.

The rebuild kit i got had one for it https://ebay.us/m/U9ICf1 I will say its a easy rebuild but not much use all your really doing is re sealing the system I never could find replacement punp "vanes"

Any update on this? I did the same thing to mine along with a new evaporator and was disappointed with the results. Im about to add cut off valves to the heater core and inslate the ac lines from the orfice to the cab and see if that helps.

Thats a good point. I just rebuilt my power steering pump and was shocked how much was on the magnet especially since the only worn part i found was the aluminum sleeve the whole pump shaft rides on my only thought was it must be from the gear box. Im about to find and read your original article and add a filter to mine along with a cooler.

That's cool to see. Have you checked the magnet in the pump?

Motor is just about ready to go in. Can anyone get me a measurment from the bottom of the closed hood to the top if the valve cover? Im looking at a 4 in thick water to air intercooler I'll install if the water methanol don't work. But I never got that measurement before I pulled the motor.

Thats not bad at all thank you for checking my water methanol pump draws about 15 and im looking at adding a small fan for the tran cooler and ac condenser seat heater and cooler any possibly upgrading the factory raido so electrical power is high on my worry list. Thankfully im in texas and have my grid heaters disconnected.