yohon

Here is the link to one of the big tuning post on this forum dont let it overwhelm you. https://mopar1973man.com/forums/topic/12002-quadzilla-v2-custom-tunes/ i wouldn't get too craxy with Timing until you get a set of headstuds copy your current tune in the format provided on page 1 and we will get you tuned up !

Any modifications done to the truck? I dont think my quadzilla came with any tunes but its fairly easy to turn.

Yup cummins just called for conventional 15w 40 too nothing special. And I can get alot of conventional 15w 40 for the price of x1 round of break in oil. Cummins i trust to say what their engine needs and dont need mopar/dodge I'll take with a grain of salt

So I finally have my new engine installed ( bone stock rotating assembly except I did put a tow cam in it) and im looking at engine break in procedures they all recommend towing decent weight no idle time ect all makes sense but I have 2 questions 1 ) should I run higher timing with the quadzilla to try and raise cylinder pressure for better ring seal? 2) highly contrivosal but does anyone recommend a break in oil if so what type? Ill be switching to Synthetic after the first 1000 miles and changing oil after the first 400-500 miles ( block has been sitting for years so lots of dirt and such probably in it)

I wasn't sure if it needed to be circulating at all times so I put a 3 way valve on mine to "bypass" the heater core didn't want to take a chance after I broke the last head stud.

The rebuild kit i got had one for it https://ebay.us/m/U9ICf1 I will say its a easy rebuild but not much use all your really doing is re sealing the system I never could find replacement punp "vanes"

Any update on this? I did the same thing to mine along with a new evaporator and was disappointed with the results. Im about to add cut off valves to the heater core and inslate the ac lines from the orfice to the cab and see if that helps.

Thats a good point. I just rebuilt my power steering pump and was shocked how much was on the magnet especially since the only worn part i found was the aluminum sleeve the whole pump shaft rides on my only thought was it must be from the gear box. Im about to find and read your original article and add a filter to mine along with a cooler.

That's cool to see. Have you checked the magnet in the pump?

Motor is just about ready to go in. Can anyone get me a measurment from the bottom of the closed hood to the top if the valve cover? Im looking at a 4 in thick water to air intercooler I'll install if the water methanol don't work. But I never got that measurement before I pulled the motor.

Thats not bad at all thank you for checking my water methanol pump draws about 15 and im looking at adding a small fan for the tran cooler and ac condenser seat heater and cooler any possibly upgrading the factory raido so electrical power is high on my worry list. Thankfully im in texas and have my grid heaters disconnected.

Awesome is the power steering pump rebuild pretty self explanatory?

I'll have to look into it for sure. Any idea the electrical load of the remote vacuum pump?

Finally got the vacuum pump and power steering pump out and need some advice. Should I replace these units? They are both OEM and have almost 300k with no obvious leaks on them vacuum pump i can rebuild and found seals for it. The power steering pump makes me nervous oil in it looks like crude oil. I hate to get a reman and it be worse then I one I have. I did find a link talking about rebuilding it. But the link didn't work I also found a article on this site about hot roding the pump ( drilling out the orfice slightly) and I'll for sure do that. Any chance anyone has a working link on how to rebuild these? Or know of a reliable aftermarket pump.

Build is progressing slowly then id like but trying to do it right the first time. Slow transferring all the parts to the new long block but got the turbo drilled tapped for water methanol and gasket matched the manifold and the turbo.