timsch

Thanks for that advice. I'll be removing the thermostat when I do the complete flush this weekend and will do the full fill before putting it back in.

Thanks for the pointers and assurances. i was driving at least 25 minutes before it dawned on me my mistake. It's amazing how efficient these Diesels are to not heat up any quicker than that. Any easy way to check the Check Gages light and chime?

A major short between the ears caused me to lose the majority of my coolant on my drive this morning. I pulled over after seeing mist coming from under the hood. Upper radiator hose was disconnected. My temperature gauge was reading just above the upper line on the sweep but not yet to the red. Engine sounded and performed fine up to me shutting it down. I added about 2 gallons of water back into the radiator and reconnected the hose and finished the trip without issue. Oil on the dipstick didn't look contaminated. I'm hopeful my engine survived my mistake with no ill effects. Is there anything on it that I should check at this point?

The only Rockauto option was out of stock, and searching that PN turned up nothing. Nothing on Geno's, so I concluded that it would be hard to find. Looking again this morning, I found one at Partsgeek for $40. That'll work. i'll probably try to solder weld the original just to work on a skill though. Might need it sometime.

I have a 2" crack in my washer fluid reservoir. Plastic weld repair is the way I'd like to go. I see info online about techniques, but thought I should check here for actual experience welding these since I'm having trouble finding replacement reservoirs and I may only get one shot at the repair. Have any of you successfully repaired a crack on this reservoir? Any tips if so? thanks.

You and me both. No fun, and I could have easily never seen it. I'm guessing this is the culprit behind the two fuel pumps that the PO had put in. I'm wondering how something like this could be found if it hadn't caught my eye?

In my picture above, the problem was the bottom right, which according to the above, would be pin #7

A few days ago I disconnected the harness connection to the VP44 to clean the silicon based dielectric grease and redo it with Motocraft XG-12, which I read was more appropriate for harness connections. I noticed one of the female connectors was sprung more than the others, and appeared to have some corrosion. I sprayed the connectors with Deoxit D5 and ran a brush for cleaning paint guns that was a good fit through them. I then sharpened a pick to be able to get in and pry the sprung connector back together and pushed some 30ga bare wire down into the slight gap between the OD of that connector and the plastic, which held it in place pretty well. Put it all back together. Two short test drives and one longer one today on the highway, getting on it pretty good, one time floored, and it didn't miss at all. Looks like that connector may well have been it the whole time. Sure hope so.... Before pic:

Yes, that's me giving it the throttle. I can ease it up to speed, but any greater acceleration and it starts cutting or bucking. The more throttle, the more likely it's bucking. And it's consistent now. Thanks for sticking with me John. Edit: One thing I keep going back to in my mind is that the PO said he'd replaced the fuel pump a couple of times. So, a couple of possibilities: either something in my system may killing these pumps, or I'm dealing with a reman pump of not good quality that's failing. I recall reading on the forums that there are recommended rebuilders and you don't want to go cheap on that.

No progress yet. Here's a video showing minor sputtering around 10-13 sec, and then major from 20-25 sec. The shaking is just from the miss. Typical road bumps all other times. Log at the same time showed no red flags at those events. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1E14BZAQJ3RQUKvTiRCBajmeTOiAcBrsw/view?usp=sharing

Here are the data logging options for the VP44 on my AutoEnginuity program. Here are more:

No apologies needed. I appreciate your help. It's not urgent, as this is not a truck I rely upon now.

Looks like I'm out of luck for now getting a comparison VP44 log. Then I need to do more focused troubleshooting on the electronics between battery and IP. To get better access, I'd like to remove the original fuel filter housing. The PO bypassed it using the FASS, but left it mounted so that the wiring plugs could still be plugged in. Any problem running with these plugs dangling?

I have a good mechanic friend who has a 12V 5.9 - so close, yet so far.... I do have a co-worker with a Gen3 which should be the same IIRC. He'd probably be willing to let me plug in and take a similar log. Thanks for the suggestion. That 1st friend is a pro, so has the good equipment. I'm close to asking him to plug his in and see if the results are the same. My $400 setup may be lacking being consumer grade. The bottom horizontal scale is the number of lines done during the log. Looking at the CSV file (attached)ueoa, a read is done every 180 milliseconds, and with 4 datapoints captured, each line is ~750 milliseconds. When it cuts out, it feels stronger than just one misfiring cylinder. It's a pretty decent stumble, but this is my 1st Cummins (or large diesel even), so I'm not sure what a single cylinder misfire feels like compared to all dropping out. I'd guess more the latter. When I'm driving normally and it stumbles, I ease off to try to get it to stop immediately. Last night, I was powering through them for logging purposes hoping to make a dramatic chart and was a little surprised that it didn't really bog down on me, but rather climbed through them. Dodge-Cummins-2000-December 04 2025.csv

Here is a log I ran tonight. I had several accelerations where it cut out, some multiple times. Every significant acceleration had cutouts. Some patterns here, but not 100% consistency. Battery voltage @ pump has improved, but still has drops; they don't match up with the cutouts though.