Greenlee

That could be, I remember looking at the second truck's stenciled white stars and even from memory they were almost identical. I hope I can find the right rock to throw and hit the right person that might clear this up for me. Funny thing how one little thing always sticks in your mind. thanks Rancherman I appreciate what you added to this.

One more thing. Boy, this was a long time ago and it bothered me a little that I didn't have better documentation or any documentation. I started thinking what year truck it was that the engine was in. I was a 1979 Dodge D300 Adventurer SE long wheel base single rear wheel. The only reason I can relate to this is the 4 headlights. Very nice truck in the day and I hope this is accurate. One thing about the valve covers and the Stars Stenciled on them, they had to be at least 1-1/4 inches in size, only a few full size and the rest partial sized as they came to the edges of the cover. Not done one at a time. At the time of the Daytona 500 in 1979 Richard Petty switched to Oldsmobile and won First Place. Prior to the switch I read that Dodge did sent a lot of test engines 360 cu.in. but Richard was discussed with the performance of the factory engines in the test cars so went on to Olds and it didn't matter what he drove as long as his STP sponsor stayed with him. A lot of back room talks took place from prior years and are still going on I am sure. Time to end this post...it's a dead end. Thanks everyone.

I just finished reading Richard Petty's racing history and the beginning of NASCAR. I don't thing the star stenciled valve covers had anything to do with Petty Racing. I searched the Webb with no hits and no answers. I don't think it was a fluke because of the way these engines performed. I guess it doesn't matter who made them and why, it was a long time ago and I doubt very many exist or made it this far down the road. A lot of rebuilds and engine painting took care of any stars showing. Thank you Rancherman for your input.

great advice, it might be a dead end in the long run but I am going to do as you suggested and look up someone who is an expert on Petty. Of course there might be someone in AL who just liked painting stars on valve covers and is really liking all of this .lol. I don't believe that because of what I have seen but there is an answer out there somewhere. Thanks

Hey Rancherman, you are asking a question I don't know. Now that you mention it a 318 has no business in a 1 ton truck. I don't know what engine sizes NASCAR used back then and my 71 3/4 ton was highly modified with 4:11 or 4:10 gears and it could not stay with it. Mr. Clark is still alive and still works on rebuilding older Dodge trucks. He lived off Hwy 98 in Semmes and the property he owned was property left to his wife, many acres that Wal Mart now owns along with other stores. I personally haven't seen him in over 20 years and I honestly think he designed trucks for the original Dodge brother lol. Now please don't think I am serious about that, bottom line he was a Dodge man and always will be. These engines were special, tons of low end torque and when you put your foot in it your were the one to let up because it did not slow down at all. It didn't occur to me that it could have been a stroked out 340 or even a 360. I have never put any information out about this and was reading some articles and thought here is a large group of members that have been around a few times and might have some inside information to share, Thank you for adding to this, i hope some others might see the post as well

I have a crazy question to ask. My first dodge truck was 1971 ¾ ton with a gas 360 engine. What a beast. Of course it did not remain stock for long but that is another story. Here in Mobile Alabama I made friends with an older gentleman that built and sold Dodge trucks from junk. He knows every nut, bolt and screw that goes in one. His trucks were not pretty but would run forever when he got through rebuilding one. I came to see him one day since I repaired all of the cracked frames where the steering was attached. Another long story to tell if anyone wants to hear it I will tell you how we never had any more cracks. To get on with my story and question I bought a 1-ton Dodge single wheel with only a 318 in it. The valve covers where stenciled with white stars. Mr. Clark called me because he had a customer that wanted to just by the engine and was willing to pay way more than its value. I didn’t have any interest at all in doing so. He asks me how the truck ran, I told him it was not only extremely fast compared to other 1-ton trucks in general but was very powerful. One reason I wanted the truck to begin with. I had a welding business on the side. He begged for that engine and asked Mr. Clark if he ever saw another one like it and he said he has seen 1 or 2 the same way mostly in wreckers. The individual stated these engines were factory engines sent to NASCAR to be rebuilt and tested and then re-crated being sent back to Chrysler or Dodge engine division. He claimed Richard Petty did this, and if I were to tear the engine down there would be documentation tagged on an ID plate in the engine. I finally sold him the entire truck and regretted it but money was tight and I still had my 71. I don’t expect anyone to believe the source of the peculiar stared valve covers or if for a fact they came from Petty or someone in the NASCAR business. I just want to know if anyone else knows anything or can clear up the story of these engines. It has always puzzled me. And I can tell you this, I never drove another 318 engine in any Dodge truck ½ ton to 1 ton that would run like the one I drove with the stars. I am sure I will get laughed out of the Forum but I don’t care I just want to know where that engine came from. I saw one other that ended up at Mr. Clark’s and it was a 360 cu/in and the owner wouldn't discuss selling it. He said he know what he had. This was in the late 70s.

