daav544

No shipping, guys local to me, and I figured for 50 bucks it's new in the box remanufactured Bosch, if it saves my *** on the road one day it's paid for itself

this is what the back of the alternator looks like so I don't see why it wouldn't work it has the stud for the battery wire and the plug that looks the same as mine This is the one on my truck shown on orileys and its specs, its a nippodenso And this one is the one on market place the guy is selling for wicked cheap new in the box, from the looks of it i think its just the fact they went from nippodenso to bosch for the 01-02 years. I heard the Bosch ones are the ones everyone wants cus there quality

Question regarding types of alternators, so i found an alternator on marketplace brand new in the box for 50 bucks the part number is R110290B and mine is R111017B. The R110290B on orileys website says it fits 2001-2002 24v cummins. What's the difference between and 01-02 alternator and the previous years alternators? My trucks a 99 i was hoping to be able to buy this one I found just to keep as a back up on long trips

Soo im reviving this post because this issue came back. The engine tone changes while driving it's the timing jumping back and forth it went away when I installed the adrenaline after I switched from the edge ez timing will jump from 16 to 21 and back while cruising at 2000 rpm, only thing I did yesterday was change battery terminal ends here are pictures of the tow tune I've been driving on I thought it may have something to do with the grid heater since at the same time i replaced my battery cable ends i disconnected the main lead for the grid heater, i have since re connected it though. Just completely stumped as to why it would be doing this it's almost as if it's going from the adrenaline tune back to stock and back to the adrenaline tune. Before when I would cruise at 2000 rpm it would always stay right around 16-17 degrees of timing on that tune. I was reaching around the can bus area yesterday as well trying to get the grid heater relay block or whatever that is bolted back to the fender well as it was just hanging there from the previous owner so I didn't know if I messed with the can bus by accident but it was plugged in and seemed fine. Also when i disconnect the main plug from the adrenaline and plug it back in I can hear a little click noise, I assume this is normal and it's just doing its thing

Also is there a fuse or anything I could disconnect or the time being that would disable the grid heater complete until I get around to wiring a switch like that? Kinda disappointed after hearing all this and what the g is heaters use for power that i didn't opt for a more powerful alternator, 135a just does not seem like it's enough for these things 200a minimum in my eyes seems like what they should have done from the factory. I think even my 2004 v6 Silverado had a more powerful alternator and it was the base model lol

How did you install this switch and what kind of switch is it i would like to do something like this to help keep this thing alive And what actually is the operating sequence of the grid heater? When do they come on and off

My truck is now on its 3rd alternator since getting the truck last September. Previous owner a friend of mine put one in and it died on me about 3 months in and was under warranty. Second one lasted until yesterday morning was about 50-60 degrees out started the truck the check gauges light stayed on for 20 seconds or so then came up to 14v drove 20 seconds up the street and it dropped back down so I pulled over and the alternator was smoking hot and litterally smoking. Never came back up to 14v still spins freely. Ended up getting another on under warranty at orileys. I think they are the ultima brand i can find out though. What gives though? Truck was fine yesterday and all of a sudden the alternator shits it self on start up?? I read a comment mopar man made about cold weather starting and the alternator not liking it due to low rpm and the grid heaters sucking the life out of it. What's the best thing to do to keep this thing alive? Will plugging it in over night help? I usually do all winter but thinking I should start sooner. I also know a lot of guys like the denso alternators with the external regulator mod. I also did the 7.5amp fuse mod as precaution for all these alternator failures

Thats good to hear man hope it stays that way. Deffinetly guna be a new chapter of life, my mum has blood cancer and has had to go through alot as well she always tells me you just gota take one day at a time and enjoy the little things in life, its to short as is even without any problems. Oh and i feel stupid, it was the relay lol, i guess it makes sense that only the running lights would be on a relay circuit while tail lights, power brakes, aux power would have juice all the time. Now my next issue to tackle is the cruise controle it intermittently works, just worked the other day and now it doesnt. Some days when i cycle the key to the on position before starting the truck the cruise light will be on the dash and other days it wont be. Its a vacuum cruise truck btw. Oh and the other day when it did work the light didnt come on the dash and say cruise while it was on

No i havnt been able toco all the tests yet but i feel as though i can rule out a couple things like the fuse that is good, the headlight switch works and ive traced the wire back to under the wheel well so the break if there is one would be between there and the PDC. Also wheres @Mopar1973Man been/ hows he been doing havnt heard anything from him on here in a while

So ive tested the black and orange wire all the way to under the cab by the driver side wheel well so if there was a break it would be between there and the PDC. The headlight switch should work if the headlights work(which they do) right? Ive checked all the fuses. Where is ground g102 located?

