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Sufarry

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Everything posted by Sufarry

  1. 📸 How to Enter:Post ONE photo of your truck in this thread. All generations are welcome. One submission per member—please do not post multiple photos. Submissions are open now and will close at 11:59PM on 7/31/2025 from the time of this post. 🏆 What You Win:The winner will have their truck featured on the front page of the Mopar1973Man Gallery starting August 1st, 2025. 👥 Not a Member Yet?Join the community! It’s a great place to share your build, ask questions, and learn from fellow diesel/truck enthusiasts. Let’s see those builds—good luck
  2. Sort of an update here: I found the lift pump wiring pulled out of the backside of the connector... I don't know when that happened.. Maybe when I was reinstalling the harness? I'm going to get a new connector for it. Basically the truck was running like **** because there was NO LIFT PUMP. Hope the little bit of idling I did with it didn't hurt the VP!
  3. Took some time after work today to try to figure out whats going on with the truck.. still no real diagnosis now. I noticed when I start the truck it runs normally for about 7-10 seconds before it starts idling weird and misfiring. Here's a VIDEO of what its doing now. I'm about this 🤏close to just selling it like it sits. I'm frankly tired of working on it and even more tired of spending money. I'm still not getting any codes... no real path to follow now.
  4. The only code is the lift pump code and the oil pressure sensor code for the faulty oil pressure sensor ( the lift pump code has been there for years. I have an in tank factory conversion that i bypassed for my raptor lift pump, so the plug is disconnected causing the code)
  5. UPDATE Got the wiring harness back in the truck! While I was in there, I also did the WT mod: Alternator power wire is now routed to the passenger side battery The ground splice near the VP has been removed, properly soldered, and terminated on the backside of the timing cover case All good on that front. Now the new issue: Fired up the truck and it’s definitely misfiring — both at idle and under throttle No codes thrown (verified with a good scan tool) The only code-related issue is the ABS light, which wasn't on before When I press the pedal to the floor, it’s slow to rev and misfiring badly and smoking. Ran out of daylight to dig deeper, but that’s where things stand for now. On a positive note: When the idle randomly smooths out, the knock disappears and the truck idles great — so I think I’m slowly getting somewhere!
  6. Sure did! Resistance tested and load tested every thing. No issues found. No crushed wires, no cut/damaged anything. The mystery continues!
  7. Small update: Been real busy at work and general life events! Sorry! I got the Tesa tape in the mail today and finally had a minute to re-wrap my harness. I've never worked with this stuff before. It goes on easy and looks so professional, and apparently holds up well under engine heat. Only time will tell if that's actually true though! Look at all that old grimey, brittle and sticky plastic loom. Feels good to get that off of there!
  8. So far I have found nothing! It's not difficult, just time consuming. I have this old power supply that I'm using to help load test the wires! Good to know! Im a cheap *** and prefer to struggle my way through this LOL.
  9. Well, I decided to pull the engine harness. I want to completely strip it down and go through EVERY wire just to eliminate the possibility of it being a harness issue... The amount of man hours I have into this issue is actually insane.
  10. Looks like you're going to win by default, but also this is really a great photo!
  11. I've actually swapped in a know good ECM. It seemingly helped for a few miles and then returned to knocking. I might have a video of before and after the new ECM somewhere come to think of it! It's hard to tell in this video but the knock appeared maybe a mile or two after the "used but pulled from a running truck" ECM. Almost like it relearned this behavior after a few miles. VIDEO
  12. Thank you for the clarification. I'll give that a shot. I'm on my phone now, so this will be a little less wordy reply lol. I checked the tone ring. No missing teeth (except the one thats supposed to be 😅) and it wasn't loose or movable in anyway. I had had my brother in law rotate the engine over while used my inspection camera to verify it's condition. All good from what I could tell.
  13. Thanks for the reply! It sounds mechanical, but the fact that I can make it go away makes me think its not. If it were, it would be there under all conditions I would believe. "Have you partially blocked the exhaust to see if there is a steady miss when the sound is occurring?" - I'm not sure what you mean by this? Can you explain? "Have you removed the valve cover to see if anything unusual is happening - with or without the engine running?" - I have. Many times. It all seems fine. Nothing appears to change valvetrain wise if I do those procedures with the valve cover off. Not that I can tell. All looks normal. I should add that I have adjusted the valve lash and checked it many times. All within spec. "Can you detect if there is a cylinder miss when the sound is occurring?" - Doesn't appear to be missing. It sounds like over advanced/retarded timing to me. Like the fuel injection is happening too soon or too late causing this sound. It can be heard through the lower end of the rev range, but seemingly smooths out under load, but it's hard to tell. Like I said above, I found ONE other person ( I've been searching for years to find someone that had this issue ) just last week that had the same exact sound as my truck. Even the exhaust note was the same "choppy/stutter" sound. He fixed his by replacing the crankshaft position sensor. I had already done that, but I replaced it again just for giggles. I've Ohm'd out every sensor and sensor wiring on the truck and have yet to find a fault. Having said all of that, the only thing I haven't changed on this truck is the batteries. They are from 2018. I'm going to buy a set of batteries and possibly do the W-T mod as well. I don't suspect any of that will help, but it can't hurt! Well.. It does hurt my wallet!