Again, I appreciate the information. I had looked at this joint but was not certain if it was part of the puzzle or not. I bought all my gaskets from Geno's but did not purchase this one. Thank you for the part number I'll need to order this one. - - - Updated - - - I think all of you have given me some good advice in addition to instructions saving me from going underneath my truck to remove hardware when it can all be done from the top. I know it sounds ignorant on my part for asking but this information will definitely make this job easier for me. I know from re-reading this thread that I am a bubble or more off and for that I appreciate all of you being patient with me. I have been reading as many threads as possible except when I have issues going on; there is a lot of knowledge to pick up on and much advice to help anyone learn how to maintain their Cummins truck regardless of the situation. I’m going to order the gasket I need and when it arrives start the break down process. I hope I can document how it turns out or maybe someone who has done this before might document it from a professional standpoint, I believe it would help members dealing with removing the turbo or removing the exhaust manifold or a combination of both. Thank you all for the advice on answering my question. now I need to shut-up and get to work.

That really sounds great, I have the use of an electric impact wrench but will not be able it seems to reach every piece of hardware with it. I used a pull wrench on a couple and they broke fairly easy. As Mopar1973Man suggested after soaking with pen/oil I will try and rattle off as many as I can. Does the turbo break at the exhaust pipe or is there some other point to break the turbo from the exhaust system?? And thank you for your input.

Thank you, I have looked hard at the turbo thinking you could get a better view of the underside cap screws and studs holding the bottom and then maybe getting it off but did not if going under the truck woulld give full access to the same. I can't express how much I appreciate the information. - - - Updated - - - Thank you, I have looked hard at the turbo thinking you could get a better view of the underside cap screws and studs holding the bottom and then maybe getting it off but did not if going under the truck woulld give full access to the same. I can't express how much I appreciate the information.

I have a 1999 Dodge 2500 Cummins with a cracked manifold that is long overdue for replacement. I bought a slightly used manifold from Drag Racer that is in new condition. I used to be a good mechanic meaning I would always get job done and back together without any parts laying around. I am not in good phyical shape and have issues getting up and down so if anyone has done this and could share with me where you started and especially what you did from the bottom side it would save me several moves getting under my truck and what can be left in place. I am concerned that I might have to break it lose from the exhaust pipe or will I be able to just take the manifold apart from the turbo and have the room to pull it out. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

They are also called vari-bits and if you are drilling on thick material you can drill both sides to the diameter then use the correct size drill bit to make the finial hole with a lot less metal to take out and a better chance of not bitting and hanging up. The Vari-bit drills are pricy but they work better than anything I have ever used to get a hole started and 99% of the time will not hang up. As far as welding on frames...Most 3/4 and 1 ton frames do not have the tensile strength past mild carbon steel, tractor trailer rigs are strong with higher tensile strenghs requiered for the loads they carry. If you are a excellent welder then you should have no issue welding on a frame or and you should not see your weld crack. The manufacture should have specs on any frame regardless if it is Dodge, Ford, or GM and should be able to supply you with a procedure for welding or modifing on any frame they make. Some trucks are highly modified from the factory or a third party that makes it into a custom rig and they do weld on the frame, crossmembers or anything else that is there in the design. Most frames can be welded with a mig or SMAW using a 7018 equivalent. A 3/32 electrode can be used to weld a frame all day long running anywhere from 70 amps (cool side) to 90 amps (hot side) with a skilled welder behind the hood. It's when you don't have the skill or experience to weld certain materials or items that gets you in trouble. Now I am not trying to get anyone upset but I am also a CWI and a CPWI as well as a cert. pipe/tube welder fabricator for 40 pluse years...I will back up anything I tell you even if I have to figure a way to drive to your driveway. No just kidding about the last part...you have got to have some humor in all of this.

