Olaus

wow, There really was a curse! I had a nv4500 sieze up about an hour from home last Sunday. Hauling a trailer also helping a buddy grab a car he was working on. we were cruising down I25 and motor died and it started rattling and wouldn't go back into any gear while we were rolling. got it stopped and the motor died as soon as you let out the clutch, even in neutral. once I got the tranny out it turned out the rear seal on the tranny had gone out and leaked all the fluid into the t-case. burned up some bearing because the input shaft on the trans wouldn't turn. lesson learned don't put silicone in between the tranmission and tcase so you know if you're leaking fluid-

that's exactly the one thanks dude!

Hey guys, just replaced the tappet cover gasket on my '01 and it started up fine but I have no throttle response at all. I just unplugged the batteries to try the apps reset but curious if maybe I missed a connection somewhere? has anyone had this problem before? thanks!

OK guys so 1st of all don't go to central motive for a test and expect them to be straight up. They( a guy named Craig)told me I needed a new pump and tried to sell me one but luckily I got the existing one warrantied, installed the fresh one and lo and behold l it all does the same gd thing- BLACK SMOKE, NO START I had someone look at the test print off from the old pump after and they said it looked probably fine. Beware central motive. I'm trying injectors next. .... I need to get this out of the shop so I can fix the tappet cover leak on my 01... Cummins is a 4 letter word at my house at the moment

Hey guys, thanks for all the replys! I have done all the blue chip tests except the hot wire. When we cracked the injectors fuel was coming out when just cracked but it shot out good when I took the nut all the way out. We've checked filters and flow to the pump that's all good. Someone i talked to mentioned a return line banjo and the Pump needing back pressure? At this point I'm thinking I'll drop the $260... ugh

Hi, I've been having trouble with my 02 3500- it won't start! it'll turn over and occasionally kick once or twice but won't go- a couple of weeks ago my fuel gelled and I put in some Diesel911 to try to move it along, it started and ran for like 60 seconds, then quit- we drained out the old diesel and put in fresh, it's got 15lbs of fuel at the vp44- we put in a new cam sensor b/c the cam and pump weren't quite in synch, checked with a solus programmer- values all read ok but it won't run or throw any codes. I took out the injection pump thinking I may have sheared the key, its not sheared but it is pretty beat up- does this mean that the pump might be bad? Central motive is about a 40 minute drive and they quoted me $260 to test the pump on their bench. Or should I throw a fresh key in and put it all back together to see if it runs and save some coin? does anyone have any input?

i looked at that "heavier duty 16352rs and it is quite a bit smaller od than the one that I pulled out of my flywheel. it looks like the ID on the 1635 2rs will fit directly on the pilot shaft, where as the bearing I have appears to need a new bushing. this is all very confusing.

So I am changing a clutch on my 2001 5 spd 4wd and the old pilot bushing failed and exploded which caused the clutch to fail. the issue I am having is that my flywheel has a 6205nse c3 bearing machined into it, which has a 0.9525" (25mm) id and the needle bearing that came with my new clutch has a 1.0025 od, doesn't seem to want to go- also the bushing that exploded was just a brass bushing and not a needle bearing. the guys at Napa who are usually pretty good are stumped and say they haven't seen this application on this truck before. this suckscan anyone help?

sorry on reading my original post it was not clear as glass. once the engine reaches operating temperature the engine will cut in and out. giving a few seconds of power and then cutting out for 5-10 seconds. then giving full power for a few seconds again. I drove it for a while today and after 20-30 minute of low speed hauling (pulled an f250 on a trailer about 5 miles at 20 mph) it quit cutting out and ran fine for the 20 minute ride home.. I did notice today that when its cutting out if you let in the clutch and keep your foot on the skinny pedal it continues to cut out for a few seconds and then will rev all the way, doesn't seem to cut out until it gets a load on again. - - - Updated - - - I don't have a permanent fuel pressure gauge but I have hooked up gauges to it and it always reads over 10 psi, idle and wot under load.

Hey guys! I've been lurking around this site for a while. I've gotten lots of valuable info for keeping my trucks going. I have a 2001 2500 that has been giving me issues for a while(2 years now)- hopefully I can find some knowledge here. the truck runs fine when its cold, as it heats up the power will cut out, then come back. I have taken it to a couple of mechanics and they haven't been able to figure out the problem.we ran it one day with the Modus attached- TPS is fine, CPS is fine, only thing we could see funny was that as it was cutting out/ powering up the Calculated load value was jumping from 0% to 100%. anyone know how the computer calculates the load value?. bad wire? bad sensor? no Check Engine Light. its been frustrating to say the least.thanksnick