Everything posted by daav544
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Spark from harmonic balancer
Reviving this old post, did anyone happen to find out the reason behind the sparking, i just saw someone on another form im on with this same issue, in the video you could litterally see the spark every 10 seconds or so. Very curious as to why this would happen, ive heard of internal engine parts becoming magnetized, dont know if something like that could cause this. Everyone on the form is saying the rubber is shot, but unless the wheel is physically slipping on the rubber then i really couldnt see the rubber being the issue. The balancer in his video is spinning straight as an arrow i would like to belive that if it was slipping causing a charge then it wouldnt be so true while spinning. Idk just got my brain turning and was hoping to find that someone figured out the issue. Deffinetly weird
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Clutch burn question
So im about to do my pinion bearing and outer seal. And yes i know the way im doing it is not right but its what i got at the moment. So i have the outer pinion bearing only no race and the seal. My question is will i be able to slip that bearing out without pulling the carrier? Or is it pressed on the shaft? I really dont feel like pulling the carrier again if i dont have to it blows. I only have a little bit of play and my seal is leaking so im hoping to just slap the outer bearing on and a new seal and call it a day.
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Clutch burn question
Oh yes i know of the brake in procedure, and drive like a grandma most of the time anyway and do alot of highway driving with alot of stop and go certain times due to traffic, usually can put 500 miles on during the week easily. And my camper is only 4000k pounds so if i do end up towing soon after install ill be sure to be careful. Cruise control doesnt work anyway. It worked before at some point just randomly stopped working i guess ill have to look into that. But anyways if i did the clutch on a weekend and decided to go camping the following weekend more than likely the clutch would have over 500 miles on it. I wana just throw in a better clutch plate, i think the clutch i have. Uses a 3250# pressure plate and the stronger holding dual friction ones use a 3400# pressure plate i wonder if the difference in those pressure plates would make a big difference in holding power or not? I should probably just get the whole clutch since the plate itself is like 440$ and with the pressure plate its a couple hundred dollars more at like 700$
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Clutch burn question
So price is a factor for me right now as well, i dont have the money to fork out for a dual disk even though id love to, i belive i have the 13in organic valair kit for 450hp. My buddy is guna try to find the box this weekend and confirm that. But anyway i wana try to save some money and buy just a clutch plate since this whole clutch has like less than 20k miles. My question is would a different brand clutch disk work with the valair pressure plate and flywheel? I was thinking of either the phoenix friction or just go with valairs kevlar/ceramic
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Clutch burn question
So i know both valair and southbend have like a cult following behind them and some people despise one or the other, well i just learned of this company Phoenix friction from a guy on a forum and he said hes been though alot of clutches and nothing has held or been as good as his phoenix. I was checking out their site and they have organics, ceramics, ceramic/kevlar,and feramalloy clutches. The one im thinking of getting it a feram alloy sever duty clutch good for 600hp 1080ftlbs of torque. Also learned of centerforce clutches and they use some sort of weights that add pressure with centrifugal force. So im guna do some calling around and talk to each of their reps and get a low down on their stuff.I talked with valair and my buddy saying the clutch is either 400hp or 450hp valair said its most likely a 13in. I was happy to find out all their flywheels are dual drilled for either or. I was also thinking of just buying a valair kevlar/ceramic clutch plate since every thing else(flywheel, and pressure plate and hydros) are all new with lik 20k on them. Whats you guys opinion on just throwing in a different clutch plate? Also have you heard of phoenix friction or centerforce and heard any reviews?