What are you asking about welding...I have only done for a little over 40 years and I have welded on many Dodge truck frames that were cracked where the power steering is attached to the frame. I have extended frames and shortened frames and I can probably tell anything you want to know about welding a frame with the type of welding machine you might have. If i am off track bring me back around. Sorry fellows, I jumped in before reading the entire thread...looks like you have it taken care of so please disregard my statement above. When you get into welding and drilling along with the methods of "How To" then it's best to stay back and let someone else handle it.

It does, I also feel better about all the facts and testimonies that you and others have posted on this Forum that proves how well 2 cycle works with Diesel Fuel. I could tell the difference in the sound of the engine the first time I added it to my fuel. Thanks - - - Updated - - - Still learning about filters and Amsoil, I want to use whats best or recommended for my truck. It won't be long and I will have my first oil, fuel filter, oil filter change. Right now the previous owner is using Shell syn. so I will stay on page until I do some more research, just need to go in the right direction and not get too anxious to change things up. Have a good day

Your welcome, I agree that there had to be some confusion over 2 cycle or ATF, it through me off. What really got me was MoparMan putting the reports out there for me to read on how Bosch rated lubricants or additives, I have to learn the the lingo so you all can understand what I am trying to say. I wonder if Chip still drives a Cummins of some sort???? Now on oil and transmission, filters and rear-end gear oil Chip said for me to use Amsoil and Fleetguard. I have the email to be more accurate on exactly what he recommended. I can look for it but all of probably already are familure with these products.

After I bought my VP44 from Chip I emailed questions in general over a period of a week or so. One question was about me using 2 cycle oil to lube my fuel system. I just went back to read his response once again, it will be in my own words since I don't have permission from Chip nor do I want him not to trust me or think I am trying to undermine his experise on Cummins, etc.. I will put in my own words but stay as close as possible to what he said to me. I ask the following question: Chip, do I need to put a 2 cycle engine oil in the tank for lube to the pump? Paul Greenlee Hello Paul, I am not a chemist, but I do know that ATF has virtually NO additives in it, and additives are what make each product uniquely effective for their specialized job why people try to outsmart chemists doing what they are paid to do best. If you want an additive, buy the one designed to do what you want, is my opinion. Point in fact is, in our part of the world diesel fuel is s*@# and has only a cetane rating of 40 most of the time. When I get to VA and buy fuel it is 45 and gives me much better mileage, so when I buy fuel at home I put an additive that has a cetane improver in it as well as water removal etc., and the improved mileage actually pays for the additive. ATF definitely won't do that. Get my drift? Chip Fisher Chip was a big help in convincing me that I could put this pump in if I just followed his directions, so I took his and MoparMans instructions and studied them both and installed the pump. Now I don't know where the ATF came from, if it was a misunderstanding or a brain freeze because I never ask about ATF only 2 Cycle Oil. From what I have learned Chip is an expert on Cummins and has been since Dodge decided to put the first 5.9 Cummins to work in 1989. I didn't want to stir the pot so I just left it alone and figured I would have to make a decision based on what I have been reading. I still go to his webb page and read about the pumps and trouble shooting to to learn. Sorry this was so long and let me be clear that I am not criticizing or disputing anything that Chip said in his reply and that I am learning all I can about additives just so I can have a decent opionion. - - - Updated - - - I have heard the same even though I used email to communicate Chip helped me get this job done. He did tell me that he does keep tabs on the pumps and they are built between 2 builders to his specs only and there is no one in the business that duplicates his builds, so you are getting more than your dollars worth when you purchase one of his. When he says as close to new as you can get you might as well say it is new from all the mods and upgrades he does. If he can sit around Florida soaking up the sun taking it easy that is great...he worked for it.

I need to do the same, buy it by the gallon and measure it out accordingly. I need to correct the amount I am using as well, it might be half the dose but it is better than none at all. Appreciate it.

