Ironforger

Thanks for the info guys.Appreciate the comparison. Sounds like I'm 3.55 after all. I'm liking the gear spread, seems like there is a good choice for everything except that I won't be going much above 70 mph when towing (I guess I shouldn't be going that fast when towing anyway! (and I will never use 6th for towing)).Regardless, I'd sure like to test drive a 6 speed with 4.11's just to see the difference!On a similar note, my first gen cummins w250 has a 5 speed getrag. I think 4th gear is 1.0 ratio? Regardless, I cannot drive around town /35 mph in 4th on that truck. Lugging big time.thanks

02 3500 qc 6 speed dana 80.The factory detail sheet for my truck says my dana 80 is 3.55. In 5th gear truck maxes out at the tach redline just above 70 mph. I havent yet tried max top speed in 6th gear.Question for you guys running a 6 speed with 4.11's. What is your top speed in 5th gear? I'm actually curious if previous owners may have swapped in 4.11 gears on my axle. I've never driven both ratios side by side so I'm curious to know the actual difference.Or how about anyone running a confirmed 3.55? Tops speed in 5th?For one thing it's amazing to me that I can putz around town doing 35mph in 5th gear no problem without lugging/shuddering.Thanks

Thanks for the detail & great idea putting a valve on the Tee!

Maybe it was a change added in 2002? The hose is short on mine, only about 2" long with a couple of factory looking squeezie-spring style clamps. I havent taken mine apart yet but I guess if there is a factory type hose barb/bump on the end of the steel lines to hold the hose on, well that could be tell tale factory. Regardless, it sure looks like the perfect place to insert a Tee with a npt fitting to hook up a pressure guage. It's a really small section though and I'm thinking I'll have to cut it some to fit a decent Tee. Did you put a Tee in there dripley?

Ok, cool. I see a small section of rubber hose in the supply line - just above the power steering cap, think I'll put the tee there. Is that rubber hose factory setup? Or is it possible someone previously cut the steel supply line? How was it on your truck? Thanks

Just wondering where the best place would be to put a tee inline to hook up a fuel pressure gauge. I'll be ordering the fuel boss as soon as glacier re-stocks them.It would seem to me that the true indicator of fuel pressure would be inline post filter before the VP.Opinions?Thanks

Greatly appreciate the info. It's a no-brainer. I'm getting the fuel boss mechanical pump and the price is right! I just contacted glacier diesel, they will be back in stock sometime around the end of next week.I will post install updates here once I receive it.Thanks again for the great response and info.

Wow lots of thumbs up for fuel boss. Awesome response. Thanks for the feedback!Is the fuel boss specifically mechanical? Or do they offer an elec version too? I'll look into it. I like the idea of a mechanical pump as long as it doesnt wipe me out $$.

Ok, So I bought this 02 6 speed quad cab dually back in april. No body on the back, getting ready to put on a nice utility body. Been doing lots of fix-up, new brakes/calipers/rotors/wheel bearings/dana 80 clutch re-stack/u joints/air bags/ etc etcSo, soon will be ready to put the body on but first want to do the lift pump since right now my tank is easily accessible.I've researched and asked this question over at the cumminsforum.com But there are sooooo many different reccomendations/types/styles/price ranges of lift pumps. It's confusing man! :think:I just want the simplest & most reliable. For now I'm happy with the factory power, maybe more power upgrades in the future but nothing extreme.Any reccomendations? Best lift pump/most reliable/easiest to install and maintain and best bang for the buck?Thanks!

There is a little schrader like valve on the side of the VP. It's real easy to bleed it. Just bump the key, fuel pump runs for like 20 seconds and while the fuel pump is running push the schrader and pfffffft! until all the air is out. Way simple. After changing the filter It's real simple to bleed both the fuel cannister and VP44 at the same time. Here is a good video that shows exactly how to do it, takes only 5 minutes:

2002 3500 dually 6 speed 200k. Bought this truck late spring, finally getting around to fixing things. Needs new rear rotors. Went to take the rear wheels off, passenger side came off fine. However the Drivers side inner wheel is stuck solid! Looking like some rust in there where the wheel mates against the hub. Dammit! :banghead: I tried everything, doused it with WD40, beat the tire (not the rim) with a hammer, won't budge. Kicked things up a notch and took the truck off jack stands & put the weight of the truck on the wheel & drove it back & forth in my concrete driveway. Nothing! Chirpped and spun the tires on the driveway. Still won't budge! (At least I know my dana 80 clutches are working as both sides were spinning!) As a last resort I yelled at my neighbor and told him his wife is fat, to which he agreed and laughed. Still didnt help my wheel! It's stuck solid. Thinking I'll get a huge sledge hammer & see how that goes. That's all I can think of. Any suggestions greatly appreciated!Thanks

Is there something different about the 2nd gen 24 valve dowel pin? On my first gen I first hammered the the dowel pin in with a straight punch, then peened the curcumfrence with a center punch. No way it's ever comming out. I dont know understand why a kit is avail unless there is something different about the 2nd gens.