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Clutch burn question
So come to find out the clutch in this truck is actually a 400hp or 450hp according to my buddy. So i bought the truck off a good friend who took his friends brand new valair clutch and put it in this truck scince his friends truck isnt guna be on the road any time soon. Ive slipped this clutch in higher gears on a hard pull once or twice before so i knew it wasnt the best for holding power. Im thinking of getting the actual valair 550hp ceramic/ceramic clutch or the 500hp ceramic/ kevlar clutch. The C/C is 650$ and the C/K is 820$ my question is for anyone thats driven the dual ceramics before is on valairs website it says not for towing, well obviously you could tow with the clutch but is the reasoning behind that just the fact that there basically engaged or disengaged so it would be kinda unpleasant so to speak on driveability? Or is there something else to that. For the price i like the idea of something that would hold 550hp opposed to the lesser 500hp thats also 200 bucks more. I know some people have a cult following for valair and some absolutely despise them. For what my truck is and what i do the clutch in it has been great but id like to be able to really get on it once in a while without having to worry about slip. And with how low 1st gear is on these things im not opposed to the driving mannors of a ceramic/ ceramic since you really would never have to slip 1st anyway. The heaviest thing this truck will see would be about a 11k pound camper that were thinking of buying
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Clutch burn question
So i have a valair 550hp clutch in my nv4500 and i just did a burn out 1st through 4th cus it was wet out in my dually and i thought it was spinning in 4th but after i smelt a heavy smell of my clutch. This clutch only has like 15k miles max on it. Is this something i should be worried about. I only held it for like 3 or 4 seconds in Fourth befor i let off i just hope i didnt rewin it
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Allen head bolt head gasket question
Id really like to do some kind of test with the stock bolts vs the allen head bolts wish i had a way of measuring a stretch test of some sort. Ill have to take a dial caliper and see exactly how much larger the allen bolts are. From what ive read theres a bunch of people with good results running these kind of bolts, some people 50-60psi on stock high mileage head gaskets for years, some even made 800hp on them and even read about one guy with a pull truck running a marine headgasket with these kinds of bolts and has pushed 100psi. Theres a good video by banks talking headbolts, ill let you hear what he has to say. I love gale, truly a godsend like moparman. But have fun camping i just got back from bike week in new Hampshire last week and the week before that we were up there watching the top fuel races
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Allen head bolt head gasket question
And as far as power im stock turbo, with intake, intake horn, 7x.010 (150hp) injectors, stock downpipe to a 5in side pipe befoee rear wheels and quadzilla adrenaline but i usually run stock tune/ a 1badvp eco tune that someone was nice enough to send me pics of the settings of that he got for his truck with similar mods.
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Allen head bolt head gasket question
these are the two exact ones i bought and the washer is almost exactly the same size as the underside of the stock bolts. I was happy with the size difference on the shank of the new bolts and the fact they used less un needed threads. Washers are grade 12.9 as well. But back to the oil in the hole thing, on initial torque i got them all to 120ft lbs. But on the hot re torque which i shouldnt have done and just left well alone some of the bolts like i said felt like they would keep spinning if i kept at then i dropped the torque wrench back down to like 115 and got them to click after like a 1/4 turn or so. I should be fine in theory but just worried myself a bit
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Allen head bolt head gasket question
So the whole reason i did this is because of this video Power driven diesels guy tony did this years ago before they started making their own kits. He put these bolts in on a truck with 300k + miles and ran 50 pounds of boost or more making some good power and did it for years on that head gasket apparently. So i figured if it worked for him why not try it. If it helps it live to 400k or more on my 150hp injectors id be happy. The only thing that im not to happy about with myself is not getting all the oil out of the holes. A few bolts felt like they turned more than others while torquing, not by much but i could tell compared to the holes outside the valve cover. Andd the fact i listened to some people about doing a hot re torque when i did that the bolts inside the valve cover that possibly had oil on them felt like they would keep turning if i kept going i got like a 1/4 to half turn out of some before i said this doesnt feel right and stopped before i went and ****** something up like pulling threads or breaking a bolt. I turned the wrench down to like 115 at this time got them to click rather easily then went to 118 and clicked without much rotation but the initial 120 was a butthole puckering moment for sure lol
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Allen head bolt head gasket question
