dlg

How can I purchase one of these.

When going up a steep hill at interstate speed where I don't have enough power to maintain interstate speed. I will give you an example that happens constantly. Cruising along at 75mph in 4th gear locked, cruise control engaged. Truck does not have enough power to maintain speed at this gear ratio. 75mph for me is right at 2000rpm so slightly under the peak power band. The truck slows down continuously until around 40mph where I am well under the power band of the engine and am losing speed rapidly, then the transmission skips 4th unlocked to go all the way to 3rd. Now i'm at 2500, at the very top of the power band. Then you gain speed until about 55mph and it skips 4th unlocked to go to 4th locked and I again lose speed. 4th locked makes the engine run at too low of an RPM and 3rd is too high. Yes I could hit the OD off button and maintain 55mph but I would be doing that at over 3000rpm and at a terrible fuel economy. If the transmission were to stay in 4th unlocked I am 100% confident I would be able to maintain at least 55mph if not 60 or 65 up the same hill at a reasonable rpm. Yes I understand a torque converter makes heat, but when it skips all the way down to 3rd isn't it making the same amount of heat? Am I not making heat in 1st or 2nd? I just took my 16 ft trailer loaded up a 45 degree hill to a friends house this weekend. It's a very long and very steep residential hill and I did the entire thing in 1st gear, presumably slipping and making heat the entire time. So why is that okay but doing it in 4th for a hill is not okay? It seems to me that the lockup should be more like a pseudo 5th gear and all "5" gears should be usable at some point. If 4th unlocked is "never to be used", why does it even exist? If the only time the transmission should ever be in 4th is if it's locked, why not skip 4th unlocked. When I accelerate from 0 to 70 why does it go 1, 2, 3, 4 unlocked, 4 locked. Just go straight from 3 to 4 locked if that's the only acceptable transmission state. That would be like on my 5 speed manual transmission car if the owners manual said "when accelerating you can use 4th for a few seconds but never drive in 4th, only drive in 3rd or 5th." The whole thing doesn't make any logical sense to me. The batteries are also brand new in the last year. When I got the truck it did it, when I replaced the batteries because they were weak it still did it, then when I replaced the alternator because it was also weak it still did it. Now I have no cranking problems even in very low temps and I charge at 14.5 volts at 1500rpm so the batteries and alternator are not weak. As I said in the last post I the ground wire mod article does not say where to measure AC voltage, it just says to measure it. I would be happy to do it, I just need to know where. Battery to battery, battery + to engine block, battery - to engine block, alternator charge output to battery + or battery -, alternator to engine block? There are a lot of ways to measure for errant voltages.

That seems like a bad design. There are many times when being in 4th with no lockup would be hugely beneficial. I don't know which gears. It happens randomly and when I notice it I have no way to know which gear I was in. If I had to guess at the speed I would say between 25 and 35 but again I haven't really been documenting it. I'll have to pay more attention. The only thing I can say for sure is it definitely shouldn't be doing it. I will be driving at a constant speed on level ground and it will downshift for a second or two, then upshift. No change in throttle, no change in load. I don't know what you mean by bench test the alternator but no I did not. It's brand new and this was an issue with the old alternator. Yes I did the mod, no I did not test for noise. The guide you linked does not describe where to test for ac noise, it just says to do it.

I did this mod this weekend and it didn't seem to change anything. Transmission still goes in to lockup almost immediately after going in to 4th, pressing the O/D off button kicks me all the way down to 3rd instead of just taking off the lockup, and sometimes while driving at constant lower speeds the transmission shifts randomly and then back.