Update on the wheel bearing, thought it was the pinion since it went away after fixing that but it ended up being the tires, the rims i just put on that i die grinded the centers out i had to take off cus under hard braking it would shudder real good. It was worth a shot oh well ill get them swapped to these rims. But anyway what do you think could be the reason why these old tires would make noise like this never seemed to before, possibly could be under filled on one of them and i also know that one was mounted backwards its a directional tire and they ****** up and mounted it wrong. Never noticed the noise when they were installed a while back just seems odd it would only do it while turning left maybe ill try swapping them left to right?

Found the issue, so over the weekend i replaced my pinion bearings their was a decent amount of play like the bearings were too far apart from each other, i was going to take one shim out from under the outer pinion bearing but ended up being to tight so i put the same orientation of shims it had originally and with the new bearings the play was gone. Surprisingly the old bearings and races looked mint even after a ton of miles on them the way they were. Any ways i did the bearings as well as put on a whole set of new stock dually rims with good tires on it (old tires were spanked). So either it was the old set of rims and tires or the pinion bearing, im leading towards pinion bearing. Funny about the rims though i bought them a while ago with a good set of tires on them their 8x6.5 pattern but the center hole was 4.5in and not 4 3/4 in. So what did i do to get them on? I took a good rim that fits then took the new rims one by one and bolted them to that good rim like how the rears are mounted and then took a die grinder and honed out the hole to match the good rim exactly. Worked perfectly

Now how would i go about testing that pin with the relay disconnected? Would i just put my test light across the 2 pins that are the switching terminals #30 & 87?

So ill take the trailer relay out then stick my test light on that pin while the alligator clamp is clamped to a ground? Is their a diagram somewhere or online that will show which pin is what? And if i dont have power there what should i look at? If i do have power then its probably a broken wire between the PDC and where i checked under the truck by the wheel well?

I have a 1999 dodge ram 3500 and i have no trailer running lights, ive verified with other vehicals its not my trailer and even used a clamp and spike style test light. Nothing at the pin for running lights when i have my trucka light switch on. I even traces the loom back all the way to under the drivers door right at the ffront wheel well the wire that feeds my trailer plug is a orange striped black wire. I found the wire up by the wheel well and tested again with the test light and still nothing. Was hoping there would be power then id just run a new wire from there back. Anyways after the wire loom makes it to the engine bay it teea off to the fues panel, into the cab, and abs module. I havnt peeled the loom to see where it goes yet . Any idea where to start or what it could be?

Thats a good idea about swapping wheels, and i only need to do like 30 to hear it pretty good and i dont belive anything is rubbing it sounds like your typical wheel bearing ive also checked the caliper guards and theres ample space between them and the rotor. My fender wells just recently got new plastic clips as they didnt have all of them and once i was pulling into a parking spot and heard it rub the liner so i had fixed that already. This weekend im guna pull the wheels and calipers off again and spin just the rotor to see how they sound. When i replaced the driver side after doing the passenger which i thought was the issue the driver side made a bit of a dry bearing noise while spinning the rotor. And boy it was dry and brown from water ingress through the seal. After seeing that i was happy as a pig in **** cus i thought after the new bearing it was guna be fixed but nope lol. It seemed to get a little quieter but the noise is still there now. Same as before slight while driving straight, loud while turning left and basically gone while turning right.

