Greenlee

There will be a lot of Chickens Looking at this one, don't need to read, FAX says it all

Didn't know that, if the dealer has them priced about the same you would be money ahead because of the high shipping costs. Great advice. No place around here that you could ever find a truck with a complete Core in it. People are waiting all the time at the U-Pull-It yards to destroy anything that comes in for a handful of cheap reusable parts. They will destroy a good dash to get a switch out or radio, none take the time to unbolt anything. The Automotive Recycling Centers won't let you in the yard except once in a while to identify if it's the part you are looking for. They don't waste their time with a lot of interior parts. It's a shame. I'm sure there are some that deal with the upper class yards and can get in but most of the time it's a dead end. If I could get the parts out of the Dodges here I would pay some one who is qualified to turn wrenches and put it all on eBay for a FAIR price and shipping. It doesn't matter if the part is 1 year old or 20 years old most gated recycle yards want at least 1/2 of what the original new price was or more. Sorry for throwing all that in but you did really good to spend what you did and I'm happy that you got a good deal. It shows me that there are ways to get the parts and save money depending on location. Thanks for the pictures, they show a lot of detail and answer a lot of questions.

You did a tremendous job rebuilding the dash, great pictures and great results. Just getting that Dash Core out with no breaks is a job. Open up a shop for 2nd Gen Restoration, yours is probably better than most professionals could ever think of doing. Thanks for sharing this on the Forum. Keep us posted and thank you.

I had issues with my transmission several years ago, it didn't act the same as yours but still up and down shifted constantly, wouldn't go into OD until I hit 55 plus. I had all the grounds taken off and cleaned but was still seeing voltage problems. Didn't think much of it when I checked the battery cables but noticed the cables were not tight at all. It was the connector, cheap with a screw down tab on top to lock the cable in. Went to eBay and bought a set of Military Battery Connectors and some lugs so a friend could use his Hydraulic tool to squeeze the lugs on and the cables. He got the crimping tool at Harbor Freight on the cheap. When we finished the transmission shifted smooth as silk in all gears and the issues went away. Maybe this has nothing to do with what's going on with yours but maybe it will help someone. By the way, nice looking Dodge

It's a step up from fabricating one especially for the price, it's some type of Vacuum Assembly, didn't pay any attention either. I throw it up when I see it again. Mopar Part No.: 5013679AA VAC LINE-A/C AND HEATER VACUUM HARNESS A/C And Heater Vacuum W/ PWR HEATED MIRRORS

I bought a selection of 4 elbows, popular brand but I can't think of it off hand. None of them worked, haven't been able to reach the parts department at Dodge but I'm dong a search now, thanks for the tip The rubber elbow 1/4" is not sold separately by Chrysler, it's an entire assembly from the Vacuum Pump to the wire harness holding the line in place at the rubber hood seal. Part Number and Made in Mexico is 55056421AA The picture is from Rock Auto $13.03 Dorman has a 1/4" elbow as well, Dorman, Part # 47092, Advance Auto is holding one for me now, about $3.50. Live and Learn it's listed for $15 on the Mopar Parts Online

I know I was assuming that who ever worked on it might have done this deliberately. I was telling my son about it and mentioned the place I took my truck and he told me that he used to take his trucks there for repairs. Funny thing is when they got a truck back from them there was always more issues to deal with. On the last one a little over a year ago when they cranked it something was rattling horribly, they got a floor jack under it and found the starter bolts were all backed out and the starter just hanging in place or just enough to work. What ever the job was it had nothing to do with the starter and how could all of the bolts back out at the same time. Maybe the owner doesn't know what's going on but somebody is messing with more than what the work order was written for. I plan on telling my friend I usually deal with what happened and maybe he should be more careful who he recommends to fill in for him. I usually don't think of things like this happening but right off the bat the line is completely out of sight instead of being close to the nipple it came out of, I had to reroute it back over to the Vacuum Pump fitting on top, makes me wonder. I thankful for all the help and suggestions that guided me to find the issue. One more question I have is where I can buy a replacement rubber 90 that attaches to the Vacuum Pump and the small plastic vacuum line. What will work and where to find it. Thanks

Let's leave the past alone, there might be a few other little evil ones trying a sales pitch on spark plugs and color TV Okay, I thought of this too but this guy beat me to it, here's the link to a YouTube Video that addresses your start issue with the Honda

Here's another one I found on eBay, SIMPLICITY, ALLIS CHALMERS TRACTOR ROPE START PULLEY 154384 *NOS PART* H-14 $27.00 I fell victim to similar traps but not for color TV viewing afterwards, I bet shows looked great in color, how long did the effects last? lol Vintage Genuine Kohler Engine Recoil Starter Rope Pulley 220377 $35.00

Good advice, I might not be in the ball park with what needs to be found. Most Honda engines bust right off but I'm sure there are some that you have to call dripley's dad over to have a talk with it. Are there any pictures that we can see what's going on

You all were right on the money, I got a flashlight and started at the Vacuum Pump then went up to the firewall and fuel filter area. Didn't see a thing, tried to look under the dash but I couldn't begin to get my fat head down there. Went back to the Vacuum Pump and this time noticed a small rubber 90 degree fitting that was open on the end. The line going to it was routed in a way that I couldn't see the end, somewhere under the battery. I had to pull it out and route it another way to mate up with the Vacuum Pump. Makes me wonder why in the world it would be like that. The rubber is rotten but still holding a vacuum. I need to replace it so tomorrow I'll start looking for another rubber 90, I'm not going to stick it to a buyer now that I've seen the condition. Many thanks for the help and advice.

I agree, you could do this and know it's safe to drive. I would shop around because some folks are way too high. Just saw what you said about the frame guy, I have seen frames for sale on eBay for around $800.00 in parts or salvage area. Shop around, there has to be a deal out there

I don't know if this would help or not but I began looking as soon as I saw your post. Thought about older outboard motors and found this on ebay: VINTAGE EVINRUDE MOTORS OUTBOARD BOAT MOTOR ROPE PULLEY COVER PLATE This is $40.00 but you can see from the design that with some tooling and material how you could take a 1/4" piece of plate turned on a lathe with 2 holes drilled apposing one another and finish slotting with a file, add spacers to under side to bring it up, weld it or bolt it to adapt to your engine and get a good pull rope with a wooden handle and you are on your way. Well this isn't much but I understand where your at. Maybe a piece or 3/4" material since you need an edge to make a groove for the rope. I wish I could help, I have a friend with a mill and lathe here in AL. You would have to design it to work on your engine. If you don't know that I don't make a lot of sense you will after reading this.

I guess I should start at the Vacuum Pump and chase the lines back to the Fuel Filter area like you are saying. Everything worked great prior to doing this. I hope it's an accident that caused the lines or what ever it is to lose Vacuum, I wasn't very happy with the owner and he made it clear he wasn't happy trying to start it back up. Thanks John, I know it's a goofy question or topic but I really appreciate some direction to go in. I'll let you all know what I find. Well I guess it could be an easy thing to pull loose, thank you DRipley for the reply, I'm going to start at the pump and work my way up to the firewall and so forth. Have a good day

I'll start there, is there any reason you can think of that it would be pulled off? It doesn't come into play with an oil change unless they thought it was a fuel line. It doesn't take much to start a 12v or 24v after the fuel filter is changed, I always primed it and cracked a few injector lines, never had a starting issue. I told this shop to call or even look it up on YouTube or Mopar Forum. I must have pissed them off to charge $40.00 with the oil and filters supplied. I'm getting too old for all of this. Appreciate your suggestion Royal Squire, I hope it's something simple.