It can be overwhelming, I had a heartattack when mine went out because I didn't have a clue what I was now dealing with. After reading and looking at the Forums I started to understand just enough to begin the learning curve. My biggest concern is putting the 2 cycle in my tank because Blue Chip is totally against it. I do not want to cause any damage to my VP44 especially when I paid so much for it. I have read many of the threads on 2 cycle on this Forum and trust what I looked at. I filled up yesterday afternoon, 600 miles on 30 gallons with 1/8 of a tank left. It dawned on me that I am only putting 16 oz. in the tank per fill up, about half of what I should be adding. I can still tell a big difference in the sound of the engine and how much smoother is runs with just a 1/2 per gallon. I need to get my act together and buy it a gallon at a time and find a container that will be easy to measure. Since I took the old lift pump out of the tank I am concerned about getting any lower than 1/8 on fuel. Like you I enjoy just driving my truck, most of the time the radio is off and the sound of the engine is what comes over the speakers. You are also correct on the add-ons, I might not need to do anything else except install a good EGT gauge and fuel gauge and let it go. I thought about injectors only to gain a little more mileage. It was good talking to you, have a great day, and thanks.

I didn't think about the EGTs when I was looking at the truck, too excited about the find. It hit me later as to why that manifold was broken or could have broken. The previous owner did good maintenance but that doesn't tell me his driving habbits or know how with this truck. I have a nice wish list but I have to do things in steps. I want to get the EGTs under contorl along with the fuel pressure by installing gauges. Yep, it does get your attention when the fumes first come in the cab but it goes away as I start to move forward. I have to save my threads just to go back and re-read to make notes on the various suggestions and vendors to use. Thanks men for all the input. - - - Updated - - - I feel like I might have made a mistake about the pump, but honestly when I made my mind up I told myself I would not have the income to buy tuners or other goodies and bought the pump because it was already set up with some SAFE advance????? and the advertised increase in horse power which isn't much with 22 HP at the rear wheels. I don't know what that equates to at the flywheel but it can't be much. I do appreciate what you wrote about the pump--Special X I can't tell you how many times I have gone back to Chip's webb page to re-read the facts to convince myself that it was not a bad choice at all. I do think MoparMan is on the money with using a stock VP44 and then you can do what ever you want. I know that I am limited but I studied a lot of signatures as I was reading this forum and what stood out to me was the Big Honkin, basic gauges, 2 cycle oil, 50 horse injectors....and now scangauge to help with the true mileage. Most of the time I am not logged in because I get up and down a lot and when I am logged in I am logged out after a short break....so I just get on and study. I hit a lot of THANKS but when I do I mean it. I would like to say thank you to everyone on the Forum. I can't do this everyday but let me tell you it is nice to have some conversation especially when it comes to Cummins Trucks. So Thanks everyone!!! - - - Updated - - - I am starting to believe that I did buy a good one based on the little bit of knowledge I had about it. The most important thing is the new computer. I looked at all I could find on the internet and the biggest percentage of computers were simply reused from the crashed VP44 they came on, heat cycles and all. I also knew that I would be putting this monster in, well not really, it went well even if it took me 3 days but I worked comfortable and was not in a hurry. I have come to find out that I don't always agree with Blue Chip on somethings such as additives but I am not an expert and don't want anyone to take it the wrong way. Chip Fisher is in a leauge of his own but then people like MoparMan are also in a leauge that Chip Fisher as no clue about just because of the goals they are both seeking...performance vs longevity. And I know there more of you guys that have so much expertise that it would give me brain damage to even try and understand half of what is shared. If I stay alive long enough I will someday be able to join in and get off the porch. - - - Updated - - - That is a great price, I use Advanced a lot. Maybe that price will hold long enough for me to pick one up. Appreciate the tip.

Thats what I am looking for, I noticed the cracked exhaust manifold when I first looked the engine over. No big deal at first but then the VP44 went out after driving it 250 miles...I was sick. Let it sit for a couple of weeks trying to educate myself on injection pumps. MoparMan was a big help on this and some members on the Dodge Cummins Forum. When I crawled under the truck I noticed I also had the #53 block casting...I thought what kind of dumb luck do I have. No cracks on the block so far and I hope it stays that way. This is a great Forum and a great bunch of experienced Cummins owers, thanks for all the info.