Update on wheel bearings. I replaced all of the front wheel bearings, inner driver one had seen some water and was a little rusty as well as the race had a divet/ marr from who knows what maybe bad install from previous owner. Anyways the noise seemed to lessen a little but its still there and only when i turn left. Driving straight there is a faint sound but gets louder when turning left and pretty much disappears when turning right. Im stumped its driving me nuts

Oh god knows whats on the driver side for miles, passenger was replaced just this week so no more that a couple hundred or so on that side, thats what ill most likely do is just do the driver side this weekend and eliminate any possibility of it being that side as well. Ive never really delt with tapered wheel bearings so idk if they get loose like hub bearings do or if they just make noise like im hearing. But one thing i can say is i ******* love the ease of replacement on them. I have a new hatred for hub bearings after replacing the passenger side on this truck it was such a cake walk compared to hubs.

I just tightened them the other week, when i did my passenger wheel bearing 2 days ago that side got re tightened so ill have to check the driver side but i highly doubt wheels are cracked since they are factory steelies, would probably bend before cracking. The noise is driving me nuts though im like 99% positive its coming from up front. Ive had many bad wheel bearings in the pas and diagnosed them pretty easy by ear. As well as had a blown up g80 in a duramax that howled like no other so distinguishing noise from front or back is pretty easy to me

Now did you hear them while driving? Cus it only gets loud when i turn left. And it honestly really sounds like its coming from up front. Im just stumped cus i replaced the side i thought it was. Would this make sense, If im turning away from the bearing and weight transfers to that side the bearing gets louder, turning towards the bearing weight is taken off the bearing and gets quiet? Ive checked both sides and they have like no play at all im wondering if i should do the driver side too now. Ive been pretty damn good over the years at pin pointing noises on vehicals and i e even shut my truck off while driving and coasted and turned left and right and i swear its up front. Im just stumped right now, could the bearings i put in from orileys have been bad? The noise didnt change at all so i really dont think it was that bearing. I wana pull my hair out loll

I have a 1999 dodge ram 3500 2wd dually and i started hearing what i thought was a wheel bearing when i turn left. I jacked up the passenger side and checked for any play in the wheel and felt the tiniest bit of play in the bearing(or so i thought) i did the passenger side front inner and outer wheel bearings the inner bearing race had one pea sized spot that was all fuckered up like someone hit it with something by accident, the outer looked fine but replaced them both and the seal. Well after getting everything back together it seemed to still have that little bit of play so i looked further and found the top ball joint to move ever so slightly. Well after driving the noise is still there, any idea what it could be it gets louder when turning left and almost goes away when turning right hence why i suspected the passanger side since every bad wheel bearing ive fone in the past this was how they acted if you were to turn away from it it gets loud and turning into it gets quiet. any idea what it could be? Driver side feels fine no play. Could it be the rear wheel bearings? Ive never in my life had to do rear wheel bearings on a solid axle so im kinda stumped

It broke as i was pulling it out more than likely, it was very brittle but what gets me is the hole in the bottom like it wore through ill take a picture when i get home. And when i out the new one it it didnt work until i pulled out of the camp ground and hit like 40 mph then it came alive and been fine since

Ended up being the speed sensor itself, deffinetly was the original one to the truck, i pulled it out and the end of the sensor broke right off had to dig it out with a pick. The bottom of the sensor that is right by the tone ring looked almost as it had worn through some how, i stuck my finger in the hole(giggity) to feel the tone ring and all the teeth were fine and there wasnt a metal shaving shmoo on the bottom of the sensor so im just guna chock it up to 25 years and 316k miles its done its duty and signed off. Ill have to take a picture of the bottom of the sensor when i get a chance so you guys can see how there was a little spot that was like worn through or deteriorated through, didnt look like it was rubbing though

Oh also just to note my adrenaline isnt reading speed either so eould that make you belive it is the sensor? Cus if it was the cluster and not the sensor wouldnt the adrenaline still pick up the speed?

I have a 1999 dodge ram 3500 5 speed 2wd dually and my speedo randomly stopped working. I towed my camper 150 miles it worked the whole way to the campsite then the truck sat for a day and a half and the speedo randomly stopped working when we went for a drive. Also just a piece of information my abs light and brake light on the dash have never worked. I checked the 40amp abs fuse and it was fine. Any ideas what it could be? Just odd it randomly stopped after sitting. Could it be the sensor on the diff or wiring going to it or could there be another abs fuse that could be it?