  14. UPDATE: I ordered a Cummins OEM Crankshaft Position Sensor. I got it installed today. Unfortunately no change. The truck is still behaving the exact same way. So I guess my journey to figure this out continues. I am starting to lose hope again. I think my next step is to buy the Quadzilla tuner again (I had it on the truck before, but it died on me and was out of warranty so I never bought another one) at the recommendation of MoparMan. He says the quadzilla has the ability to data log actual timing and compare it to commanded timing. I'd like to see what changes when I end the kill test (causing the knock to go away). Maybe that will help point me in a new direction.
  15. Hey buddy! I don't know the sizes, but you can likely find another bolt on the truck that will fit it to help you gauge diameter and thread pitch at least. Then take that info to your local hardware store and get the right length!
  16. Hey everyone, I’m excited to announce that I’ve officially taken on the role of Gallery Moderator here at Mopar1973Man! I’ll be working to keep the photo gallery fresh and active by featuring member trucks from all generations! To kick things off, we’re starting a Truck of the Month (TOTM) photo contest! 📸 How to Enter:Post ONE photo of your truck in this thread. All generations are welcome. One submission per member—please do not post multiple photos. Submissions are open now and will close at 11:59PM on 6/30/2025 from the time of this post. 🏆 What You Win:The winner will have their truck featured on the front page of the Mopar1973Man Gallery starting July 1st, 2025. 👥 Not a Member Yet?Join the community! It’s a great place to share your build, ask questions, and learn from fellow diesel/truck enthusiasts. Let’s see those builds—good luck!
  17. Thank you for the opportunity! Happy to be here and be a part of this ever growing community!
  18. I appreciate the phone call as well. Good to chat with someone that actually knows what they're talking about! I hope to update this next week with a solution! This has been an ongoing thing for years now!
  19. Hey! Thank you for the kind words and thank you for replying! I believe you're right. I'm sure disabling the injectors causes it to temporarily not read from sensor data, therefore causing the knocking to go away. I did forget to add that I did check the tone ring - partially. I removed the crank sensor 2 days ago to inspect it again. I took a photo inside of the crank sensor hole and tried to budge it with a flat head. No movement. What I DIDN'T do is rotate the crank around to verify each tooth. I suppose I could do that this evening and see. I would like to think if it was missing a tooth that there would be a CEL for CAM/Crank sync, but who knows! When I get home I'll whip out the inspection camera and see what I see! Thank you again!
  20. LINK TO THE VIDEO Hey everyone, sorry for the long read but please God read it and help me!! I've been dealing with a persistent and frustrating issue on my truck for years, and it's seriously driving me crazy. As a mechanic, it really eats at me that I haven’t been able to solve it. I'm absolutely racking my brain here, and I'm hoping someone can offer some insight I haven’t considered. The Problem:My truck has a terrible knock at idle that’s so harsh it literally shakes the inside of the cab. It’s loud and clearly audible, especially in person. The knock doesn’t seem to increase with RPM—it’s primarily noticeable at idle—but it does affect the exhaust note, making it sound choppy (you can hear this clearly in the video I’ll link). What Makes It Go Away (Temporarily):Here’s the strange part: If I unplug the VP44 connector and supply 12V power directly to the pump, bypassing the ECU entirely, the knock disappears completely. This made me suspect it’s related to ECU inputs or sensor feedback. Using my scan tool, I can disable ANY injector and then re-enable it. The knock then goes away for about 10 seconds before coming back. During those 10 seconds, the engine runs smooth as butter—no shake, clean exhaust note. Watch the video and you’ll see what I mean. When I cycle an injector, the knock vanishes for a moment and returns sharply—you’ll especially hear it in the exhaust. Parts I've Replaced / Things I've Checked:Here’s what I’ve done so far (this issue predates many of these replacements): Replaced VP44 with a known good used unit from a running truck Replaced crank sensor and verified wiring from ECU to sensor Replaced MAP sensor and verified wiring to ECU Installed brand-new injectors (again, issue existed before this) New alternator (unrelated, but noting for completeness) Installed AirDog Raptor and Beans Diesel sump – fuel pressure is spot on Swapped ECUs from a known good truck – no change Verified APPS wiring and voltage – originally low (~0.34V), adjusted to 0.5V as per MoparMan's advice Checked IAT sensor and verified voltage/wiring to ECU Physically checked the timing marks on the timing gears - all good there. None of these changes have made a dent in the issue. Final Thoughts:This truck is driving me insane. I know the signs are pointing to some sort of input/communication issue, but I’ve tested and replaced so much already that I’m at a loss. If anyone out there has run into something similar or has suggestions for what to check next, please let me know. I’m open to trying anything at this point. Thanks in advance! Note:I did find a guy on the 2nd gen Facebook page that had the exact same knocking sound and his issue was resolved by replacing the crank sensor. I've done this already, but he did say he replaced his with a cheap amazon one and the issue wasn't fixed, but he tried a name brand one from the part store and it went away.. I'm hesitant to try a new sensor again, but I will buy the Cummins one if y'all think this would fix it!

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