I'm having trouble following some of the instructions and also mine is slightly different so I want to make sure i'm understanding this correctly. Below is a link to a photo gallery. My black wire with the grey plastic clip from the tutorial photos runs from the drivers side of the engine near the injection pump, through a separate split loom over to the passenger side battery battery, T's off to the battery, and is then screwed to the body. So I need to cut this back near the pump and attach it to the gear case, then run a short jumper from this same bolt on the gear case to the drivers side battery. Then I need to dig in the loom and find the alternator charging wire and remove that from the driver side battery and connect it to the passenger side battery? https://photos.app.goo.gl/fsGHQ9L525G7d3DR9

I do have the oil temp probe hooked up

I will do that, thanks I based that on their website. PL02 is listed as a mileage setting. I guess I misunderstood what this means I also believe this to be accurate based on what I have read. I have tried posting on local forums for anyone with a Smarty wanting to make a quick couple of bucks but have not had any success. You don't think I can enable it with an Autel scan tool? I do not, I will probably add this. Quadzilla shows adding one via 2 different size tee fittings or a banjo bolt but doesn't offer any explanation as to when to use which option. What is the best way to add this.

I'm aware what RPM I need to run at, running at speed is not the issue now that the tuner is installed. Both of your photos are at speed. As I said in the first post my issue is getting to speed. It is an auto trans and it switches to OD at 45 mph or 50 mph and 1500 rpm so from 45 mph to 75 (Where i'm at 2200rpm) I still have no power because the tuner doesn't kick in until 2000 rpm. From 2000 rpm on the tuner makes a huge difference. From 1500 rpm to 2000 rpm the truck still struggles and the tuner seems to make no difference I need more power from 1500 rpm to 2000. The problem is if it's windy I can't even get to 2000 rpm (70mph). I'm fairly sure I said this in the first post but stock everything. Stock auto trans, stock tires (245/75R16), stock injectors, stock turbo. 3.54 rear end gears, I have no idea what the final drive is or how to figure it out.

Let me start by saying I know there is a lot of existing information on the forums but I have never tuned any gas or diesel vehicle before, and this is my first diesel vehicle so i'm just not comfortable figuring it out on my own. If you are annoyed by folks who ask already answered questions I would just ask that you move on to a different post. I have one generic question and then a few tuning related questions. First, the general question. What is the best way to go about finding a shop, or a person near me who has the ability to enable the factory high idle and 3 cylinder high idle in my ECM. I am located in Omaha so bonus points if you already know somebody or some place. I do have access to an Autel scan tool that I usually use for reading codes, is it possible I can do it myself? The Autel does a lot of things that I have never messed with so I don't know its capabilities. On to the tuning questions. I would rather pay someone experienced to help me with this, rather than try to figure it out myself and mess something up. If you are interested in helping me, please let me know. I have an (as far as i'm aware) stock 1999 Ram 2500 and I have installed a Quadzilla. I have highway gears and so towing at speeds over 60 can be tough. I don't want to change the gears out because I don't tow that often but I drive on the interstate a lot so as far as pros/cons go the highway gears are better for me. I also don't tow anything that heavy, mostly an enclosed trailer with a lot of drag and not much weight. From what I can tell after installing the tuner the real additional power doesn't kick in until after 2000 rpm which from what I can tell is based on the timing settings in the tune. Unfortunately my overdrive kicks in around 45-50 mph and I don't hit 2000 rpm until about 70 so it's still tough to get from 45 to 70 even in PL10. Once I'm at or over 70 everything is great. So is there anything I can change to safely get some of that additional power between 1500 and 2000 rpm? Second question. The Quadzilla has a 'mileage' setting. I have not had it installed long enough to know how effective that is, but is there anything I can change on this power level to make it more effective without causing issues? This would only be used when i'm running empty on the highway. If I was towing or hauling I would use the stock setting or one of the increased power levels. Third question. Should I add the optional fuel pressure sensor? I do not intend to do any additional mods to the engine. I don't really want anything crazy here, I don't want to race this thing, I don't want to do a bunch of crazy mods, and honestly from what I can tell I don't even really need PL10. Just going to 5 or 6 makes the truck much more drivable when towing. All I want to do is make the truck as driveable as possible without doing anything that could damage the engine. Thank you for your time.