So i just did new head bolts this weekend on my truck. I got grade 12.9 allen head bolts and grade 12.9 washers off mcmaster carr for 84 bucks. The bolts are made in italy and seem like real good quality. I replaced my stock bolts one at a time front to back torquing the bolts to 120ft lbs each time i changed one. I used arp fastener lube and tried to remove as much oil from the holes under the valve cover that had oil in them. This is where i might have messed up by not getting all the oil out of the holes. So 90 percent of the bolts torqued down just fine but some seemed to have a little slip like they would spin slightly more before clicking . Possibly due to oil on the threads. Now i shouldnt have listened to some of the morons on this forum im on on facebook. Some people were saying to do a hot retorque so i started to and the bolts outside of the head would click almost instantly where some of the bolts under the cover seemed like they would keep spinning if i kept at it i got like a 1/4 turn to a half turn out of some bolts and said this just doesnt feel right. So i quit while i was ahaid i didnt want to yeild the bolts or pull threads. My main question is it possible i gained some life span on my 315k mile head gasket by doing this? I wanted to be pro active and try to tighten things up with stronger bolts in the hope of making my head gasket live a longer life. I will say though these allen bolts seem pretty dam stout, the fact the shank is larger is a pluss and the less threads i would think is also a plus scince more threads outside of a hole just means a smaller shank
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1999 24v cummins changes engine tone while keeping steady speed on highway
Ahh i see, well if im good would it be fine to do studs or bolts one by one, i really hope its fine and im just worrying i do not feel like pulling the head loll done it once on a 6.7 dont wana relive muscling that tank of a head on and off loll. And to @IBMobile ive rented a few things from them i might do that this weekend when im fixing my AC. Its almost like one of those if i dont check it will be fine if i do it wont kind of dread lol. Atleast its not a duramax, thankfully these things are relatively easy to do
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1999 24v cummins changes engine tone while keeping steady speed on highway
Now wouldnt i see a leak from just normal coolant pressure from just having the truck idle or driving like i said before this thing doesnt eat a drop of coolant. And 90 percent of the time im babying the thing but have gotten on it a few times. Also if it is still good whats your opinion on replacing head bolts one at a time? And studs or good bolts like power driven diesels bolt kit. Also heard of people buying new stock bolts and torquing them to like 130-140ftlbs with good results holding up to like 50psi. I dont plan on pushing this truck really any farther than im at (7x0.010) injectors,stock turbo)
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1999 24v cummins changes engine tone while keeping steady speed on highway
Yea thats a bummer we dont get to see the full temp range. So back to the slight fluctuations, you dont think it could be HG related do you? Like i said in my previous rant, even when this truck is piping hot i can take the radiator cap off with only slight pressure relife. Truck doesnt eat coolant. I had a duramax with bad HG and it would build pressure within 10 seconds of starting. Ive started it and taken the rad cap off withing 20 seconds of starting and it sprayed out like a fire hose. So compared to that truck i feel like im good. I baby this truck i do get on it sometimes but for thr most part i drive like a grandpa. 312k miles with stock HG and stock head bolts just worries me though id like to replace the head bolts one by one with power driven diesels head bolt kit but want to be sure my HG is good.
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1999 24v cummins changes engine tone while keeping steady speed on highway
Now how come the dash will read up to 240 though? It be cool to tap into that gauges wiring and somehow wire in a little digital temp gauge Might end up buying one of these so i have an accurate temp reading at all times Also you dont think it could be a head gasket do you? I still have stock head bolts and stock head gasket 312k miles i get on it here and there but i really do feel that i baby this thing. When its piping hot i can get out of the truck and take the radiator cap off and it barely relives any pressure a little coolant will seep out as a hot engine typically would when taking the cap off. My old duramax i had that had bad head gaskets would build radiator pressure almost instantly and if you took the cap off even after starting the engine cold after 10 seconds if you took the cap off it would geyser out of the radiator like a dam fire hose. So in that sense i feel like im good compared to that truck. Ive heard of people re torqueing stock bolts with good results and also heard of people breaking bolts doing that. I wana get the power driven diesel head bolt kit eventually and change them one by one but i wana be sure that im good HG wise. Im guna change the thermostat this weekend and see what happens.
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1999 24v cummins changes engine tone while keeping steady speed on highway
No **** huh? So what does you coolant temp reading do while cruising down the highway at like a steady 70-80 mph? Or what should it be doing, i know that over a certain temp it reads -40 so with your higher temp thermostat you probably dont get to see the actual temp to often. Is there any way to fix that? Obviously the dash reads up to 240 so why cant the adrenaline?
