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kzimmer last won the day on December 28 2017

kzimmer had the most liked content!

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    Regina, SK

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  1. Did I say you had to, and did I say I recommended it? No. I was just answering the question of why one would do that. Also, my rig wouldn't be down for a week. My rig would be down for 3-4 hours while I pop them on my bench with my cheapo eBay pop tester. We are in the 24 valve Dodge Cummins forum. They are all the same, and it does not depend on make/model. Who the hell has a new 24v Cummins truck? Again, I didn't recommend it. I explained why it's not a bad idea, and why one would be interested in doing this. Based on MY personal experience, and no one else's. I don't know, and I don't really care. Why don't you ask them for yourself if you have concerns? Again, being that we are in the 24 valve Dodge Cummins forum, I only speak for that truck, with experience from mine. I don't claim to be an expert, but to say every single injector is the same? That's just not a true statement. For example, what about the modern diesel injectors that share a common rail, with electronic solenoid control? I'm sorry to bust your balls here. But really. If someone wants to do EXTRA maintenance on they're machine to help improve everything they can, make things more efficient, predictable, and reliable? Instead of judging them, maybe pay attention and you might learn something new. If you don't want to take the extra step or precautions on your equipment? That's fine man. Nobody is judging you. Do what makes you happy.
  2. To prevent pop pressures dropping below the ideal, or your intended levels. I've found they drop fairly quickly, especially in the first 10,000 kms I think I lost close to 10 bar. One strategy is to pop them about 10 bar higher at initial install. When things wear in, the hope is that they will settle where you want. But they will still continue to drop over time.
  3. The voltage regulator for the alternator is in the PCM, not the ECM. My concern would be if the original problem with the voltage regulator has not been addressed, especially if that's how the ECM originally took on damage.
  4. Be careful increasing line pressure on what could be a tired stock trans. The 2nd gear band strut doesn't like extra pressure, and it will bend at some point.
  5. I wouldn't go to a dealer, any shop with the DRB tool can do it for you, assuming they have one and know how to use it. Any reliable and licensed shop with a good rep should have one.
  6. I like this rant. I think the people of Napa, or moreso their bean counters, should see this.
  7. Hmm... If you don't want it to downshift, you could wire in a torque converter clutch lockup switch. With the switch on, the trans won't downshift. And then you can just... You know... Press the skinny pedal down when you need more power. Lol.
  8. What kind of boost psi are you seeing during the ascent? Are you at 100% throttle? If so, I don't think anything you do in tuning will help a noticeable amount. If not, step on it and make it work!
  9. Sounds good, I know you guys will back up your products. I haven't contacted anyone yet, just haven't had spare time in the last couple of months. I appreciate you reaching out.
  10. You must still be high on pain killers if you're agreeing with me, lol.
  11. Since you have the turbo already, I say get the t3/t4 adapter and let er rip! Let us know how it is. Worst case scenario you have to pull it out and put the old one back in. I agree you may have issues, but you won't know how severe until you try.
  12. 4th gear and TCC lockup are not affected by TV cable. They are electronic. One wire to the trans is grounded to engage lockup, another wire is grounded to engage OD (4th). Here's some copied information from the FSM: " 3-4 UPSHIFT OCCURS IMMEDIATELY AFTER 2-3 SHIFT 1. Overdrive Solenoid Connector or Wiring Shorted. 1. Test connector and wiring for loose connections, shorts or ground and repair as needed. 2. TPS Malfunction. 2. Test TPS and replace as necessary. Check with DRB® scan tool. 3. PCM Malfunction. 3. Test PCM with DRB® scan tool and replace controller if faulty. 4. Overdrive Solenoid Malfunction. 4. Replace solenoid. 5. Valve Body Malfunction. 5. Remove, disassemble, clean and inspect valve body components. Make sure all valves and plugs slide freely in bores. Polish valves with crocus cloth if needed. "
  13. I don't remember noticing any signs of them going bad. The truck did sit for 6 months before I pulled the injectors though. I have a cheap tester off of eBay. Nothing fancy but it does the job. I replaced the gauge with a better one though.
  14. I'm running 7x.014 nozzles with a regular VP44, to the best of my knowledge, there's nothing wrong with that. Let me know what you come up with. I first put on these 7x.014 DSS (Diesel Speed Shop) injector nozzles when I built my truck up. They were always pretty dirty, but delivered. I took them out at some point because they were idling a bit rough and smokey. I bought my own pop tester, and it turns out pop pressure was all over the place. The shop that did them did a poor job matching them all up. I then put in some DAP 7x.013 nozzles. They were much cleaner and I liked them. I went to re-pop test them after about 7500 kms or so, and one or two are shot, they wont atomize (mist), they just pop and squirt. Very disappointing to say the least, I still need to talk to them about this. Recently I put the 7x.014 DSS nozzles back in, they pop tested well. But my EGT's are up about 200 degrees on the big end. Compounds seem to like them though. I'm trying to tune them for smoke, and one thing I noticed is that I could inject a lot more fuel at low psi to help with spool-up with the DAP nozzles, as compared to DSS. Sorry for the derail, I'm just curious to see what you decide on.
  15. That's probably the one and only benefit of being in a severe drought. Not many mosquitoes! But I think I'd rather have some rain and use some bug spray. We're in trouble here.
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