If it's at a high point in the fuel system doesn't matter. With the lift pump running, (bump the starter for a second) all air will expel from the filter canister AND the VP via the schrader on the side of the VP simply because the fuel is being forced by the lift pump. The whole deal only takes a few minutes. Couldn't be any simpler. There really is no need for a bleeder on the fuel cannister cap. The bleeder on the VP will purge air from the fuel cannister and VP. Here is a vid demonstrating this. Made by a guy in hawaii:

Great thread. I'll be upgrading my lift pump in the near future & appreciate all the info mentioned here.PS , has the OP decided on which kit to purchase? Still thinking about it?

There are a few guys in south jersey running around with big dual stacks. It looks rediculously phalic. I suspect they are big boys whom are lacking in other certain areas.

Subscribed. Good info.I'll be updating my lift pump soon, still havent decided on Air dog or Fass so for now informative threads like this are much appreciated.

Splitting the frame ahead of the axle and lengthening. CTA = Cab to Axle measurement. The 02 3500 quad cab long bed measures 56.5" actual (rounded off to 60" ) from back of the cab to the center of the axle. (CTA). Basically I'm fabricating the truck to be a cab chassis with an 84" CTA. I would die to purchase a factory cab chassis 02 3500 6 speed quad cab dually with an 84" CTA. Searched forever, could not find. But I'm lucky I found my good condition no rust 02 3500 6 speed dana 80 dually quad cab so I'm going to build my own 84" CTA. The factory cab chassis are nice in that they have straight rails but I'll make good with what I got. It would be an error to exend the frame behind the axle unless you are entering a wheelie contest lol

Damn 1 oz per gallon sounds rich actually. Yea I use the wall-of-china mart outboard tc3w ashless stuff too. typically 160z per tankful on my fat 35 gallon tank. works out to a lil less than 1/2oz per gal.I guess I'm not the only one buying this stuff as even in the middle of winter they are sometimes out of stock. Lots of guys running outboard motors in mid winter? doubt it lol

Is it necessary? Isnt there a schrader bleeder on the side of your VP44? I know mine has one. Bleeding the fuel filter canister and VP44 is very simple. Bump the key, lift pump comes on for 30 sec, push the scrader pfffffft! air shoots out then fuel and you are good to go

I'm a pro welder Looking to extend my 2002 3500 dually from 60" (56"actual) to 84" so I can put a 10' morgan dry cargo van body on it.Frame questions: To do this I'll need extra frame rail material which I'm hoping to rape from another salvage frame.My question is this:Are the 2500 frames the same as the 3500 frames the same material thickness, bolt holes & dimensions etc? I already know length variables exist depending on quad cab short bed etc. Just wondering about all the mounting holes for the axle, & material thickness etc. Thanks

What brand are your airbags?My girlfreinds bags are deflated 44's

I say go with a single side stack.

I would not take our rotors or drums to most auto shops. Most brake cutting machines at auto stores suck and are operated by non-mechanics or knuckleheads working the counter. I agree with a previous poster, either get new high quality rotors or take them to a reputable brake shop. Grinding is the best however the thickness first must be measured. To thin = new rotors needed no question. The problem with lathe style cutters is the cutting tool tends to walk over any variables without cutting true. Grinding does not do this. The pulsing sensation you are feeling is due to face runout. Basically the thickness is variable (a few thousandths is enough to cause the issue) through the circumfrance (like a warped record, but it's to slight to see with the naked eye). PS when it comes to brake parts, don't be looking for bargains. Get the best top of the line stuff from NAPA etc. Make sure (you have to ask) that it's not made in china. And don't bother with slotted or dimpled rotors. No real tangible improvement. Yea, they look neet and you might get a few high fives from your buddies but realistically the bang is not worth the buck and grooves/slots = less braking surface area. Another point to ponder: Low quality rotors and drums are often known to be out of balance enough to notice vibrations at high speeds. This sometimes happens with higher quality parts too. I ALWAYS get my drums and rotors balanced.

I recently bought an 02 3500. It has no body. Previous owner had a welding rig body which he took off and in doing so cut all the tail/stop/turn/reverse lighting wiring.Does anyone know where I can find rear light wiring diagram so I can figure out which wires are what so I can:banghead: wire up some new lights?Thanks!