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1999 24v cummins changes engine tone while keeping steady speed on highway
@Mopar1973Man question regarding coolant temps just eana know if this is normal or not. Towing my 4k pound camper on flat ground steady speed noticed my coolant temp would fluctuate from 194 to 204 it would take about 20-30 seconds to go from 194 to 204 then back to 194 and do it all over again is that normal
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1999 24v cummins changes engine tone while keeping steady speed on highway
Check out tacomaworld com they also have a great tire size comparison calculator. It shows you the speed differences at any speed and the percent difference in size the tires are from each other. Thats how i ended up putting 245 75 16 on my front rims they were only like .8 of an in larger than the 215s i had on the rear(trucks 2wd) but again im not fully understanding the reasoning behind why the final ratio needs to be between 3.55 and 3.73 to get a tune made?
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1999 24v cummins changes engine tone while keeping steady speed on highway
Good luck man, that **** sucks cancer always goes after the good ones, my mum has multiple myeloma (blood cancer) i wouldnt wish it on anyone. And i figured out that 0-3 infact has no change from my tune changes, i was over here thinking that it did at first🤦 then tried out the other levels and went wtf im an idiot trying all these changes and thinking it was doing something when it didnt
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1999 24v cummins changes engine tone while keeping steady speed on highway
Im still not fully understanding this, does the ratio have to be one of those specified for moparman to be able to test the tune on his truck or something and can confirm it will act similarly on my truck? Im just not fully getting the reasoning behind it, cus anyone with any gear ratio imaginable could make their own tune for their trucks and it wouldnt matter right? This is for someone making someone a tune to be able to say yes this will work with these gear ratios and act how I thin it will because the final ratios are similar? Also @Mopar1973Man i read one of your write ups on the adrenaline and noticed this about levels 0-3 and you say they are always the same and will never change. So if i make a tune outside of the default tunes nothing i do at all will make 0-3 feel any different? (Aside from valet%) I have a tune labeled daily and from what im reading levels 0-3 will not change even if i completely changed the tune parameters like the can bus percentages and timing? Or am i reading that wrong
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1999 24v cummins changes engine tone while keeping steady speed on highway
Also what is the reason the final ratio needs to be 3.55 to 3.73 after tires? I also noticed on the adrenaline when it asks you your tire size the values it allows you to type in are like 95in 120in? Are they going by the circumference of the tire? But most deffinetly will be talking about getting a tune with you in the next week or two
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1999 24v cummins changes engine tone while keeping steady speed on highway
My tires are bald as a babys *** 215/85-16s that im guna be changing soon for almost new 235/85-16s and my rear gear is 4.10. today while driving at 80mph i was watching my coolant and oil temp and coolant stayed around 200-205 and oil was like 175-178 timing would fluctuate from **** 17-20ish but seemed to be around 18ish most the time. And as far as cetane goes how do you figure that out?
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1999 24v cummins changes engine tone while keeping steady speed on highway
Ahh i see, well you still get the tires to smoke in 4th so id say your tunes pretty efficient on the fun side of things too lol. How much would one run me if i had you make me one up, thats if your still doing them no idea if you still do or not? Also what's the set up on your truck? Mines stock turbo with boost elbow, dap 7x0.010 sac injectors, volant intake, s&b intake horn. Stock down pipe to 4in under the cab for about a foot then to 5in dump infront of rear wheels
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1999 24v cummins changes engine tone while keeping steady speed on highway
Lol is this like a dont kiss dont tell kinda thing? I see you giving me a bunch of tips which i appreciate a million but to get the real awnsers its a pay to play kinda deal huh? Lol i would to if i had a brain like yours, alot of money to be made in a market like this. Do you still make tunes for the adrenaline? I see alot of people going to 1badvp44 for their tunes, maybe ill bite the bullet and get one done. Ill deffinetly try what you said though and watch the stock timing for a bit and go from there and see what i come up with