Yes, I did mean exhaust manifold, this truck had and still does have a cracked exhaust manifold. The worst part is when I first crank it and the fumes come in the cab. I don't know how the previous owner cracked it but he did tow a bumper pull and from reading the records of maintenance he did they traveled all over the West and East coast. I have to be careful what I spend but now that I have the VP44 replaced and a new lift pump I can replace it next. MoparMan expressed to add a mechanical fuel pump ASAP to keep an eye on my new fuel system. I don't have the knowledge or experience you Cummins owners have right now with this 99 being my first one. The 5 speed NV4500 is great and I am looking for Max mileage and a little fun driving as well. I am adding 2 cycle oil to my fuel after MoparMan posted the link on test results and what a difference it makes on the noise. It is not recommeded by Blue Chip Performance but most additives seem to be harmful if they can't lubricate the system. I am coming up on my first oil, filter change and want to get it right the first time. I have been reading entire threads from front to back on all topics to stay informed. I will probably leave the exhaust pipes alone for now but I would like to cut out the first smaller muffler if that is what it is and put a straight pipe in later. One step at a time and read all I can from what all the experts are sharing like you sir, thanks for your input.

When I bought the truck off a lot it was stock and the overhead was working the same as it is now. The VP went out on me which caused me to look for another injector pump and I replaced the lift pump as well. Thanks for sharing how yours went out. I didn't want to change up a lot of stock items on the interior but if the overhead compass is not worth fixing it will have to go and be replaced with something better. - - - Updated - - - Words of wisdom for a dummy like me. I concentrated more on the new computer, telling myself I would never be able to purchase a tuner or other goodies with the exception of a fuel gauge, maybe the "Big Honker Air Filter", and a set of 50 HP injectors way down the road. A good exhaust manifold is the next item, then I will concentrate on the mechanical fuel gauge and get some help on putting it in. I think I am pretty limited on the rest due to the Special X I bought, once again, live and learn.

Well this gives me some ideas but I hate to loose the Compass but I do have an GPS that will do the same thing. According to Blue Chip the Mechanical advance is minor and not a race add-on at all. I bought it for one reason and that was to get a new computer with it. I hate to say that I heard some bad problems dealing with some of the other vendors that held me back but I did and up close. So did I make a good decision, I don't know being so new to this type of diesel. My truck runs great and for the first time in some crazy traffic I had to run upwards of 80 to 85 or get shoved to the side of the road. At those speeds the interior was super quite with lots of power still on hand. I do appreciate your input MoparMan and I have giving serious thought to the big honker and injectors to get a little more mileage out of mine. I will have to investigate the boxes you suggested but I am sure if they are what you suggest it is good enough for me. How do I add more infor on my truck since I have upgraded my VP44 and lift pump? Thanks again

From the time I bought my Cummins the trip, compass, fuel mileage computer that is located between the visors has been a screw up. The compass always has CAL and the direction is always incorrect. I have calibrated it according to the manual and what is posted on Geno's. The Calibration resets has long as the truck is running but always goes back to CAL mode when I restart. My average mileage is stuck on 15.3 but will change when I reset it and give much better readings but again when I turn off the truck and restart it goes back to the original numbers.I am hoping that I will not have to purchase a new one, most are selling for $200 on ebay. Any ideas or suggestions would help.On the same note I am tryinng to get the best mileage I can. I just installed a Blue Chip Special X with NEW computer and 22 horses at the rear. Now with this pump I am told I can not install a tuner because the pump is already mechanically advanced and does let go of a little smoke between shifts. I was counting on the computer to help keep up with mileage. On my second full tank I have gone 550 miles, 80% highway and 20% city with 3/8 of a tank left. This is at 65 to 70 MPH. I did not want to add any add-ons but I already have a cracked exhust manifold which can with the truck. I am thinking of the same air filter than MoparMan uses and later going to the 50HP injectors to get mileage and quite the engine down a little. I am new to this forum so if this is in the wrong place just let me know and I will see how to get it corrected.